theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
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theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
I checked voltage at the jumper leads, 12.6v static & 19.25v idling.
Doesn't that running voltage seem very excessive??
Doesn't that running voltage seem very excessive??
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check the grounds and try adding one from battery to the frame. it is old enough that the existing one might be bad.
that is way to high. might need a voltage regulator. should be under 15v when running.
that is way to high. might need a voltage regulator. should be under 15v when running.
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
Ok, so in your opinion, would a bad voltage regulator cause a random shut off like that, and or temporarily kill the grip warmers?
Thanks for the help. I'll start with a new ground strap and checking other grounds.
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it might. might be a saftey in the ecu to protect itself from voltage spikes. idk for sure as this is the 1st i have heard of it.
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
It's all too coincidental that the 1st time was the exact moment I dimmed the headlight.
However, neither time was there any warning. Not the slightest misfire or lighting flicker, just instant dead.
However, neither time was there any warning. Not the slightest misfire or lighting flicker, just instant dead.
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the dimming of the light might have unloaded the system enough to spike it for the shutdown spike the 1st time. the lack of load from the hand warmers might have been enough for the 2nd one.
electrical can be weird some times.
electrical can be weird some times.
74Nitro
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What battery r you using?
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
Honestly, I don't know what's in there, but I'll have a look see tomorrow when I get a chance to work on it looking at grounds closely.
The excessive voltage at idle is a huge red flag.
Why do you ask about the type of battery?
74Nitro
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One time I ordered the cheaper kimpex brand battery for a vstar 1100 motorcycle only because they had no stock on the YUASA brand.
The owner called me a few days later said the bike had blown all the lights.
I put volt meter on and saw 17 volts.
However it wasn't the regulator.
It was the crappy battery.
The owner called me a few days later said the bike had blown all the lights.
I put volt meter on and saw 17 volts.
However it wasn't the regulator.
It was the crappy battery.
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
Wow, ok.
Well, again I'll get a look at things later tomorrow when I get some time.
I'll get the battery load tested too while I'm at it.
Thanks for the help thus far you two!!!
Well, again I'll get a look at things later tomorrow when I get some time.
I'll get the battery load tested too while I'm at it.
Thanks for the help thus far you two!!!
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
Slight update.
I didn't get a chance to get battery load tested, but it is a Yuasa, so a "good" brand.
Next, I checked the voltage directly at the battery. It was bouncing around from 14-mid 17s.
Next I was grabbing wiring harnesses and the ground block that's taped up along the frame by the primary clutch, was HOT.
Any suggestions beyond still a bad regulator??
I didn't get a chance to get battery load tested, but it is a Yuasa, so a "good" brand.
Next, I checked the voltage directly at the battery. It was bouncing around from 14-mid 17s.
Next I was grabbing wiring harnesses and the ground block that's taped up along the frame by the primary clutch, was HOT.
Any suggestions beyond still a bad regulator??
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fix that ground block as heat is bad in wiring. might be the problem.
74Nitro
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Ya, probably not a battery issue then. YUASA are good.
TC Rides
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This is highly coincidental, but what you described is EXACTLY the behavior I encountered a week ago. In the engine compartment (mine is 07 Apex GT) on the left side (left if you are on the sled) there is a ground block (as you described as I just reread your update). It is encased in the wire harness, and is 6 ground wires that come together for connection. Mine was all melted, and one wire was mediocre. I cut the wires, removed the 2 " section of wire that was suspect, then spliced & soldered it all back together.
I was able to diagnose because I had lights but no crank so a friend (Rock of RoczToyz.com actually) held the key to start and I tapped on the connector (that he told me about, I didn't know either). I actually wrote this up up earlier today and included pics that you can find in the Electrical section of the forum.
Open that harness and check it out. Mine was very hot also. I hope this helps. Ping me if I can add any info.
-TC Rides
I was able to diagnose because I had lights but no crank so a friend (Rock of RoczToyz.com actually) held the key to start and I tapped on the connector (that he told me about, I didn't know either). I actually wrote this up up earlier today and included pics that you can find in the Electrical section of the forum.
Open that harness and check it out. Mine was very hot also. I hope this helps. Ping me if I can add any info.
-TC Rides
