Intheheartofit
Newbie
Almost got the track off but caught on the nubs inside the tunnel on the chain case side. Trying to upload a picture, but size is limited. I pulled the driveshaft out as far as I could till the drivers get in the way. What am I missing? Can't twist it out? Trying to put a 151 on it.
Also for cutting the track why do people turn inside out for table saw? And more teeth or less teeth on the blade better?
Thanks! Hoping to get this done tomorrow and get riding!
Also for cutting the track why do people turn inside out for table saw? And more teeth or less teeth on the blade better?
Thanks! Hoping to get this done tomorrow and get riding!
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Intheheartofit
Newbie
...
RAMSOMAIR
TY 4 Stroke God
Pull the drive axle out completely and the track will fall out.
Intheheartofit
Newbie
Do the drivers just come off to be able to get it out the speed sensor side?
New to this so no idea just going off write ups on here.
Thanks
New to this so no idea just going off write ups on here.
Thanks
74Nitro
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Take off the metal plate that holds the bearing on the left side.
74Nitro
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https://www.cyclepartsnation.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003c4ebf8700212fc842641/track-drive-1Take off the metal plate that holds the bearing on the left side.
Number seven in this picture.
Intheheartofit
Newbie
Ok, awesome, I took off the other plate, but not that one. I'll take that off when I get home tonight. Any thoughts on that tablesaw question from anyone? Fine teeth or coarse?
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
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Also remove the toothed speed sensor cog on the end of the shaft for extra clearance. Might also have to remove the set screws from that bearing on the shaft so it will slide off.
I cut a track for my son's Phazer. You flip it inside out so it slides easier on the table as the drive lugs aren't as high as the paddles. Set the fence to cut 1/2" off and better to be two guys to do it. Go slowly. We used a carbide coarse blade as there are fiberglass rods inside and the carbide being wider than the blade itself it won't rub as much on the rubber. Used this video as our guide at the time:
Flipping the track is a PITA but worth it.
I cut a track for my son's Phazer. You flip it inside out so it slides easier on the table as the drive lugs aren't as high as the paddles. Set the fence to cut 1/2" off and better to be two guys to do it. Go slowly. We used a carbide coarse blade as there are fiberglass rods inside and the carbide being wider than the blade itself it won't rub as much on the rubber. Used this video as our guide at the time:
Flipping the track is a PITA but worth it.
74Nitro
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I've changed tracks on pretty much every brand of sled there is, and the phazer and nytro drop out plate makes their driveshafts the easiest to remove by far.
Beauty design. Don't even have to remove bearing, speedo sensor pickup if you don't want to.
Beauty design. Don't even have to remove bearing, speedo sensor pickup if you don't want to.
Intheheartofit
Newbie
Ok awesome, that plate made all the difference, thanks! I figured after struggling for 20 minutes trying to get it around those nubs I was on the wrong track. Also now I understand the confusion for cutting the track. See picture, different method. Will be cutting tonight so see how it goes.
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pdiddy
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I may be a simple man, but you just keep removing #*$&@ until you get to what works!
Intheheartofit
Newbie
Finished the 151 mod. Had it out for a spin yesterday and wow does it have way more pickup with the Challenger track. Also doesn't seem to trench as bad and got myself out of some valleys I got sucked into when sidehilling. True test is still to come when hit swamps and brush trails.
The table saw with the track looped around the saw worked, but was pretty rough compared to the video of flipping the track. Might be worth doing that. Ended up trying a coarse and fine toothed blade. Didn't make a difference. Was aiming for 14 1/2 wide and got 14 after. I think the video I saw used a wood spacer so the rubber wouldn't fall down into the saw blade. Seemed to work better with the track between fence and blade vs. the cut-off part between the fence and blade. Bit rough to say the least, fence got pushed too on my saw which didn't help. really kicks through the fiberglass and gets hung up in the lugs.
Only thing checking the '07 service manual looks like they've changed the driven gear bolt to a bigger nut and a cotter pin. Torqued it, but not to much and couldn't find a torque setting sure it'll be fine though, Also forgot a brake shim, whoops but doesn't seem to matter.
Thanks again for all the help! Big improvement and saves me from getting an 800 Polaris this year at least.
The table saw with the track looped around the saw worked, but was pretty rough compared to the video of flipping the track. Might be worth doing that. Ended up trying a coarse and fine toothed blade. Didn't make a difference. Was aiming for 14 1/2 wide and got 14 after. I think the video I saw used a wood spacer so the rubber wouldn't fall down into the saw blade. Seemed to work better with the track between fence and blade vs. the cut-off part between the fence and blade. Bit rough to say the least, fence got pushed too on my saw which didn't help. really kicks through the fiberglass and gets hung up in the lugs.
Only thing checking the '07 service manual looks like they've changed the driven gear bolt to a bigger nut and a cotter pin. Torqued it, but not to much and couldn't find a torque setting sure it'll be fine though, Also forgot a brake shim, whoops but doesn't seem to matter.
Thanks again for all the help! Big improvement and saves me from getting an 800 Polaris this year at least.
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