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I drive an arctic cat M7000, and mine actually made a hole in the chaincase lid as pictured UP in the thread. The first thing that happened was that the speedometer sensor fell off. When i was going to put it in place i noticed the chaincase lid had a hole. Ive Just recieved my New chaincase...
Spoke with a few dealers and turns out its a rather known issue that the electrical connectors from the MCX ECU box and the stock connector can sometimes get a bit loose. So i unplugged the connectors and plugged them back in, and now it runs fine.
Hi, and thanks for your reply :)
Yes i can hear the fuel pump engaging when i turn the ignition on. Tried flipping the kill switch while cranking the engine aswell.
Hey, so im having an issue with my m7000 with an MCX 190hp turbo kit. (Same as viper mtx, hence the title)
Here goes;
Friday: sled is running fine, drove about 30km with a few stops where i shut the engine off, and one time it shut itself off while idling. But it started right up again, drove...
Fixed some of the exhaust leak with some heat-bandage stuff so the rpm isnt flickering too noticeably while driving.
But what i did notice is that if im driving and i let go of the throttle, the rpm will fall all the way down to 1100 rpm before going back up to the normal idle at 1500rpm...
Tried fixing my exhaust leak with some heat bandage stuff between the muffler and the turbo. Im not noticing that much rpm fluctuation while driving now.
But what i do notice is that when im driving and if i let go of the throttle, the rpm will drop all the way to 1100rpm. Wonder what it is...
Im having a similar issue with my mcx 190 kit on my M7000. When doing high rpm it works great, but when driving really slow, the rpm will flicker even though im keeping the same throttle position.
I know on my sled there is some exhaust leaking between the muffler and turbo, because mcx doesnt...
Did you figure out the issu? I have recently installd mcx turbo on my m7000. Its working good when doing high rpm, but when driving slowly the rpm seems to flicker, even though im keeping the throttle position the same.
Tried driving it some more today finally. It seems to work very well when driving 40km/h. But it is having difficulties maintaining the same rpm when driving slowly. Im keeping the throttle position the same, but the rpm flickers on its own. Wonder what could be causing that?
The gap is so big you can see it when you have tightened the bolts, a few mm i suppose. No im not using an AFR gauge, the MCX ecu comes mapped specific to viper engine, so there should be no _need_ for afr or boost gauge, but ofc it can be handy :)
Okey, might have to make myself a gasket from steel or copper. Does my exhaust theory seem to fit the idling issue? It also doesnt run very smooth at very low speed, like when your driving and u almost stop, and then want to rev up again. This could ofc also be because at lower speeds not much...
Ok, idling issues solved. Turns out the problem was a misplaced hose from the plenum to the baro sensor as ive showed in the pic above. As for the oil leak, it seems there wasnt any leak, cause i had some oil containers close to the snowmobile. The reason for the low oil in oil tank must have...
Thank you for the replies btw :)
Yea, ive uploaded a picture. Nr 1 is the hose where we originally connected the baro hose with a T split. Nr 2 is the manifold intake pressure? There is nothing connected to this nipple now. And the baro pressure is where the pic says it is.
We have now...
I might have, not sure yet. After going thoroughly through the vacuum hoses and such. We figured out they were all according to MCX plans. Except the baro pressure hose from plenum to the baro sensor, we had connected it to a wrong hose and not the nipple below the baro pressure sensor. This...
Hi! I am having similar issues after installing MCX 190 kit to my M7000. I purchased a used kit, and after install the sled wont idle properly. I have to pump the throttle a little to keep it going, if not it will shut down. Just did a little test run, did not rev it hard - but it didn't seem to...
Had the same issue. If you mean left/right slack. There is a nut at the bottom of the steering post assembly that has to be tightened. Also, the steering rod is connected to a plate, and the plate is connected to the frame with aluminum pop rivets (behind the front shock on muffler side). On...
Yea, i have the tunnel mounting in that position now. Was riding today with my GF and had 150+ PSI (my pump only goes to 150 on the numbers), and the rear shock was bottoming, and we were not going fast on the bunps. We are probably about 260 punds (130kg) together. And the shock has just been...
Ive been using about 150 PSI in the rear shock. But with the new front shock spring beeing stiffer i have reduced PSI on rear shock to about 130 PSI i believe.
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