Nytro SE Fox Shocks : Anybody have some good settings for hard tight cornering?
SpecRTX
Expert
I'm 230 lbs and I put pilots on my SE. I have all the rebounds set in the middle. Front floats at 60 lbs with 1 (very soft) click of compression. Center shock preload is very soft (maybe one or two thread showing on adjuster nut) 2 clicks of compression (very soft). Rear shock is set in middle for preload, high speed setting is set firm (forgot how many clicks) and slow speed setting is 2 clicks (again, very soft). Also, limiters are in stock setting.
With this set up, my sled rails without push. Hope this helps.
With this set up, my sled rails without push. Hope this helps.
Ya. I was thinking of adding some pilots also. They have some really good reviews. I have'nt heard much good about the stock nytro skis.
You run your shocks at 60. It have run them low and built my way up to 110 and will try even higher. The lower the settings the more I would get ski lift around hard corners and thats what I am trying my hardest to avoid. Everything else I got set a stock. I did add some 6 inch carbides and run 144 studs up the middle.
You run your shocks at 60. It have run them low and built my way up to 110 and will try even higher. The lower the settings the more I would get ski lift around hard corners and thats what I am trying my hardest to avoid. Everything else I got set a stock. I did add some 6 inch carbides and run 144 studs up the middle.
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
I started at 50 lbs but soon realized that I cold bottom out too easy, even at full hard comp. So I began increasing the pressure, currently I'm at about 90 psi with the comp 6 clicks hard from middle, and rebound 2 clicks faster than middle. Seems to work well although I should also state I have the front limiter pulled up one with a half inch of preload on the front spring and I'm using Curve XS skis with a full 7.5" shaper carbide.
There was a post in the sticky that Grim started which has a few setups for 08' and 09's. I'm not sure how to add to the list so I haven't figured I would send out a final setting/s once the year is up.
There was a post in the sticky that Grim started which has a few setups for 08' and 09's. I'm not sure how to add to the list so I haven't figured I would send out a final setting/s once the year is up.
jedwards89
Expert
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IF you are just talking about the front. I have 65 psi in the floats with 13 clicks out for compression an 8 clicks out for dampening. I also pulled the rear limiter down one hole to take some ski pressure off. I have curve skis on it. I like the way it corners, not too much lift if any and it will soak up everything from stutters to moguls. Still playing with the back settings. That will take me a bit longer to figure out.
You guys seem focused on bump settings, but where I ride its mostly smooth and fast. My goal is to set the Nytro to corner as hard as possible with minimal ski lift. Any advise on that? Thanks for the replies
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
If you don't want ski lift than you need to add air pressure. Rebound and compression adjustments will do nothing for ski lift on smooth trails.
Is there anythings I could do to the rear suspension or with the limiter straps that will hold the skis down or is it only a front suspension issue?
SnowLurk said:
I put in Arctic Cat Coupler blocks (they were a cheaper alternative to experiment with...Ulmer has a nicer set.) and it really helped the ski lift in the tight twisties. Problem is it's reduced my rear travel too much. Our trails here in CNY/Tug Hill are rarely smooth so I am going to take the blocks out and pull the rear strap down to control transfer but still utilize the full compression stroke on the skid. Took me a bit to understand, but alot of the handling ills of the Nytro come from the huge weight transfer from back to front and so forth. Hope this helps.
Kråkan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Almost entirely rear suspension issue if you are talking about skilift at trottle..... Front shocks should be set up after you have the rear as you want it... You could get adjustable transferblocks fron Ulmer, and tighten the front limiterstrap to hold the skis down on acceleration. If you are talking about "inner skilift" that is another thing...
Nikolai a harder low speed dampening will make the sled corner flatter since it is harder to compress the shock at low pistonspeeds (tilting the sled is a LOW speed thing).... Imo the air pressure should be set for proper set in and then the rest is dampening adjustments. And since the "compression" adjustments on the Float X is mainly changing the lowspeed dampening, tightening that knob should equal flatter cornering... Same as more low speed in the rear shock will decrease the skilift at acceleretion. Not much but it will... And running high airpressure is not needed if you are not going for jumps like Nikolai... Total travel in the front is app 21 cm. So the set in should be at 7cm = just under 3" sitting on the sled... Lift the front till it is at highest and still toughing the ground and meassure. Sit on the sled and get some one to measure again and the difference should be 3"...
Nikolai a harder low speed dampening will make the sled corner flatter since it is harder to compress the shock at low pistonspeeds (tilting the sled is a LOW speed thing).... Imo the air pressure should be set for proper set in and then the rest is dampening adjustments. And since the "compression" adjustments on the Float X is mainly changing the lowspeed dampening, tightening that knob should equal flatter cornering... Same as more low speed in the rear shock will decrease the skilift at acceleretion. Not much but it will... And running high airpressure is not needed if you are not going for jumps like Nikolai... Total travel in the front is app 21 cm. So the set in should be at 7cm = just under 3" sitting on the sled... Lift the front till it is at highest and still toughing the ground and meassure. Sit on the sled and get some one to measure again and the difference should be 3"...
Kråkan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
nytroguy said:
That is incorrect. Tightening the limiterstraps will decrease travel since the skid can not rice as much as before tightening..
Adjusting the blocks will NOT decrease travel but when you have a thicker block the front arm will help the rear arm alot faster and that will make for a harsher ride since BOTH shocks work together alot faster in the travel. When using thicker blocks you should adjust your shocks so they are softer!! and increase rebound to prevent kicks... When adjusting my blocks to couple faster the ride becomes to harsh and it almost feels like I am bottoming out and it will kick back alot more, that is why I run them on stock setting....
Inner ski lift is my problem. The more air I add, the less lift. I have increased the pressure to 110. Not sure if I am technical enough to understand your reply so please correct me If I am way off.... I should make the rebound slower and rear adjustments will have less effect on inner ski lift?
Kråkan said:
I took SnowLurk concern as "inside ski lift" aka -rolling off throttle and turning in, trying to get back to throttle, but the sled is bicycling too much.
And trust me the coupler blocks took travel out...when it couples there's nothing left...I weight 300lbs and ride like a jerk in the bumps...Now my shock are totally stock other than clicker adjustments & they are shot to hell so I hope after Hygear trailpro's my shiz for next season I can get rid of the blocks all together and still corner.
Kråkan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
When it couples there is still all the rest of the travel left. You just do not have enough force to compress the skid any more.
Regarding inside skilift, have you tried braking before the turn and accelerate trough the turn?
Regarding inside skilift, have you tried braking before the turn and accelerate trough the turn?
Kråkan said:
Depends on the conditions and how tight together the turns are...the engine breaking that the 4 stroke provides usually negates the need for the brakes because the weight has already transferred helping to set the front end turn in. Problem with the Nytro for me is it transfers too much weight forward. I am planning to revalve etc. w/ Hygears help.
