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2015 yamaha viper mtx build

quentin lemay

Veteran
Joined
Feb 14, 2020
Messages
35
Age
26
Location
ALBERTA
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2015 Yamaha viper mix 162 mpi turbo
so snows pretty much gone here in Alberta.
have a ton of mods and fixing to do to the sled over the spring-fall.
need to get rid of steering slop (replace worn bushings)
replace bent spindle
change oil/filter
chain case oil
swap hood, possibly cr racing lightweight hood
relocate handlebar controls
build something to replace the tripod used for the steering(nothing but issues with it so far)
possibly a lightweight seat
lithium lightweight battery
possibly new tube running boards
snow flap delete
relocate front skid shock 1'' forward
possibly some slightly wider skis
remove the idler wheels from outside of the rails and move to inside of the rails

any other things anyone can recommend would be great thanks
 

Some ideas:

More venting.
Longer straps instead of moving center spring? Increase pressure/tension on center spring.
Ice Age rails. Make sure it's compatible. I couldn't fit front boggie wheels or anti-stab wheels on mine.
10" rear wheels.
Snowflap delete is ok as long as you have enough powder to cool it. If not, go for a shorter one.
Headlight delete? Switch to a good spread LED bar with minimum disturbance.
My Blade DS skis are awesome. Great (but not too much) grip on trail, great handling deep snow. Fits without modification.
ROV kit. Relocate separator hose to engine mag cover. This gives less oil in intake when carving through snow.
Switch out hand grips to sidewinder type. They seem thinner and give you more grip.
Goldfinger throttle.
T-motion.
Lynx type ice scratchers (that go both ways).
Lightweight exhaust can/header. Cold air intake paired with remap.
Switch to a oilite tripod bushing, pair with billet steering block. Loctite bolts on tripod.
Be sure to check the bracket at the bottom of steering post.

Long wheelies/verticals will give you an oil lamp and eventually limp mode. Find a fix for it?
 
Some ideas:

More venting.
Longer straps instead of moving center spring? Increase pressure/tension on center spring.
Ice Age rails. Make sure it's compatible. I couldn't fit front boggie wheels or anti-stab wheels on mine.
10" rear wheels.
Snowflap delete is ok as long as you have enough powder to cool it. If not, go for a shorter one.
Headlight delete? Switch to a good spread LED bar with minimum disturbance.
My Blade DS skis are awesome. Great (but not too much) grip on trail, great handling deep snow. Fits without modification.
ROV kit. Relocate separator hose to engine mag cover. This gives less oil in intake when carving through snow.
Switch out hand grips to sidewinder type. They seem thinner and give you more grip.
Goldfinger throttle.
T-motion.
Lynx type ice scratchers (that go both ways).
Lightweight exhaust can/header. Cold air intake paired with remap.
Switch to a oilite tripod bushing, pair with billet steering block. Loctite bolts on tripod.
Be sure to check the bracket at the bottom of steering post.

Long wheelies/verticals will give you an oil lamp and eventually limp mode. Find a fix for it?


Some great ideas. Thanks.
Currently trying to find out how to replace the lowest bushing ( bottom of bulkhead) I think u have to drill out all rivers and take a bunch apart. The oil to mag cover, how does one do that?
I know this has the rollover protection. But I’m not sure if I get what ur talking about. Thanks.

I can’t upload any pics for some reason. But I’ve relocated front shocks and longer straps. I have the front anti stab. Might order another and mount it just in front of the front skid shock. And remove outside idlers that way.

Might pull trigger on the lightweight cr hood. Any other suggestions?

Thanks.
 
Can't you access that bushing after removing the rubber covers around steering rod?

Apparently you'll need a kit for the oil relocate, I'm getting one this summer. http://www.mountainperformance.com/Files/Download/hsk-1160_Layout.pdf

An image needs to be resized to 1024x768. I use the photoresizer app, works great.

I'm not sure you'll save that much weight on the cr hood, but I've considered it myself. I did a headlight delete, and intend to drill some holes in the cover beneath the hood for added venting.
 
Some great ideas. Thanks.
Currently trying to find out how to replace the lowest bushing ( bottom of bulkhead) I think u have to drill out all rivers and take a bunch apart. The oil to mag cover, how does one do that?
I know this has the rollover protection. But I’m not sure if I get what ur talking about. Thanks.

I can’t upload any pics for some reason. But I’ve relocated front shocks and longer straps. I have the front anti stab. Might order another and mount it just in front of the front skid shock. And remove outside idlers that way.

Might pull trigger on the lightweight cr hood. Any other suggestions?

Thanks.


I couldn’t figure out the picture sizing thing at first either. Doing it from my iPhone, when you click on the picture you want to load at the bottom it says size, click on that and I usually click large unless that won’t load either. Then I’ll choose medium and it’ll load. Took me a minute to figure that out.
 
I couldn’t figure out the picture sizing thing at first either. Doing it from my iPhone, when you click on the picture you want to load at the bottom it says size, click on that and I usually click large unless that won’t load either. Then I’ll choose medium and it’ll load. Took me a minute to figure that out.

CA2C84E4-04B2-4FCD-9581-80FDFCE19D40.jpeg


See at the bottom, hit that and then it gives you this menu.
ED52B5D7-372A-4030-BA3C-DBB3423EBA37.jpeg
 
So the bushing is at the bottom of bulkhead. Or whatever they’re called on Yamaha. Lol. (Ex skidoo guy).

I’ll try attach some pics and see if it helps at all.
And I think I must have the oil kit ur talking about as my sled has all that. It has mpi turbo kit. So maybe that was part of it when they installed it. Not sure tho.
 

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Yeah that looks like you already have the relocate kit. Have any trouble with oil getting into intake when leaning right?

Not that I’m really aware of. The intake after the turbo has the tiniest amount of oil residue. Which is likely from that. But could also be signs of turbo on its way out. I’m gonna have a better look here later on. Hopefully it’s just from it being tipped over tho.
 
Go find my thread on here.mild to mildless. just did all this haha

Wicked write up man.
Anything u would change or do differently? How did u like all the new modifications. Thanks.
 
I am still on the fence with the front end. I did the 38" kit and i think maybe i should have done the 36? Carsons 36 still handles a little better off trail then the 38 kit. But it could totally be suspension settings.

other then that, no i really like everything i did. I think for next season i may try another clutch kit?? the dalton one i run with the xtx gearing is just a smidge too heavy. and i may try another bottom gear?? maybe go to a 44 or somewhere around there. just to try it.
 
I am still on the fence with the front end. I did the 38" kit and i think maybe i should have done the 36? Carsons 36 still handles a little better off trail then the 38 kit. But it could totally be suspension settings.

other then that, no i really like everything i did. I think for next season i may try another clutch kit?? the dalton one i run with the xtx gearing is just a smidge too heavy. and i may try another bottom gear?? maybe go to a 44 or somewhere around there. just to try it.

For sure. I just got my clutching dialed in. I do mostly mountain, tree riding. I have the 36” ski stance. Love it. Works awesome in deep snow.
 


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