07 nytro questions.

[Persingc]

First sled ive ever touched so be easy... Im working on what I believe to be an 07 nytro. Was running when parked 5+ years ago. So I cleaned the carbs, changed the oil, and checked gear oil.

First question are the intake boots known on these to corrode and the rubber separate from the metal and need replaced? I cleaned the crap out of them separated the metal and rubber and reassembled but they just seem like there is alot of movement in them with the carbs attached.

2nd. I can't keep it running more than a few seconds without it flooding. Can someone confirm that 16mm is the float height? Ive read about a tors system could this be causing the problem since its missing the throttle cable?

Its 80° here is that a possible problem?

Sorry for so many questions. I'm a newb on sleds.

 

[maim]

post a pic of the sled please.

carb boots should not come apart at all, so yours are junk.

temp should not be a problem as long as the running board coolers are still at ambient temp.

as to the flooding, a guy last season with a carbed vector (same engine as carb nitro) had a problem with his fuel pumps. his diaprams where split and it would flood out like yours is. i would try it with fuel hanging in a bottle above it with the fuel pumps disconnected and see if it runs that way.

 

[Persingc]

Thank you for the response. Ill get a pic tomorrow. The more tinkering the better it is getting I can get it to idle and take fuel and finally restart when i shut it off. 1/8 choke starting max or it floods. Im still waiting on the throttle cable and in hoping that fixes the issue I now have of hanging high idle when I rev and let off could be a vac leak from those intake boots i'm thinking though.

 

[Persingc]

Per your request.

 

[thor452]

very fussy when starting if you don't do it right it will flood and my require plugs to be changed. Great sled very good on gas but start it and let it warm up take choke off as soon as you can let it warm up fully before shutting down. the only other problem we ever had with the one we have is fuel pumps keep going out every other year. the machine will no longer be able to go over 75-80 mph when it used to go 100 its time to change the again.

 

[Persingc]

What is the proper starting procedure? Seriously 80+ mph? I never realized a snowmobile was that fast.

 

[maim]

most of the vectors and rage sleds with the same motor as yours hit 90mph consistantly. i have a slow apex xtx as it is a consistant 100mph as i have clutched for how i ride. there are others that push 110-120 mph in the right conditions.

proper starting on a carbed sled is usually full choke while cranking. once it starts, slowly decrease the amount of choke while keeping the sled running. a usual sign that it needs the choke turned off while 1/2 on or so is it will increase in rpms.

hanging idle is most likely the carb boots being bad and causing a vaccume leak.

check the oil for gas contamination and replace the plugs or you need to burn off all the gas in your current set. i usually throw them in the bbq with it set on high for 1/2hr or leave them on the top of the wood stove when i am using it to get rid of the fouling.

 

[Persingc]

I really appreciate all of the input from you all. Im fixing this up for my brother. I rev'd it up to about 4k and the track never moved. What should I look for on the clutch and belt? With all of the corrosion ive found on the engine I'm afraid it might be stuck. While running if I change between forward or reverse the brake rotor rotates a quarter turn or so. Dont know if it should be doing that...

 

[maim]

the 1/4 turn for reverse is normal for that sled. all our delta box sleds have that same amount of play (rx1, apex, rs venture).

the belt on that should be an 8dn belt. if the sled has a lot of corrosion, you will need to pull the primary apart and the secondary as that can freeze the bushings in the clutches to the shafts. primary can be dome on the motor if you do not have a clutch puller. just let all the small bolts off evenly with the main bolt out and reinstall the same way one all is cleaned. a plastic scotch brite pad and brake kleen should get the job done. reassembly should be dry with no lube.

i do recomend pulling the secondary right off and doing it on the bench as the jackshaft and speedo bearings are easyer to clean and repack with it out of the way.

 

[Persingc]

I took your advice and purchased intake boots from a low mile sled. I've looked all over for a repair manual and I've found posts refering to other post but never found the pdf. I'm mainly wanting the torque spec for the primary and secondary as ive never touched a belt drive setup. I'm familiar with cable operated clutches on atvs.

 

[thor452]

If you join the site as a VIP you have access to all the service manuals for download in VIP section. I just torque them to tight and don't worry about it. I'm sure some will cringe about that.

 

[maim]

for primary clutch bolt 85 ft/lb to set it on the taper, then loosen it and retorque to 43 ft/lb. the 6 cover bolts on the primary torque to 10 ft/lb. all the set screws for the pins (if there) get a spot of lock tight upon re assembly.

for the secondary, the big bolt torques to 46 ft/lb. the helix bolts torque to 17 ft/lb.

 

[Persingc]

Awesome! Thank you Maim!

 

[Persingc]

I thought i read about putting the sled on its side in the owners manual for some maintenance. When would you want to do that and how long on its side is to long?

 

[Persingc]

So the "ears" with tge set screws are all free but the rusted bushing in the pic are stuck on 2 of the 3. I also can't get the center piece off that they bolt onto. Any tips? That cast alum doesnt look like it will hold up well to a hammer