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Anyone powder coat their A-Arms?

JayM

Expert
Joined
Oct 29, 2018
Messages
476
Age
44
Location
Pickering, ON
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2017 Sidewinder R-TX SE
I have White A-Arms, even when new in the showroom there was a bit of visible rust, now after 1 season/5500km its decently worse. I'm also doing a wrap so I want to get them re-coated in a different color. I'm just not sure if it's possible to powder coat with the ball joints on there?
 

I've had some SW A-arms powder coated and you'll want to remove your ball joints since the rubber boats covering the ball joints will not withstand the heat of the powder coating process. You'll need a fork tool to remove the ball joints, or have a local dealer remove them for you.

It's too bad that the factory paint does not hold up and starts to rust out so soon on the A-arms. A good powder coating will last for quite a few season. Good luck with your new look!
 
I've had some SW A-arms powder coated and you'll want to remove your ball joints since the rubber boats covering the ball joints will not withstand the heat of the powder coating process. You'll need a fork tool to remove the ball joints, or have a local dealer remove them for you.

It's too bad that the factory paint does not hold up and starts to rust out so soon on the A-arms. A good powder coating will last for quite a few season. Good luck with your new look!

Thanks! I agree that removing ball joints would be required, I didn't know they could be removed (and I assume re-installed?) so that's good to know, will reach out to local dealers. I guess if they couldn't be removed I could have had them painted but prefer powder coat for durability.

See pics below, I want to try and match the A-Arms to the high-vis yellow on the wrap. Likely new colored ski loop and maybe a high-vis accent on the seat!

This is my sled:
Screenshot_20190911-221040_OneDrive.jpg


And my Wrap:
Screenshot_20190908-222326_Gmail.jpg
 
I've had some SW A-arms powder coated and you'll want to remove your ball joints since the rubber boats covering the ball joints will not withstand the heat of the powder coating process. . Good luck with your new look!


That pretty much sums it up as 225 degrees at the low end and a longer curing time and 375 degrees and the upper end with a shorter curing time. Anything rubber or plastic will not survive the heat as mentioned above.

I have cheated and managed to do things with rubber still attached.....By putting the pieces in and out of the oven for 5 to 7 minutes at a time with multiple curing sessions...its tricky

GO with taking them apart
 
AWESOME Looking Ride btw:Rockon:

Thank you! Can't wait to wrap it and install what seems like a mountain of parts I've been accumulating which is crazy because I did so much last season already lol
 


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