2015 RS Viking Pro - Won’t Start

[Minnesota Wolf]

I purchased a used 2015 RS Viking pro at the end of last winter, it has less than 700 miles on it, had carbs cleaned and new battery last March. I installed an onboard battery tender and keep it plugged in. It has the 973cc 4 stroke with carbs, not efi. I ran it out fishing last week in a snowstorm, then it got down to -35f overnight, since then I have not been able to start it. I moved it into a heated ice fishing tent to thaw it out and it’s been there for about 6 hours, going to leave it overnight but it doesn’t start yet. I have been reading a lot of good info on this site and have found the relay switches above the left foot panel and took them out and cleaned the terminals and switched the two matching ones, I believe one is for headlights, one for the fuel pump, but not sure which goes where, one did have corroded terminals though (I ordered a new one but it has not arrived yet). I checked the main fuse on the starter relay, and all the fuses in the fuse box. When I turn the key it cranks and turns over but it doesn’t seem like it’s getting any fuel.

Question - when you turn the key to the first “notch” before the engine cranks, is the fuel pump supposed to kick in and dashboard turn on? I don’t get anything happening and don’t hear anything. Trying to trouble shoot - can’t determine if it’s something electrical or frozen fuel lines, or something else I haven’t tried yet. Any help is very much appreciated

 

[MrSled]

nothing will turn on with that model until its fired and running. you should have 4 relays, and when you turn the key one of the relays should click. If you have had the sled in a warm erea over night is should fire with full choke.

 

[Minnesota Wolf]

nothing will turn on with that model until its fired and running. you should have 4 relays, and when you turn the key one of the relays should click. If you have had the sled in a warm erea over night is should fire with full choke.

Thanks! Glad to know those features won’t to turn on until it’s running.

I have read about the red solid state relay - do you know if that is compatible with this sled? The schematic shows two relays as 5DM-81950-00-00 and one as 8DM-81950-11-00. It looks like the red one is designed for EFI sleds?

 

[MrSled]

Thanks! Glad to know those features won’t to turn on until it’s running.

I have read about the red solid state relay - do you know if that is compatible with this sled? The schematic shows two relays as 5DM-81950-00-00 and one as 8DM-81950-11-00. It looks like the red one is designed for EFI sleds?

I dont think the carb sleds have a electronic fuel pump, so I think those relays would not be a factor. The sled could have been flooded from trying to get it to fire. Have you tried new plugs?

 

[MrSled]

Sometimes you can pop the air box open and spray some starting fluid or fuel in the intakes as you crank it. It should pop off if it has good spark.

 

[Minnesota Wolf]

Sometimes you can pop the air box open and spray some starting fluid or fuel in the intakes as you crank it. It should pop off if it has good spark.

Have not tried new plugs - but good idea to check that - I did try some starting fluid and gas from a spray bottle, but that was when the engine was still cold. I have some time this afternoon to look at it again, thanks for your help - will let you know if I can get her going

 

[maim]

how fresh is the gas?

 

[Minnesota Wolf]

New plugs did it - old ones were pretty fouled. Thanks!

 

[MrSled]

New plugs did it - old ones were pretty fouled. Thanks!

Your very welcome!!

 

[Shoveling white shi-]

New guy . I've got a 2010 vicking professional 1040 miles . I picked it up cheap knowing it had problems witch is nothing new for me . So hears what's going on . Starter up cold runs like a dream , high idle then to low idle and at about 165 or 170 degrees she starts to spit and sputter and dies and then you can't get it to restart until it cools down to about 100 degrees. If I restart it after it cools down runs like new for 10 mins or so then spit and sputter and dies , Engine temps 165 , 170 , I've replaced stator & pickup coil , regulator, ecm , by passed tors , cleaned carbs & sinked carbs , turned carb heat off , load tested the battery , 12.9 volts off and 14.4 v running, pulled fuel pumps apart all good & pumps like mad when running , I've put new plugs in & checked the spark when it's in the spit & sputter mode it's got spark and good spark & I've even squirted gas in the carbs when it's in spit & sputter mode and that makes no difference it's just going to die . Anyone got any clues ?? I'm about to pull the head off and check the valve clearance ??

 

[MrSled]

New guy . I've got a 2010 vicking professional 1040 miles . I picked it up cheap knowing it had problems witch is nothing new for me . So hears what's going on . Starter up cold runs like a dream , high idle then to low idle and at about 165 or 170 degrees she starts to spit and sputter and dies and then you can't get it to restart until it cools down to about 100 degrees. If I restart it after it cools down runs like new for 10 mins or so then spit and sputter and dies , Engine temps 165 , 170 , I've replaced stator & pickup coil , regulator, ecm , by passed tors , cleaned carbs & sinked carbs , turned carb heat off , load tested the battery , 12.9 volts off and 14.4 v running, pulled fuel pumps apart all good & pumps like mad when running , I've put new plugs in & checked the spark when it's in the spit & sputter mode it's got spark and good spark & I've even squirted gas in the carbs when it's in spit & sputter mode and that makes no difference it's just going to die . Anyone got any clues ?? I'm about to pull the head off and check the valve clearance ??

Well when it don’t start what’s it missing? Fuel, spark, air?

 

[Shoveling white shi-]

This machine was sold new in Wasilla AK and run 925 miles in AK then it was sold to a gentleman in Sheridan Wy and run about 120 miles and he's had this problem from the day he got it . He took it to a Yamaha dealer in Cheyenne Wy and had it worked on and no luck solving the problem. Then I picked it up thinking this is an easy fix . I've called both dealers seeking information on it . Not much to report there . I'm no stranger to Yamaha 4 stroke. For a single guy that lives in the biggest desert in the USA I've got 7 Yamaha sleds and I'll never go back to a 2 stroke again . I would shovel 2 hrs with a smile on my face as compared to walking 4 hrs back to my pickup . This machine looks like new inside and out. Checked the grounds out everything looks good . Compression is 190 ish cold . I'll check compression hot tomorrow and post it . What are the chances that the values clearance is to tight and as it warms up its opening the values to soon ?? Anyone ever have that happen ? Tomorrow is another day and 1 thing for sure going to happen. Another dollar is going to be gone .

 

[MrSled]

This machine was sold new in Wasilla AK and run 925 miles in AK then it was sold to a gentleman in Sheridan Wy and run about 120 miles and he's had this problem from the day he got it . He took it to a Yamaha dealer in Cheyenne Wy and had it worked on and no luck solving the problem. Then I picked it up thinking this is an easy fix . I've called both dealers seeking information on it . Not much to report there . I'm no stranger to Yamaha 4 stroke. For a single guy that lives in the biggest desert in the USA I've got 7 Yamaha sleds and I'll never go back to a 2 stroke again . I would shovel 2 hrs with a smile on my face as compared to walking 4 hrs back to my pickup . This machine looks like new inside and out. Checked the grounds out everything looks good . Compression is 190 ish cold . I'll check compression hot tomorrow and post it . What are the chances that the values clearance is to tight and as it warms up its opening the values to soon ?? Anyone ever have that happen ? Tomorrow is another day and 1 thing for sure going to happen. Another dollar is going to be gone .

It could have super tight valve tolerance. You would think the dealer would have checked the spec. It’s worth a try for sure.

 

[74Nitro]

This machine was sold new in Wasilla AK and run 925 miles in AK then it was sold to a gentleman in Sheridan Wy and run about 120 miles and he's had this problem from the day he got it . He took it to a Yamaha dealer in Cheyenne Wy and had it worked on and no luck solving the problem. Then I picked it up thinking this is an easy fix . I've called both dealers seeking information on it . Not much to report there . I'm no stranger to Yamaha 4 stroke. For a single guy that lives in the biggest desert in the USA I've got 7 Yamaha sleds and I'll never go back to a 2 stroke again . I would shovel 2 hrs with a smile on my face as compared to walking 4 hrs back to my pickup . This machine looks like new inside and out. Checked the grounds out everything looks good . Compression is 190 ish cold . I'll check compression hot tomorrow and post it . What are the chances that the values clearance is to tight and as it warms up its opening the values to soon ?? Anyone ever have that happen ? Tomorrow is another day and 1 thing for sure going to happen. Another dollar is going to be gone .

What problem are we talking about? The plug fouling? With low miles like this, valve clearance shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Shoveling white shi-]

I've never run into anything like this before . I didn't just jump on them thumpers with cold feet . I jumped off a cliff head first and never looked back . 1 yz 426 was the beginning to the end of them 2 strokes. I got really tired of chasing them thunder sticks on the track . Well this is what I've done so far changed the oil and load test the battery 12.9 off and 14.4 running and plugs are new and gapped at 30 and dry if you pull them out when its running. If you pull them plugs out when it's in the spit and sputter and die mode there wet . I've put in a new stator and pickup coil in and no change then new voltage regulator and no change then new ecm and no change. Checked all the grounds all good and clean then I bypassed the tors up on the bars no change . So I hooked tors back up as it should be and no change . Looked the wiring over really good and wiggled and pushed wires around looking a short as it was running no change . Got my ohms meter out and spent 1/2 day checking everything I could think of and no change . Pulled cards off and everything looked good, pulled all the jets and cleaned the jet holes and spayed card cleaner down all the holes and air pressure then checked all the floats and reassembled them and installed carbs started it up and sinked all 3 carbs running . I pulled fuel pumps off and everything looks good and pulled fuel lines off running 1 at a time and pumps fuel like mad . No change . It done this from the day I loaded it on my pickup . The guy I bought from told me straight up it would do this and it sure does . You start it up cold and it runs like new . High idle then to low idle for about 10 mins you think you got it and then it happens. Spit and sputter for about 1 min or so and die . Motor will crank over good and it will not start and it will spit and sputter as you crank it over but will not start . I've checked the spark when it's in spit and sputter mode with a different coil and plug sitting on top of the motor and it's got good hot spark when it dies and when you try and restart it. I've pulled the plugs out right after it dies and there wet . I tried squirting gas in the cards in spit and sputter mode and it's just going to die. I'm do believe its had this problem from the day it was new and everyone that owned it has sold it and said thank goodness it's gone . The only honest person that's owned it was the gentleman in Sheridan Wy and he said it straight up to me when I bought from him and he described the problem in detail from start to die . Machine looks like new inside and out and has never sat outside . Not so much as a piece of dirt or a tree leaf or pine needle was in the belly pan or took box or any place else on the machine . By looking at it you would think it just rolled off the show room floor . Its got 1040 miles on it. I've messed with it now for a wk off and on to the point that using a inferred heat gun on the radiator that at about 160 degrees it miss ever so lightly and at 165 to 170 degrees it happens the spit and sputter mode and dies . If you start it cold and when it hits low idle pick the rpms up to 2500 rpm it will all day long . But you let the rpm drop to 2000 or so it's going to die . Engine temp holds at about 175 to 180 with a garden hose running very slow on the radiator and engine rpms 2500 all day long she runs good . So now what ?? I'm going to pull the valve cover off and check the clearance on the cam and valves and I'll post back as to what I find . Every good man loves a good woman that listens to us wine . I'm currently taken applications