Apex gt shock problem

Darren Betker

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Location
Dryden
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Canada
Snowmobile
apex gt
06 gt with electric ohlins. Had it rebuilt and calibrated to my weight last christmas. Worked flawlessly for all last season after rebuilt but this season it has stopped being able to be handlebar adjusted. Cant even bring the shock icon up on my dash. Ideas?
 
wires still connected? i read they where bad for breaking the wiring harness off from ice build up on it.
 
Either the solenoid in the shock has gone for a dump or the wires are broken.
 
Ok. Finally got my sled up on the hoist and sure enough the wires /disconector came apart. So i wired it all up again......black to black and white to brown........and i still cant get my dash to bring up the little shock avatar. Is there a fuse somewhere that coulda blown?..... is the problem in my dash itself?...... di i get the colors of the wires correct on install?
Just had the entire shock rebuilt/recalibrated to my weight and new big boy spring installed. What am i missing?
 
That circuit is fused. If the broken feed wire was grounded it would have popped the fuse. If you look at the little fuse block on the right side of the sled under hood, I think it’s labelled......if not, could someone with the correct fuse location info help this guy out? I haven’t had an older style Apex to play with in quite a few years.
 
Thanx for the help but all fuses checked and all are good. Still cant get the mode button to bring up the shock avatar. The shock shows for a brief moment when all avatars are lit up all at once when key is first turned on so i know its not the screen. But other then that im lost. Starting to regret buying the GT
 
Problem is i was 30 lbs heavier last winter and had the shock set at the stiffest setting when i lost it.....so now my #*$&@ gets bounced of the seat like im on a brick.
 
I’ve read more than once that the shock goes to a default of an ECU signal is not present, and I believe it’s 70% firm, not full hard. Sounds like your spring/revalve combo is simply too stiff for the new and improved you.
 
Well now i have a new problem. Apon removal again i ripped the wires right out of the end of the shock. Does anyone know how i can remove the large black plug out og the top of the shock so i can try to repair/resolder the wires
 
What was yamaha thinking with this crap. How does putting tiny wires in such a violent enviroment make any sence to anyone.
 
Oh well. Guess i will wait till summer and send it away to be repaired properly. Got the cap off but busted it in doing so.
 
Well now i have a new problem. Apon removal again i ripped the wires right out of the end of the shock. Does anyone know how i can remove the large black plug out og the top of the shock so i can try to repair/resolder the wires
There is no way that I know of to remove the solenoid without destroying it. Ya have to chisel the top off to remove it. Sounds like a new one is in order.
After replacing more than a few of those myself, ya learn to run the wire harness extremely well and zip tie the heck out of it.
 
I didn’t have too much trouble with wires, but really struggled to get an entire season out of a seal kit in those Ohlins GT shocks. It would start leaking oil pretty much every spring. I finally gave up and replaced it with a KYB with custom valving. It worked just as well, and lasted forever. I still have it on a shelf if you’re interested in it.
 
I have over 14,000 miles on my 08 Apex LTX GT with the electric Ohlins shock and the only issue I had with it was a bad solenoid. I had it replaced while I had Bruce revalve the shock and then in 2017 when I had Hygear revalve the shock again, the solenoid was still good. I do follow this wiring diagram meticulously and have not had a broken wire. Although you were able to remove the solenoid, I thought I would pass this tech update along as well as the wiring diagram.
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