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Adding coolant lines into turbo?

DTJ

Extreme
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
104
Age
50
Location
Brainerd, MN
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2014 Yamaha Viper XTX, hurricane 190 kit
2013 Yamaha Apex XTX
2017 Yamaha Sidewinder BTX
I got just over 5000 miles out of my 1st garrett bearing cartridge before having to replace. I definitely didn't let it idle before shutting down consistently enough. But I'm wondering if adding coolant thru turbo would help bearing longevity. Anyone else add coolant?
 

Where did you purchase garrett bearing cartridge ? Do you have any pic's of turbo apart ? thanks Bruce
 
Turbokits.com. I did the garrett exchange rather than purchase it outright. I don't have pics right now. It's a GT2560R built by hurricane.
 
I got just over 5000 miles out of my 1st garrett bearing cartridge before having to replace. I definitely didn't let it idle before shutting down consistently enough. But I'm wondering if adding coolant thru turbo would help bearing longevity. Anyone else add coolant?
I don't run a turbo however any bearing can benefit from cooling,if your not good about idling before shutdown the cooling lines would help with that for sure.im sure the turbo&bearings would last much longer
 
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I had issues with mine but the restrictor that Dave puts in the oil line needs to be drilled out. There is already a .041” restrictor installed in the turbo, it’s built into the pin that I’m holding in my fingers. Two restrictors wont let enough oil into the bearings and they fail. I drilled out the banjo fitting restrictor to .062” and have had no further issues with about 4000 miles. The first bearings failed at about 2500 miles.
Yes cooling the housing will make the bearings last much longer especially if your kicking higher boost around 20 psi but a big key to longevity is letting your motor idle for atleast 1 min after riding.
 
Hey Clutchmaster, thanks a lot. I'm only running 5.5 psi. I'm definitely going to drill out the banjo fitting hole. I don't really like not being able to know how well oil is running through the turbo. I'd like to try test it with outlet hose unhooked from stator cover and point it out into a cup for just a few seconds. Maybe test before and after drilling hole to see if I can see a difference in oil flow. I'm thinking oil outlet is not high pressure so I should be able to test for a few seconds. Have you ever tried that?
 
No never tried it but that’s a good idea. I’m going to tie into the coolant lines this summer. That should really help the bearings to last longer.
Rebuilding the turbo isn’t that bad just make sure you mark everything well so you can reassemble everything with the same orientation. The wheels especially need to be clocked properly.
 
Hey Clutchmaster, thanks a lot. I'm only running 5.5 psi. I'm definitely going to drill out the banjo fitting hole. I don't really like not being able to know how well oil is running through the turbo. I'd like to try test it with outlet hose unhooked from stator cover and point it out into a cup for just a few seconds. Maybe test before and after drilling hole to see if I can see a difference in oil flow. I'm thinking oil outlet is not high pressure so I should be able to test for a few seconds. Have you ever tried that?

when my turbo failed I tried it to be sure i had oil getting to the turbo. I disconnected the line at the inlet to the turbo. The oil that comes out (at least on mine) was relatively slow and seemed kind of low pressure. It can be controlled into a cup.
Then again maybe thats why mine failed to begin with.
I could never get a clear answer other than there should be oil flowing to the turbo.
 
View attachment 148432 View attachment 148433 I had issues with mine but the restrictor that Dave puts in the oil line needs to be drilled out. There is already a .041” restrictor installed in the turbo, it’s built into the pin that I’m holding in my fingers. Two restrictors wont let enough oil into the bearings and they fail. I drilled out the banjo fitting restrictor to .062” and have had no further issues with about 4000 miles. The first bearings failed at about 2500 miles.
Yes cooling the housing will make the bearings last much longer especially if your kicking higher boost around 20 psi but a big key to longevity is letting your motor idle for atleast 1 min after riding.
Clutchmaster where are the restrictors located inside where the oil line goes on the turbo ? So remove oil line fitting with the 2 Bango washers ? Thanks
 
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when my turbo failed I tried it to be sure i had oil getting to the turbo. I disconnected the line at the inlet to the turbo. The oil that comes out (at least on mine) was relatively slow and seemed kind of low pressure. It can be controlled into a cup.
Then again maybe thats why mine failed to begin with.
I could never get a clear answer other than there should be oil flowing to the turbo.
Are you sure it was the inlet you disconnected?the inlet oil pressure should be equivalent to engine oil psi at a given rpm,the drain or return however is essentially just gravity return low pressure
 
Clutchmaster where are the restrictors located inside where the oil line goes on the turbo ? So remove oil line fitting with the 2 Bango washers ? Thanks

There’s a restrictor in the banjo fitting and also a restrictor in the pin that holds the bearing in place. I drilled out the banjo fitting to 1/16” or .0625”
 
Also if you clutch the rpm lower than 8500 your afr’s will be so rich you’ll torch the turbo. AFR’s below 10:1 cause huge amounts of heat inside the turbo. I adjusted my PCV so the afr’s were 11:1 instead of below 10:1
Coolant is getting plumbed into my turbo before next season.
 
Are you sure it was the inlet you disconnected?the inlet oil pressure should be equivalent to engine oil psi at a given rpm,the drain or return however is essentially just gravity return low pressure

Yes it was the inlet line. It was disconnected before the banjo. I only tested it at idle and it seemed kinda weak to me. I would have expected it to be spraying out pretty goodgood, but it was more of a slow stream. I tried blocking it with my finger and could feel it begin to build pressure.
i Guess that might explain why it failed, lol
Sleds gone now so no worries
 
Also if you clutch the rpm lower than 8500 your afr’s will be so rich you’ll torch the turbo. AFR’s below 10:1 cause huge amounts of heat inside the turbo. I adjusted my PCV so the afr’s were 11:1 instead of below 10:1
Coolant is getting plumbed into my turbo before next season.
Hey Steve did you plumb your turbo this summer? Thanks Bruce
 
Hey Steve did you plumb your turbo this summer? Thanks Bruce
Not yet but I’ll be doing it in the next couple of weeks
 


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