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If you have studded a 2010 Vector LTX you may want to add 1/8 of flat alum bar to the bottom of your tunnel protectors near the back. You will see fin damage to rear heat exchanger. It may cause more damage in the future if you dont take care of it now.
The dealer puts it on if you have them install the studs.
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks for the tip.
This has been discussed before, but still good to keep good ideas/tips fresh in peoples minds.
I personally used pieces of Hyfax and riveted them to the existing protectors.
This has been discussed before, but still good to keep good ideas/tips fresh in peoples minds.
I personally used pieces of Hyfax and riveted them to the existing protectors.
SledFreak
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Tom, this should be a sticky. This is pretty important.
swmichvector
Expert
i agree, and so should the trick about priming the fuel pump so they start right up. its that time of the year.
Bluebullet
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studs on apex?
Tom, Is this also an issue on the 2010 Apex LTX GT with studs?
Tom, Is this also an issue on the 2010 Apex LTX GT with studs?
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Re: studs on apex?
I would think it maybe if they have the same rear heat exchanger in it.
Bluebullet said:Tom, Is this also an issue on the 2010 Apex LTX GT with studs?
I would think it maybe if they have the same rear heat exchanger in it.
yam429
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I know this should also be done with 2008 Vector LTX's. Just checked my wifes's sled after our first ride and sure enough a little fin contact after installing 1.375 studs.
Homer2002
Newbie
I just bought a new 2010 Vector LTX GT. I will be studding it. What length of stud are you guys using? I have heard everything from 1.325 to 1.375. I had 108 on my Warrior and that was enough. I don't feel the need for 168 or whatever some manufacturers of studs recommend. Seems like a lot of rotating mass to slow me down. I will be adding whatever extra protection is needed to the stock tunnel protectors to ensure no damage.
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1.325 is what I used and you will only need to add material on the back foot or so near the rear exchanger.
MrSled said:1.325 is what I used and you will only need to add material on the back foot or so near the rear exchanger.
I concur. I have 144 - 1.325" and added slides to the back be the rear heat exchanger and no issues.
Homer2002
Newbie
So, you guys find the 1.325" studs have enough penetration? Banks93, how do the snowtrackers stand up to rocks? They look like thin gauge steel, which looks like it would bend or collapse when hitting large rocks under the surface, which we come across in northern Ontario once in a while. I know I want to install something to combat the darting but not at the expense of durability. I need whatever I put on my skis to last a 1000 mile weekend trip.
CaptCaper
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I had to add 1 1/2 in to my 07 Attak with a aftermarket cooler. I just bought my wife a RS Vector LTX and want to stud it. All we need is 1/8 in more? and just over cooler? seems too good to be true.
yam429
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If you're going with 1.375 I would go more than 1/8 inch. I put 1/8 inch buffer on my wifes guards and it still carved up the fins on the heat exchanger.
CaptCaper
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I'll have to go the 1 1/2 inches. A guy with a 09
Apex LTX with OEM cooler (same setup as our 2010 RS LTX I believe) had to go 1 1/2 in. before it stopped ripping up the cooler. I did only about 1" the first time on my Attak and hit the cooler so I did 1 1/2 and it has been fine. So either an aftermarket set up like mine or a OEM we still need 1 1/2 over cooler tappering down to the rear of the upper wheels.
Apex LTX with OEM cooler (same setup as our 2010 RS LTX I believe) had to go 1 1/2 in. before it stopped ripping up the cooler. I did only about 1" the first time on my Attak and hit the cooler so I did 1 1/2 and it has been fine. So either an aftermarket set up like mine or a OEM we still need 1 1/2 over cooler tappering down to the rear of the upper wheels.
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