combz
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- yamaha viper 2015
Hi everyone, one of my last rides of the season my friend noticed my brake light on when I wasn't using my brakes, the ebrake was not on. I took the side panel off and the brake smelled hot sure enough I couldn't even touch it.. And I hadn't used it for several kilometres. If I didn't touch the brakes at all after it cooled down (20 minutes or so) it seemed to stay cool but hard to tell. Next day I tried bleeding the brakes for about 20 minutes cycled a lot of fluid though.. And it was still sticking on..
We had 6 km to get back to the trucks and I noticed my boot felt really hot. I looked down to see flames (and this time I literally didn't touch the brakes once on purpose) Coming from my left foot.. Jumped off and started throwing snow on it.. We saved the sled.
Took it to the dealer.. They warrantied the caliper.. Said they replaced the brake switch(which I don't know what that is) and the brake line.. Replaced the burned up pads and disc ans some plastics.
They have no idea what caused it to seize on. I just got it back this week and took it for a short test drive.. As soon as I pulled it off the trailer I could tell it was labouring to even reverse.
I drove it normally used the brakes lightly a few times and checked.. It was screaming hot again.
I let it cool completly and drove it another half a km.. Didn't touch the brakes and still it got scorching hot.
What is causing this... If they replaced the entire caliper assembly.. Brake line.. Fluid.. (seems at a normal level)..and whatever he called a brake switch. What could possibly be left? My warranty is almost done and I won't be able to test it again after I bring it back.. Anything I can ask them to check would be greatly appreciated.
I searched the forums for two hours and online and couldn't find a single thread about this. Help please!!
We had 6 km to get back to the trucks and I noticed my boot felt really hot. I looked down to see flames (and this time I literally didn't touch the brakes once on purpose) Coming from my left foot.. Jumped off and started throwing snow on it.. We saved the sled.
Took it to the dealer.. They warrantied the caliper.. Said they replaced the brake switch(which I don't know what that is) and the brake line.. Replaced the burned up pads and disc ans some plastics.
They have no idea what caused it to seize on. I just got it back this week and took it for a short test drive.. As soon as I pulled it off the trailer I could tell it was labouring to even reverse.
I drove it normally used the brakes lightly a few times and checked.. It was screaming hot again.
I let it cool completly and drove it another half a km.. Didn't touch the brakes and still it got scorching hot.
What is causing this... If they replaced the entire caliper assembly.. Brake line.. Fluid.. (seems at a normal level)..and whatever he called a brake switch. What could possibly be left? My warranty is almost done and I won't be able to test it again after I bring it back.. Anything I can ask them to check would be greatly appreciated.
I searched the forums for two hours and online and couldn't find a single thread about this. Help please!!
It's the master cylinder that's bad. Cat had a recall on some of them. Wondered why no Yamahas ever did.
Seeing the brake light stuck on is confirmation
combz
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- yamaha viper 2015
After the "repair" the brake light is no longer stuck on but the symptoms of hot rotor have persisted. Just more info.
How does a master cylinder cause pressure on the pads.. Usually the diaphragms get weak and cause a spongey feel doesn't it?ive never heard it cashing pressure.
And can you elaborate how the brake light confirms master cylinder?
Prior to the brake light sticking on when my friend noticed I first.. We were waiting at an off trail gas station and I did have to use my ebrake for 5 minutes or so at a time for about 35 minutes while waiting on a hill for gas. It seemed to happen right after this.
Could be relevant...
How does a master cylinder cause pressure on the pads.. Usually the diaphragms get weak and cause a spongey feel doesn't it?ive never heard it cashing pressure.
And can you elaborate how the brake light confirms master cylinder?
Prior to the brake light sticking on when my friend noticed I first.. We were waiting at an off trail gas station and I did have to use my ebrake for 5 minutes or so at a time for about 35 minutes while waiting on a hill for gas. It seemed to happen right after this.
Could be relevant...
The piston in master can sieze. Will look for the bulletin.
If it were caliper the brake light would not be on since lever returns whether or not caliper does. Or it should. Will ask tech today but I recall replacing a bunch of masters on Cats.
TD Max
Lifetime Member
Also mistakenly putting petroleum oil in the fluid can do this. It will swell the silicone rubber up and make excess pressure and dragging.
I remember what the Master Cylinder change was. It was Yamaha and Cat spring sleds. They updated them to the new master cylinder with curved lever. The Tech said that overfilling the Master could also cause the Caliper to drag or even lock up once it got warm. This would explain why brake light wasnt on second time.
combz
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My brake fluid was in fact low when I got back to the checkpoint as I went to the store and got fluid to try to bleed the brakes the night before the fire. So I don't think that was it. I have a dx not a spring model. I'll try calling them to see what they say.I remember what the Master Cylinder change was. It was Yamaha and Cat spring sleds. They updated them to the new master cylinder with curved lever. The Tech said that overfilling the Master could also cause the Caliper to drag or even lock up once it got warm. This would explain why brake light wasnt on second time.
combz
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Same brake fluid was in it for 1000 miles no issues until the day it happened.Also mistakenly putting petroleum oil in the fluid can do this. It will swell the silicone rubber up and make excess pressure and dragging.
combz
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The lever felt like it was returning to its position fine even when it was showing the brake light on. I could even hear the audible click of the level that should normally engage the brake light.If it were caliper the brake light would not be on since lever returns whether or not caliper does. Or it should. Will ask tech today but I recall replacing a bunch of masters on Cats.
So you have 2 issues. One electrical and the brakes. I reread and you mentioned a oring you found. There is one in passageway between two caliper halves.The lever felt like it was returning to its position fine even when it was showing the brake light on. I could even hear the audible click of the level that should normally engage the brake light.
combz
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i don't recall anything about an o-ring. They replaced the entire caliper assembly, with jackshaft bearing and all that, and it's still doing it. so it seems like that can't be it. The guy at the dealer said he's never had a single problem with any artic cat master cylinder or yamaha ...but i mean what else could it be at this point? As for having two separate issues...it's possible, i just find it extremely odd that they would occur at the EXACT same time...coincidences like that never occur. Usually anytime something like that happens in my experience its because they are related...
I'll have to bring it back in for them to look at , but they seem skeptical that there is still an issue. Even though i drove it and could cook a steak on it from the heat even after not using it...uhg
I'll have to bring it back in for them to look at , but they seem skeptical that there is still an issue. Even though i drove it and could cook a steak on it from the heat even after not using it...uhg
So you have 2 issues. One electrical and the brakes. I reread and you mentioned a oring you found. There is one in passageway between two caliper halves.
I agree with you but the lever and brake switch are a Seperate system from master. If you could hear the click of the switch like you said brake light should function normally. So they fixed that issue with brake switch replacement. Does the lever have the same amount of play before engagement as before?
combz
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- yamaha viper 2015
I agree with you but the lever and brake switch are a Seperate system from master. If you could hear the click of the switch like you said brake light should function normally. So they fixed that issue with brake switch replacement. Does the lever have the same amount of play before engagement as before?
First of all.. Thank you for helping with this. As far as the play goes all seems about the same.. It doesn't take much pressure at all to lock up the track.. (obviously if they are half on anyways).
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