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APEX CLUTCH KITs???

Yamaha Man

Expert
Joined
Jan 5, 2005
Messages
357
Location
AUBURN, NEW YORK
Hey guys,

Now that I bought a new '07 APEX RTX ER :4STroke: ...I'm looking to buy a clutch kit.

Whats out there?
What do you guys have? Pros/Cons? Do you like them? Why?

My buddies have Ski-Doos and love their Heel Clicker clutch kits...easy to tune and adjust!! Just wondering what else is out there though...

Thanks...I'm all new to Yamaha snowmobiles...rode CATs all my life before this!

John :Rockon:
 

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here's the general consensus ..as i've been asking the same question to many (someone correct me if I'm wrong)..

for the first 1000 - miles...proline or ulmer...heard good and bad on heelclicker (my prior fav on proaction sleds) ...mostly negative on hauck...a few good chime ins on fix...

but then..

when she starts to break in....stock clutching is pretty darn good..not much left....
 
Off topic, lower that front end!!! Try 40-55 psi pull up the limiter one hole, loosen the front skid shock 1/4" close to max on the control rods, and put in a 13mm bar. It will rail!! I like my stock clutching and but will be going to Ulmer for next season to see if there is MORE. Doug
 
The stock clutching was spot on,with the mono skid sleds plus they have taller gearing,this 07 rtx with the 22 top gear will overev with stock clutching,so i have thrown in some dalton and now running my supertips at 10,800 rpms,runs quicker and as fast if not faster than stock overeving clutching,mine at 500 miles was running 11,200 on the top,with stock everything,now it runs 10,800 and runs 110 plus gps on crappy snow.
 
I have some questions on the clutch kits.

Everyone asks about best clutch kits, basically a hard accelerating, trailable setup fro drag racing their buddies.

But all of the kits appear to be designed from 2 stroke "power curve" technology. Yamaha appears to use a heavier flat profile weight, due to the flat torque curve of the 4 stroke.

I'm thinking Yamaha uses this style of weight to keep rpm's lower during trail riding, when the sled isn't at WOT, hence engine will last longer. These motors have plenty or torque down low to move these sleds without being wound up.

Is anyone making a weigh profile to fit this & improving on Yamaha's design?
 
Yes if you talk to dale at dalton,he has a very agressive curv weight,but it has the same feature that yamaha want in there clutch,the way his weight untucks itself when needed,he was with yamaha up in alaska when they first started testing there big weights,sense they started the 4-stroke motors in sleds,and that is the reason yammi has to have the big heavy tipped weights and the heavy arms to achieve the same thing dale did with his much lighter,but different profile type weights,dale said that yammi went with the heavy mass weights to try and stop belt slippage and damaged clutch sheave faces..
 
I played with hc,s today on my attak. Got the thing just flying using the 40/20,s with a p-g-p primary spring. Needed more time to dial it in 100% but it pulls hard in a drag test vs my buds revs against stock clutching same day same conditions.
 
For you guys with the Ulmer stage 2 clutch kits....how does she pull? I want something that's nice out of the whole and pulls hard!!! Also, is it adjustable like the heel clicker?

Any pro's or cons on the Ulmer Stage 2???


Thank you
 
I have a Bender kit which uses the Heel Clicker primary weights. I love it, and it made a massive difference in low to mid range power. I put it on at about 600 miles, and now have just over 1000. I think I need to add a little more weight to the tip due to the motor breaking in. It ran to 11000 first off, backshifted to 10800 and ran awesome, now it is starting to hit the rev limiter when I first hammer it. Oh wel, snow's gone so testing will resume next season.
I'm one of the few guys running a Bender kit, but they are awesome. Bender has been out of the spotlight for a while, but they have been at it a long, long time and are great to deal with.
Nate
 
the bender of old is gone (essentially) ....they are now owned and operated by Rich Daly of Dynoport....

turk....please keep us posted...tx
 
I run Super Torquer clutching in both clutches and it is awesome. The acceleration is great and top end is also good. I ran 139 on the speedo last year on glare ice. This is when I was clutching at 10,200.
 
Yamaha Man said:
For you guys with the Ulmer stage 2 clutch kits....how does she pull? I want something that's nice out of the whole and pulls hard!!! Also, is it adjustable like the heel clicker?

Any pro's or cons on the Ulmer Stage 2???

I am running my owne version of the ulmer kit,i got the advice straight from allens lips,and it was very close right out of the gate,he is one of the best guys to talk to,also dale from dalton was another guy who has a welth of info on clutching in general,as he makes his owne ramps (weights) whatever you want to call them,i have been a poo and cat guy forever,and now have been with yammi sense there 03 rx1 all for the exception of my brain disorder in 05 when the dark side tempted me to come back and get a fusion,sense then for one season of terrible PAIN in have returned,and not looked back sense. Now we never used to have adjustable weights in mt racing days so we used to have a case of preground weights to keep trying,heck we never even had multi angle helixs,to play with,but with all this stuff it just makes things more difficult to get everything to work in unision,and i already had to differant sets of supertip weights,they come in various base weights,and unlike the big twins that i was playing with,because of there small in comparision torque amount compared to a large twin,and high rpm range they make hp at,they need altogeather differant ramp and weight profile design,but they can rip out of the hole just like a 2-smoke when set up,heck even when broke in they will now run right to 10,200 and climb from there to 11,000,but that leaves alot on the table from corner to corner,so long post to answer your question,yes i like my supertip set up that is ulmer based,and now i like my dalton set up,but i am still working on that one,the biggest thing between the two set ups are the weights,they are both adjustable,but they are vary differant in there application,one uses stock yammi rivets and the other uses washers and screws to adjust,one is user friendly in the field,the other not so user friendly,now i would recommend supertip set up for the average guy,just because of this user friendly set up,and stage 2 is all allen has that is complete and ready to go,ya you can just get his stage 1 weights only,but you are only doing half the job,unless you have the know how to cut your owne helix and do set up,alot of testing has been done by alot of use on here,including myself and his kit is bolt in and go,and if you buy any of the other guys complete kit they are the same,bolt in and go,but the supertip kit is the easier to adjust right at your motel or even on the trail if you have a torxe screwdriver and a 10mm wrench ok an 8mm to,for weights,but my point is its much easier to adjust,now i have Heel clickers but have lost alot of faith with them,for top end running and belt temps. and i ran H.H. weights in my rx1 for best results back then before i started working with the supertip weights,so now i have abandoned them hh for S.T. weights too,so ball is in your court now,i think you have enough info to help now. Pete
Thank you
 
Snow man it seems the most specific to 4 stroke power is by FIX power sports, the guys who have this just rave do a search to learn more.
It is more than a standard clutch kit you can see their web site for details. I spoke to Jerry Fix and he is happy every body loves the top end (uses custom wide belt to 'overdrive') but claims it best feature and what it was designed for is back shift and acceleration, for corner to corner trail rocket was the sales pitch to me.


I am interested then think geeze this thing is a rocket NOW.

Yamadoo :4STroke:
 


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