Barn of Parts New Driveshaft Solution

[hibshman25]

With the 22 shaft supposedly being hardened I have concern that the driveshaft expander will not work. My 22 is finally in and I'm hoping to get it next week and start testing. Deep down I've always wanted a solution that will work on a worn shaft as well so I have a whole new concept that I'm working on. I dropped hints of this in a few posts and I'm sure many are eager to see what I'm up to, but I'm keeping this disclosed for now so the competition doesn't have all summer to copy it.

I could use some feedback on a few things.

All the worn driveshafts I see indicate that the caliper bearing never really seats against the inner clip. My new concept requires removal of the clip and just curious if anyone sees any concerns with this that I may be overlooking.

I find it ironic Cat went the extra mile to place an oil on the inside of the tunnel to protect the bearing. The bearing seal is nearly fully protected against debris inside the caliper. For my new idea to work I would be doing away with this inner seal. Is anyone going to balk at this if we have 100% certainty you will not spin a driveshaft with my new concept? Afterall the bearing is supposed to be the consumable item....not driveshafts.

 

[FrozenTows4]

The way I see it, the clip is to balance the lateral force between the chaincase & caliper bearings.
Without the clip, the chaincase bearing with take the full hit of driveshaft lateral movement.
The 2 bearings need to share the load.
Given the hostile environment, that the driveshaft lives in, I would say the seal should be retained.

I pack grease, behind the seal, in an attempt to prevent as much water intrusion as possible.



My New 2020 shafts & bearings worked flawless with your existing wedge design. Took less than 20ftlbs to get snug. Final torque 45ftlbs.
6000 miles and holding strong.

Will be interesting to see your new concept. Thanks for the great work!

 

[74Nitro]

That seal is for additional protection against snow, ice and water. Notice the moisture drain at the bottom of the flange. I think it adds to the life of the bearing, but I guess it depends on if you value shaft life more.

 

[NYTurbo]

THe whole design is flawed. Bearing should be pressed on shaft then caliper housing press fit onto bearing. One may get away with a locking collar on a bearing and throw away the inside seal .

 

[cannondale27]

If bearing is truly locked on shaft the clip is not needed. I would consider using the old original style of earless clip on chaincase side to make up for the loss of the one on brake side though. I think they are stronger than the ear style new clips. I think I know where you are going with this. As for the extra seal it might be more for keeping water off the Caliper and brake loss because of it more so than for bearing protection. Thats a big hole. Always wondered why they had that piece on there. Perhaps the seal could be removed and a O-ring used?

 

[Sevey]

The inner ring the bearing is supposed to set against i believe has some importance - Given how sloppy everything is, i imagine it keeps that shaft somewhat aligned. I may feel different if it was pressed together with much tighter tolerances.

The tunnel seal offers very little protection. Sure it keeps debris and water off the bearing a bit but On the axys and matryx sleds - on the clutch side in the tunnel - both jack and driveshaft bearing seals are fully exposed.

MS

 

[FrozenTows4]

...The tunnel seal offers very little protection. Sure it keeps debris and water off the bearing a bit but On the axys and matryx sleds - on the clutch side in the tunnel - both jack and driveshaft bearing seals are fully exposed...

That tunnel seal offers much protection. Axys & Matryx bearings get pounded under there since it's naked. Their failure rate is exponentially greater than the ProCross system. Let's not look to Polaris as a bench mark of bearing life expectancy.

 

[74Nitro]

The more I think about it, the more I realize that clip does nothing. The shaft is held in place from the chaincase side.

 

[Sevey]

That tunnel seal offers much protection. Axys & Matryx bearings get pounded under there since it's naked. Their failure rate is exponentially greater than the ProCross system. Let's not look to Polaris as a bench mark of bearing life expectancy.

Agreed - their bear failure rate lately is abysmal - but their recent problems with bearings is more to do with bearing quality vs exposed seals IMO. My indy xc has got great life from its drive bearings.
MS

 

[Turboflash]

The more I think about it, the more I realize that clip does nothing. The shaft is held in place from the chaincase side.

Chain case side bearing is not pressed on either. It also floats on track shaft. Not sure why that seems to not be a problem like brake side is?
The two snap rings on opposite ends of the shaft keep the shaft "centered."

 

[NYTurbo]

Chaincase side the driveshaft can’t go any where its held by the step in the driveshaft and circlip that holds the gears on.

 

[cannondale27]

Chain case side bearing is not pressed on either. It also floats on track shaft. Not sure why that seems to not be a problem like brake side is?
The two snap rings on opposite ends of the shaft keep the shaft "centered."

Because its oiled. I have to say the one I know of that has not spun on Brake side the guy has always used a Aircraft grease in bearing very very cold rated and light grease. His shaft is also rusted big time. In this case rust is your friend!

 

[cannondale27]

These are two that spun from my sled. I would say both were up against the clip. Is a big Radius on the ID of the bearing so it just looks like bearing is not against the clip. I would not be comfortable losing the clip based on my sled.

 

[THEPASMAN]

Travis I’m sure your idea is going to have merit. My thoughts on it are the simpler the better and I have your driveshaft saver in all four of my sidewinders. Over time as I have the shafts out for maintenance my plan is to put opposing set screws in the shaft and be done with it. Tightens them-after a shaft run in. Either that or the pin and groove in the bearing then if that bearing is supposed to float it can. All three have merit.

I’m intrigued to see what you are working on

 

[KnappAttack]

I tried a set screw and loctite prior to the wedge and it had just started to spin the bearing prior to removal. So don't think that set screws or loctite will work. It may be a hit or miss. Mine started to spin and its a good thing I took it apart to check it.

Now if you ground a dimple in the bearing race for the set screw to sit into you would have a much better chance, but IMO the best fix so far is the BOP wedge for a better outcome.

I wouldn't want the circlip or seal to go away without something to replace it.