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Air KIt

Custom Rx1

Expert
Joined
Jan 16, 2007
Messages
267
I have an 04 worrier. It runs k&n, 165 main, plugs, and sliver springs.
I have a lean spot just over 1/2 open, the needles is all the way up for max gas cant get it out. One other thing i can not get it over 9200rpm. I do not have a cluth kit, Do i need one to make this thing go like stock.
I race the same sled and i get out in front fast 3-4 sleds but on top end he goes right by. Take the kit off dead even. ANY IDES.
 

I have no clue :dunno:. Hear what it dose. i run it and the temp goes way up and back fires take the plugs out there white. I add a little duck tape to the filter a the temp gose down and it runes fine, but when you open it right up on the lake it dies rigth out. like if it is to rich, because you let off and it is fine agin. so it is like lean spot around 1/2 to 3/4 open.
 
This is what i used. It is found on our home page at TY

ECP RX1/RXWARRIOR INSTALL



The following is a list of parts that are included in the ECP Filter Kit.

2 K&N Filters, 2 Pre Filters, 4 – 165 main jets, 4- silver CV springs, 4 temp 10 rated spark plugs. 1 crank case vent filter and oil for the case vent filter.







Once all of the parts are in order/ Remove the air box by loosening the air box clamps, remove front box strap, and crank case vent hose. As you lift the box off carefully, you will see the air box vent drain attached to the lower side of the box. You can remove the clamp and leave the hose in place. This drain will not longer be used.





Before we remove the carbs. Remove the choke cable and throttle cable from the carbs. Then start on one side and remove each black CV cap on the top of the carbs. Each cap will be held in place with 2 phillips head screws. As you remove each final screw from the cap apply slight pressure to the cap. The CV spring is right underneath the cap. As you lift each cap remove them extremely slow and look for the small o-ring that may be stuck to the cap or still in place on the top of the carb. (BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO LOOSE THESE) Also be careful of the carb that the choke bracket is attached. Under that screw there will be a small brass colored spacer that may fall into the belly pan. (BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO LOOSE THIS). Replace the stock CV springs with the new silver springs and reassemble in reverse order replacing all parts in their original position.





Loosen the allen head clamps that hold the carb rack to the rubber intake manifolds. Remove the gas lines from the fuel pump at the pump side that goes to the carbs. Tip carbs away from the engine and pinch off the carb anti-freeze feed hoses at the top and then the hose under the carb rack. Then remove complete carb rack from sled. Before flipping the carbs over be sure to open the drains on the bottom of each float bowl with a Allen head wrench and drain carbs.





Once you have them drained take the carbs to the bench turn the carbs upside down and remove the float bowls. Inspect pilots, float level and fuel screw adjustment per stock spec, and install the new 165 main jets. After all carbs have been inspected and new jets installed. Reinstall the carbs in reverse order. Be sure all anti freeze lines and gas lines are reinstalled.





Follow the direction on oiling the crank case filter and install into crankcase vent hose. Be sure to zip strap filter to fuel pump to help hold it up in place.



Install 1 K&N Filters per 2 carbs , tighten clamps and install prefilters.







Install new spark plugs that came in kit.



Give the sled choke and fire her up. I would suggest a clutch kit to compliment the filter install. The sound is very distinct with filters in place and will give you great joy J
 
i did that, made it rich did not do any thing. What about changing the power jet?
 
blue rocket said:
I have an 04 worrier. It runs k&n, 165 main, plugs, and sliver springs.
I have a lean spot just over 1/2 open, the needles is all the way up for max gas cant get it out. One other thing i can not get it over 9200rpm. I do not have a cluth kit, Do i need one to make this thing go like stock.
I race the same sled and i get out in front fast 3-4 sleds but on top end he goes right by. Take the kit off dead even. ANY IDES.

2 things to try. First, close all you pilot fuel screws down to shut lightly on the seat. Then open them to 1.750 to 2.0 turns open. If that improves but does not cure the problem completely, try moving the clips on the needles down 1 clip psition from the stock number 3 position to the number 4 position. Be 100% certain that you synchronize the carbs before expecting miracles to happen. I cannot express this enough!

Freddie
 
blue rocket said:
I have no clue :dunno:. Hear what it dose. i run it and the temp goes way up and back fires take the plugs out there white. I add a little duck tape to the filter a the temp gose down and it runes fine, but when you open it right up on the lake it dies rigth out. like if it is to rich, because you let off and it is fine agin. so it is like lean spot around 1/2 to 3/4 open.

Sounds to me like you are activating the TORS system.
 
Sounds like you are not getting enough air at that rpm and its turning the air/fuel mixture to rich and it's falling on it's face probably poping and fafrting out the back too.Check to make sure that you have the proper pre filters they might be the wrong ones and not letting enough air to flow at high rpm's.Just my.02
 
I oil the filter and let them dry at the start of the year and thats it. The top end flame out that i get i think is from lack of fuel or float bowl level. I do not know moving the kit to an 04 warrior this year and putting 175 mains in.
Thanks
 
flame out

what do your plug,s look like? on thing to check would be those pesky little screen,s that are snaped to the back side of the needle seat . as i know on two stroke,s these become pluged an have been the cause of many a burn down. that,s why i remove mine asap. also i found that the more mod,s that i did to the moter ie fillter,s cam,s exh,s etc . the fuel pump,s would produce . ie loss of vacum to operate the pump,s so i in stalled an electric fuel pump problem solved. after doing this i ended up at 172.5 ,s for main,s . but i would think that, your fuel screen,s are pluged with micobes. :flag:
 
The plugs look like there white hot no tan. So I had to put tape on the filter to stop the air flow. 1/4 of the filter is duck tape and it fix the problem. but I never hit 10500 rpm i only see 9300 and it falls on its face after about 30sec at wide open. Back off to half it seam to get gas and go. So where are these screans? Thanks for the help
 


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