2012 APEX XTX Jack-shaft bearing replacement on the clutch side

[brmurph]

I have looked at most of the threads for replacing the clutch side jack-shaft bearing but most of them seem to be about pre-2011 APEX'S (including the FAQ). I have read that the 2011 and newer are easier to replace but am still confused if I have to pull the jack-shaft out? Any other tips specific to the 2012 would be appreciated.

I could probably get away with cleaning it and re-grease but I already have the bearing and would like to replace it if not too much trouble. .

Thanks.

 

[coolio]

It it way easier to simply remove the snap ring then gently pry out the seal. Inspect it then add more grease and reassemble. These bearings last forever as they are not exposed to water like the driveshaft bearing.

 

[brmurph]

Thanks guys, thats what I needed to know. I have attached a pic, anyone have an opinion on repack or replace based on the pic?

 

[coolio]

Thanks guys, thats what I needed to know. I have attached a pic, anyone have an opinion on repack or replace based on the pic?

I see nothing wrong with it. No rust, no discoloration from heat, no metal shavings. As long as there is no excessive slop in the shaft repack it and sled on.

 

[biffdotorg]

Spray brake cleaner in there, blow out out with compressed air and pack it with a needle adapter on your grease gun.

Sorry, after learning how easy it was to repack, I felt annually if not twice a year is worth doing over taking it out to replace. It will hold up.

 

[maim]

replaced mine at 10000 miles as i was doing all the chaincase bearings at the time as the stock speedo bearing had just failed. prior to that i just cleaned and repacked it every year.

 

[brmurph]

Thanks.. I'll go ahead and clean it this time and replace it when I change the track in another 5000 miles or so (especially since I just buttoned up the chain case the other day).

 

[biffdotorg]

Good plan. I don't think I have had a lower arm cramp like opening a chain case three times with a traditional socket wrench. That's a crapcan of spinning without an impact wrench! I know better now.

 

[maim]

i used to use a air ratchet until i got 3/8" battery impact. did it a bunch of times with wreches and ratchets before i got a compressor at home. battery impact is much nicer as no hose to wrap up in.

 

[brmurph]

Anyone else strip the studs installing the bearing retainer for the front driveshaft (speedometer side) ? I was replacing the bearing, thought this should be an easy job then torqued the nuts to the manual specs (14 ft lbs) and the stud closest to the front of the machine striped and broke off, the other studs tightened up nicely. Is this a common problem? Easy fix? I think I'll just drill out the stud and through bolt but thought I would check what others have done or if I am the only one this has happen too. I swear I am going to stop using a torque wrench and just tighten to my specs .

Thanks.

 

[msgt van]

Anyone else strip the studs installing the bearing retainer for the front driveshaft (speedometer side) ? I was replacing the bearing, thought this should be an easy job then torqued the nuts to the manual specs (14 ft lbs) and the stud closest to the front of the machine striped and broke off, the other studs tightened up nicely. Is this a common problem? Easy fix? I think I'll just drill out the stud and through bolt but thought I would check what others have done or if I am the only one this has happen too. I swear I am going to stop using a torque wrench and just tighten to my specs .

Thanks.

Nope. I'm pretty sure you're the only one! Get your wrist re-calibrated and you'll be good to go.

 

[maim]

"knock on wood" haven't stripped them yet.

 

[brmurph]

Yeah this was kind of strange as I drilled it out and replaced it with a stainless steel button head bolt and torqued it to the same spec no problems (stainless is pretty soft). Anyway I think it will work fine until I replace the track at which point I will replace the whole retainer.