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Another Drive Shaft Question

Sevey

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Messages
1,742
Location
Collingwood, ON
Website
www.ty4stroke.com
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2018 Sidewinder RTX
Had the caliber assembly off to repack the bearing.

After reassembling and tightening the 3 bolts of the caliper i noticed the shaft could move side to side (lateral movement) about 1 mm. Even with the rotar installed with the circlip - the shaft would still slide back and forth. I have not torqued up the BOP wedge which will stop this or minimize this, but is this common.

I would of thought the 3 caliper bolts would draw the assembly onto the shaft pushing the bearing against the inner clip. - apparently not.

What have others experienced.
MS
 

It has the movement you speak of...normal. That's on 3 winders and 4 vipers in our group, all have it until the BOP McWedgie is installed and tightened.
 
From repairing 4 TCats, it was common for the caliper-side bearing (in that housing) to NOT pull in far enough for the bearing to be against that lock ring. That assumes there is no gap or slack space on the chain case side (both bottom gears are tight against each other and snap ring is tight). Seems like in some cases the bend at the top of the tunnel is not 90 degrees. IF tunnel is less than 90 degrees, then it flares out as it goes down towards caliper housing which means when caliper housing is installed, it will not push bearing up against snap ring (again, assumes both gears on chain case side are tight to each other and snap ring is tight too). I also had one where caliper housing with bearing in it did pull in far enough to have bearing tight against snap ring.
 
BTW- even if the caliper-side bearing (installed in housing) did not come in to contact the shaft snap ring, there was enough room to install the brake rotor and outer snap ring in all of the 4 TCats I repaired.
 
Thanks. Every time I have this thing apart I discovery something else that just doesn’t look right

The more I look at how how this thing is held together - I wonder what the engineers are thinking. The front end of the tunnel on these sleds are built so light.
 
BTW- even if the caliper-side bearing (installed in housing) did not come in to contact the shaft snap ring, there was enough room to install the brake rotor and outer snap ring in all of the 4 TCats I repaired.


If that's the case your rotor would flop around like crazy ?
 
Thanks. Every time I have this thing apart I discovery something else that just doesn’t look right

The more I look at how how this thing is held together - I wonder what the engineers are thinking. The front end of the tunnel on these sleds are built so light.


Light? Not sure how'd you say that. You should see a Doo! I used to bend them straight at least once if not twice maybe three times a season.

The front end of the Procross is the strongest out there IMO. It will take a real beating and not bend. I'm not sure I've ever seen one tweaked unless it was an obvious and extreme hit. The Doo used to get tweaked if you hit anything small, and I've actually bent spindle castings on the old Deltabox chassis too.

I do question what they were thinking with some of the driveline stuff though.
 
Light? Not sure how'd you say that. You should see a Doo! I used to bend them straight at least once if not twice maybe three times a season.

The front end of the Procross is the strongest out there IMO. It will take a real beating and not bend. I'm not sure I've ever seen one tweaked unless it was an obvious and extreme hit. The Doo used to get tweaked if you hit anything small, and I've actually bent spindle castings on the old Deltabox chassis too.

I do question what they were thinking with some of the driveline stuff though.


I like those cast aluminum mounting plates the nytro had that held the engine and the front heat exchanger. That was solid. Lol.

I knew the doos were flimsy but didn’t realiZe they were paper thin as well
Ms
 
If that's the case your rotor would flop around like crazy ?
Not at all. Brake pads hold the rotor centered between them and do not retract when you're not using brakes so the rotor does not flop around.
 
My sled has never needed the strap to get clips on but because of that the rotor is well to the outside of caliper almost hits Caliper. If you look at a bunch of them it really varies.
 
Not at all. Brake pads hold the rotor centered between them and do not retract when you're not using brakes so the rotor does not flop around.
I've had to shim the rotor as have many of us , they will flop around if not tight against the bearing race.
 


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