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3,000 miles and still on the original drive axle, here's my .02

NOS-PRO

"The Burnman"
Vendor
Joined
Apr 14, 2003
Messages
6,539
Location
Hessel, Michigan
Country
USA
Snowmobile
Sidewinder, SR Viper XTX, SR Viper XTX, 2016 Apex XTX and Pro-Line Pro Stock 1000
With all these drive axles wearing the bearing diameter down, I saw right from the get go from when the Vipers came out, was on a members sled that I worked on and saw what needs to be done. This members sled was worn down .030" and needed to be replaced.

These drive axles do not fit snug.....we all know that. Some have dimpled the shaft, some have installed BOP bearing/shaft saver, some have put in set screws with loctite. All that's really needed is to keep the track tight. Take it for what it is worth, this is my .02 and is working for me... but a tight track (and I run my tracks way tighter than what is recommended) will hold more pressure between the bearing and the drive axle, thus not letting the bearing spin on the shaft. Also repacked my bearings with a little lighter grease so the cold doesn't play a factor either. Every sled I own I run the track tight. And owning 2 Pro cross Vipers and a Sidewinder, they are not wearing down at all running the tracks tight.
 

Been there tried that for the first 2300 miles of the sleds life, thought it made perfect sense. Didn't work so well for me, still junked the shaft in no time at all. I wouldn't recommend it to save the shaft!
 
With all these drive axles wearing the bearing diameter down, I saw right from the get go from when the Vipers came out, was on a members sled that I worked on and saw what needs to be done. This members sled was worn down .030" and needed to be replaced.

These drive axles do not fit snug.....we all know that. Some have dimpled the shaft, some have installed BOP bearing/shaft saver, some have put in set screws with loctite. All that's really needed is to keep the track tight. Take it for what it is worth, this is my .02 and is working for me... but a tight track (and I run my tracks way tighter than what is recommended) will hold more pressure between the bearing and the drive axle, thus not letting the bearing spin on the shaft. Also repacked my bearings with a little lighter grease so the cold doesn't play a factor either. Every sled I own I run the track tight. And owning 2 Pro cross Vipers and a Sidewinder, they are not wearing down at all running the tracks tight.


Definitely helps, I have a 15 1100 turbo original shaft 13000 kms, my 19 tcat is using the same shaft my 17 tcat had in it cause I use a 2.52 track and it has over 5000 miles and still good. Dimple the shaft each time it's out and zero issues so far.
 
I don't have enough miles on my POS to have these problems yet, but is it really that hard to keep a bearing from spinning on a shaft? The apex have the little set screws (2 of them) on one side. This is not possible? I need to read about all the other issues I need to deal with on my winder, its stuck with me now..I'm just in denial...
 
I
I don't have enough miles on my POS to have these problems yet, but is it really that hard to keep a bearing from spinning on a shaft? The apex have the little set screws (2 of them) on one side. This is not possible? I need to read about all the other issues I need to deal with on my winder, its stuck with me now..I'm just in denial...
I believe KA and others have tried what you're suggesting. To my knowledge, it didn't work.
 
Been there done that as well.. maybe on a stock winder but as you crank up the power it magnifies the problem.
 
I run a bar tight track as well. I had around 3000 miles on mine and caught it just before it got problematic.
 
I don't have enough miles on my POS to have these problems yet, but is it really that hard to keep a bearing from spinning on a shaft? The apex have the little set screws (2 of them) on one side. This is not possible? I need to read about all the other issues I need to deal with on my winder, its stuck with me now..I'm just in denial...

It wouldn't be hard had Cat engineered the bearing to hold the set screw into a soft shaft no, but they have nothing to control the bearing from spinning on the shaft whatsoever with about a .002" slip fit upon assembly. No bearing can be sourced with proper sizing with eccentric lock collar or set screws to hold onto the shaft. Basic I know, but its one of the many short sided CAT engineering SNAFUS on the machine along with some stuff in the chaincase. Fix the driveline and the sled is great.

The BOP wedge needs to be put in right from new to have any chance of saving the shaft IMO. I think its the only thing thus far that has any chance of holding the bearing and not allowing the spin on the shaft, short of building up the shaft for a press fit on the bearing.

I tried green loctite and set screw thru the shaft to hold it, and it did for about 1500 miles before it just started to spin again.
 
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I am doing new shaft in mine. what do you think of set screws in shaft while all new. maybe recheck a few times
 
really should just have a nut on the axle. I think someone here welded a nut and made a cap and bolted everything, but if I recall they had brake pulse. if they made a different rotor that floated on its own hub, the shaft could just have a nut on the end, tightening the hub and bearing together, that would be bullet proof and easy to assemble.
 
Put a new track on a 17 Winder with 8000kms recently, shaft had no wear at all, so put it all back together with a film of loctite and drive on.
 
I am doing new shaft in mine. what do you think of set screws in shaft while all new. maybe recheck a few times

I wouldn't. Do yourself a favor and buy the BOP shaft saver. I wouldn't chance loctite, setscrews or other items. Been there, done that, I had no LONG TERM success with either.
 
I wouldn't. Do yourself a favor and buy the BOP shaft saver. I wouldn't chance loctite, setscrews or other items. Been there, done that, I had no LONG TERM success with either.
I see it as the only option too. brand new shaft and yamaha bearing falls right on. who was the one who welded a nut and used an end cap to hold it all tight?
 
Take KnappAttack advice and get the BOP shaft saver. My bearing was loose on the shaft with 0km on sled, I put the shaft saver since day one and after 5000km all looks good.

BOP shaft saver is being proven that it works when used on a new shaft ;)!
 


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