Aggresive trail setup- please help.

NOS-PRO said:
I'm going to chime in as for years, the stock skis have always been replaced on my sleds with C&A Razors. I have a wanted ad looking for C&A Razors and after this weekend, I spent a lot of time setting up my suspension to make the stock skis work. On powder, they still push like crazy but after my suspension tweaks, my Viper handles just as good if not better than my Nytro with C&A Razors on hardpack and flat trails with tracks. Sucking up the limiter straps 1 hole made a world of difference!
Click to expand...

You have an XTX and you sucked up the limiter strap one hole? Mine does not have any other holes in it. I am going to punch new ones in it tonight at 1" up. I hate to lose the wheelies but the nose even with simmons skis and 2 - 8" carbides needs more bite.
 
I have no idea why mine has them and yours doesn't..... weird.

At least you can poke holes in it.
 
Yamadog said:
...... even with simmons skis and 2 - 8" carbides needs more bite.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking with that turbo, the skis never see the ground anyway........ :jump:
 
buddah said:
Yamadog said:
...... even with simmons skis and 2 - 8" carbides needs more bite.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking with that turbo, the skis never see the ground anyway........ :jump:
Click to expand...

When I park it on the trailer the skis are still hard to get the tie down bar to hold them to the trailer deck :Rockon:
 
Only adjustment I made to mine as far as suspension is loosening on front skid shock. I have 6" studboy deuce bars. For me the darting was worse than the pushing in the corners. They took care of all darting. Drove my buddies 2010 skidoo this weekend and it doesn't handle the trails like my viper as far as darting. We both ride hard and I can see I can leave him in the corners as he gets a lot of ski lift where mine seems to stay well planted..I also have rear transfer blocks removed which actually will make the sled push more in theory but haven't really noticed any change. Deuce bars or aftermarket skis are a must u won't regret it
 
Yamadog the adjustment for limiter straps is up at the top of the suspension. I didnt think i had any adjustment till i really got looking around and saw the bolt and nut for limiters up top of suspension . Any way speaking of setups this is what I did. Mine is a rtx. 65 lbs air in front shocks. One hole tighter on limiter straps. !/4 in looser on rear suspension shock. Springs on soft. Removed transfer blocks. 6in woodys.Im 225 so with gear 240"s ?? Conditions sat night around my neck of woods was about 28 degrees with traffic on trails all day. So yes fairly rough. Sled handle so much better . I had push before and eliminated it completley. I will say sled is a bit stiff. But thats what this sled was made for rough stuff!!! I will say this to. The harder you work this thing the better it rides . At least my impression anyways. This is not a sit on and turn the bars ski dont or apex. You get up on it and ride it. Just seemed like when i was trying to take it easy and cruise is when im saying "this thing rides stiff" But when Im riding "IT", By that I mean standing up ,leaning into corners ,is when this thing really shines and the grin is fom ear to ear. Just my opinion conditions always vary so whats good one day might not be the next. So not really sure there is ever a perfect setup. Oh one last thing!! Make sure your headlights are aimed per the setup manual. Hated the headlights on this thing till I realized how far out of adjustment they were. Adjusted and way better!!!! I f your wondering what a setup manual is. Its a couple page instruction book that tells dealer how to check things like alignment, Headlight aim, Track tension yada,yada yada. Should have came with ur owners manual. My dealer obviously didnt aim mine. Sure alot more didnt either
 
I am looking to put aftermarket skis on it now. Been talking to the guys at Curve Skis, hopefully I can find something to make this sled turn well otherwise I will be posting it for sale.

It sucks to have the skid pulled so far up just to get some ski pressure as well. Wonder how much travel im actually losing by doing this? Currently im in the 4th hole out of 5! Also have my front skid shock turned almost all the way out.

I usually lead our group and the last thing I want is to continue on pushing through turns... don't want to end up wrapped up with another sled.
 
Stenod Just curious which of the three positions you have your rear springs in?
 
I'm currently in the middle or medium. I was on soft for the first 500 miles and decided to stiffen it up to the middle to try and keep Ski pressure better through high speed turns.
 
I was going to mention that hard may work better. Had an 07 phazer that would out run anything in tight trails on hard. Put my wife on it one day and thought i should put it on soft for her. Wouldnt handle she hated it. Put back on hard and she never let me drive it again. She's light. I have run over size rear springs on both Nytro Rtx and Xtx handled awesome with simmons skis. Still running stock skis and springs on my Viper but might not be for long. Mine pushes a little as well but i'm 300.
 
i'll give it a shot, at this point I don't mind experimenting. Think im going to give the Curve XS skis a shot and see how much they add to the sled. Just hope they give it that little extra bite that is needed to eliminate the Push that I have
 
That push is the same problem I am having. Let us know how the curves work out for you.
 
I have a set of powder pro I'm thinking about selling because I think they got alittle to much bite for me , I'm thinking about. Giving curve a try .

Heres my set up so far
90 studs , PP's 6" carbides , rear spring on med , center shock with two more turns of preload , limiter stock and 85 psi in ski shocks , I'm also running with sway bar removed .
 
How do you like it with the sway bar removed? Thats unusal for trail riding.
 
I don't know if I can offer any help or not but I'm on my third season on an F8 SP. It has the 128" track and I'm about 200lbs. It was initially extremely stiff and abrupt in the stutters and pushed in the corners. With weight off the sled I loosened the pretension on the front arm shock till it rattled and then snugged it till it didn't and then about a quarter turn more. Front shocks work about best in the 65psi range. For me, at 70 psi I would get sudden unexpected inside ski lift. At 60psi a bit too much body roll. I put a ten year old pair of USI skis on with shaper bars and there's no push. I had the front shock revalved three times before it was compliant enough for my riding style and also installed a dual rate Hygear spring. Friends have had good luck with a Firecat spring for a lot less money. The chassis is very sensitive to any toe in. Toward the end of last season it began to dart and sure enough it was toed in. Toed it out 1/4" and darting was gone. Others have run the Curves with the leading edge and rave about them. After 5600 miles the chassis is as tight as it was new. I don't know what shocks your sleds came with or how the tension is set but the setup ideas should be similar. I hope something I found out through trial and error helps. Being disappointed after spending so much money sucks.
 
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