mmmvines
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Ran fine when put away, not not starting, will start if a spray gas in the intakes. Display also doesn’t come on when I turn the key. Will flash on when it starts with gas in the intake though.
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Sounds like it not getting fuel. Check for a bad fuel pump relay. Display will NOT come on until it’s started.Ran fine when put away, not not starting, will start if a spray gas in the intakes. Display also doesn’t come on when I turn the key. Will flash on when it starts with gas in the intake though.
74Nitro
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2007 should be carb.Sounds like it not getting fuel. Check for a bad fuel pump relay. Display will NOT come on until it’s started.
74Nitro
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Keep doing that and make sure there is lots of fuel in tank. I would have a fire extinguisher handy though.Ran fine when put away, not not starting, will start if a spray gas in the intakes. Display also doesn’t come on when I turn the key. Will flash on when it starts with gas in the intake though.
I assume you are boosting it and the battery is weak?
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Sounds like the carbs need to be cleaned.2007 should be carb.
Lakehouse2021
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I did figure out that on my 06, they run an AGM battery. If you are charging it with a basic charger, it's charging the battery at a higher voltage than glass-mat batteries need. AGM likes to charge slower at around 12.5v.
earthling
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AGM want low current charging, not low voltage. No battery will charge with a voltage that is lower than its steady state. All batteries (lead-acid, AGm, Lithium, etc) are built out of multiple cells. That is why on normal batteries and even some maintenance free batteries you see separate filling ports (6) across the top, each of those cells is a separate storage unit. Those cells are typically at 2.14v each so 6*2.14=12.6v. The charge voltage for AGM is 14.4 to 14.8v and the float voltage is typically varying and between 13.2 and 13.8v, always higher than the resting voltage. Smart chargers break the charging process down into 3 steps which they do by measuring resting voltage. That's why you see the delay in smart chargers, they measure standing voltage, pick a charging mode (deep/bulk, normal, float) and change the applied voltage accordingly. On some smart chargers they do the float charge by cycling the charger on/off (pulsing) and if you try to read this with a standard volt meter or with even a fancy one set incorrectly you may see some erroneous low voltage readings.
Lakehouse2021
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Thankyou for the corrections! I knew enough to be dangerous, not expert. The basic point being: I saw a previous owner of my sled trying to charge it and not getting a start. When I received the sled and put charger in AGM, I get great results with the same battery.AGM want low current charging, not low voltage. No battery will charge with a voltage that is lower than its steady state. All batteries (lead-acid, AGm, Lithium, etc) are built out of multiple cells. That is why on normal batteries and even some maintenance free batteries you see separate filling ports (6) across the top, each of those cells is a separate storage unit. Those cells are typically at 2.14v each so 6*2.14=12.6v. The charge voltage for AGM is 14.4 to 14.8v and the float voltage is typically varying and between 13.2 and 13.8v, always higher than the resting voltage. Smart chargers break the charging process down into 3 steps which they do by measuring resting voltage. That's why you see the delay in smart chargers, they measure standing voltage, pick a charging mode (deep/bulk, normal, float) and change the applied voltage accordingly. On some smart chargers they do the float charge by cycling the charger on/off (pulsing) and if you try to read this with a standard volt meter or with even a fancy one set incorrectly you may see some erroneous low voltage readings.
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FYI These sleds need to be started in summer. The carb bowls run dry then they are a bugger to reprime. I start mine up once every couple of months and never have any troubles.
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Last night I tried starting mine with no success. Battery is new and charged.FYI These sleds need to be started in summer. The carb bowls run dry then they are a bugger to reprime. I start mine up once every couple of months and never have any troubles.
I even shot it with starting fluid and didn't even get a pop. Could it still be bowls and jets?
Fast Lane
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That seems odd. Starting fluid should light it off even if the bowls are dry. Also odd having three cylinders not being able to produce a spark to light the fluid off. Maybe a bad ground somewhere? Stator? Take a plugs out and crank it while the plugs are in the COPs. See if they spark.Last night I tried starting mine with no success. Battery is new and charged.
I even shot it with starting fluid and didn't even get a pop. Could it still be bowls and jets?
sxr70001
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Check Kill switch too. I know it sounds dumb but we've all done it.
Lakehouse2021
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Yes, you are reminding me that a few months back I got into the wiring to add lights and a heated shield port... I'll bet I bumped a connection loose....Check Kill switch too. I know it sounds dumb but we've all done it.
Lakehouse2021
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Well it appears to be an electrical issue. Confirmed with no spark on a plug. Now I need to figure out where the issue is.That seems odd. Starting fluid should light it off even if the bowls are dry. Also odd having three cylinders not being able to produce a spark to light the fluid off. Maybe a bad ground somewhere? Stator? Take a plugs out and crank it while the plugs are in the COPs. See if they spark.
mmmvines
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I take the battery out and charge it. I’m not boosting it. I took a couple hoses off the fuel pump, I’m not seeing any gas pumping when I turn the key. . I bought a new relay and swapped it out, still nothing, checked the fuse box, nothing seems to be blown. Still think relay or fuse or something else I’m missing but I guess could be fuel pump or carbs.Keep doing that and make sure there is lots of fuel in tank. I would have a fire extinguisher handy though.
I assume you are boosting it and the battery is weak?
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