BDX helix setting question

RTX

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those of you running the bdx brand helix might or might not be aware the spring wrap holes are in different locations than on the stock yamaha helix.

I was considering drilling my spring holes to match the stock yamaha helix and then engraving the correct numbers but before i do that, i wanted to try the helix as is.

Looking to see what guys with this helix are using for the spring wrap.
 
those of you running the bdx brand helix might or might not be aware the spring wrap holes are in different locations than on the stock yamaha helix.

I was considering drilling my spring holes to match the stock yamaha helix and then engraving the correct numbers but before i do that, i wanted to try the helix as is.

Looking to see what guys with this helix are using for the spring wrap.


Well what the hell is the point of that??? Ill never buy one of those darn things... must be cheap.
 
Well what the hell is the point of that??? Ill never buy one of those darn things... must be cheap.

I have access to a full machine shop and was trained in school then spent 4 years working as a machinist so while things like this might be difficult or time cosuming for others its easy/second nature to me.
Yes. It was far cheaper than the dalton. And even with this issue i would purchase it again.
I have tons of time. I dont have tons of money.

To be honest with you its not too big of a deal and if needed i can figure out a close wrap to the stock setup.
Just would rather not waste extra time standing in the cold wrenching on my sled when i could be riding .
Was thinking a simple post might provide the answer i need
 
I have access to a full machine shop and was trained in school then spent 4 years working as a machinist so while things like this might be difficult or time cosuming for others its easy/second nature to me.
Yes. It was far cheaper than the dalton. And even with this issue i would purchase it again.
I have tons of time. I dont have tons of money.

To be honest with you its not too big of a deal and if needed i can figure out a close wrap to the stock setup.
Just would rather not waste extra time standing in the cold wrenching on my sled when i could be riding .
Was thinking a simple post might provide the answer i need


I was wondering why they would go thru the effort to make them different..... why not mod them then if you have the ability... I am all for that. I would take some calipers and micrometers and get the measurement u need to make them correct or even better stick a correct one into a mill and index them, could even create a template.
 
I would just send it back so its made right. That hole error really caused some confusion for me when working on one this weekend. Let them deal with it.
 
I would just send it back so its made right. That hole error really caused some confusion for me when working on one this weekend. Let them deal with it.

Thanks for the input but like i stated already, if i cant get any info on a sucessful set up someone is using then i will just drill it and stamp or engrave the correct numbers on it. Its not all that difficult for me.
I would be doing it at work so i get paid to fix the problem, lol
 
I know but then what about everyone else? Is same with Yamaha. We encourage working with dealer so problems get reported otherwise they never get fixed and everyone suffers.
 
I was wondering why they would go thru the effort to make them different..... why not mod them then if you have the ability... I am all for that. I would take some calipers and micrometers and get the measurement u need to make them correct or even better stick a correct one into a mill and index them, could even create a template.

If you saw it in person it would be easier to understand.
i believe the casting it is cut from is different than the stock yamaha casting.
In my opinion The numbers are cast into it in the wrong location
I dont think bdx intentionally makes them wrong and they might not even be aware the spring hole locations are off.

Either way it looks like i will just end up drilling new spring holes. Might as well check the spring pocket depth and machine that too if needed
 
I know but then what about everyone else? Is same with Yamaha. We encourage working with dealer so problems get reported otherwise they never get fixed and everyone suffers.

Not busting balls, just asking.
Did you send the one you were working with back?
If so, then bdx should be aware of the issue.
Ill just send them an email describing the problem
 
those of you running the bdx brand helix might or might not be aware the spring wrap holes are in different locations than on the stock yamaha helix.

I was considering drilling my spring holes to match the stock yamaha helix and then engraving the correct numbers but before i do that, i wanted to try the helix as is.

Looking to see what guys with this helix are using for the spring wrap.

To be honest I think that they all should be chucked in the recycling bin as trying to gauge the error will just create confusion. To my naked eye the error is about the diamter of the stud hole which would land the holes on top of each other.

I called Jeff at BDX and he seemed to have no concern. The original casting was made as a mirror image not a duplicate so the holes were originally way off. When I expressed my concerns I was told that the difference between the way off holes and the correct holes was only xx many RPM yada yada yada. I've made comments in passing more than once here, but I thank RTX for bringing this up in a thread of it's own.
 
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The original casting was made as a mirror image not a duplicate so the holes were originally way off.

This is the error that occured (mirroring the image) as I talked to Jeff myself and has corrected the hole pattern problem. Jeff at Black Diamond Xtreme has been very helpful.

To help in this situation, the helix is a good helix and works well when setup correctly. To correctly setup or match what the wrap percentage would be....

1) Take apart your secondary and grab your stock helix and pink spring.
2) act like your going to install your spring/helix at your desired wrap in this case would be 3-3
3) Take the sloppyness out of the spring like you were just going to twist it clockwise (BUT DON"T START TWISTING) Use the same amount of pressure between both stock and aftermarket helix;s
4) Take a black magic marker and mark where the tip of the ramp is and the nearest mounting hole on the helix would be.
5) Grab your helix (and it can be any aftermarket helix) and use all the holes to find the closest that matches up. Mine ended up being 1 in the secondary and 3 in the helix. Now I am at 0 and 3
6) Install your helix.

It all goes by twist pressure and feel mostly.
 
To help in this situation, the helix is a good helix and works well when setup (fudged) correctly. To correctly setup or match what the wrap percentage would be....

The gross error of the casting has been corrected, but the precision is lacking. Why cut a piece on the latest hi tech CNC machine and then come and manually drill the holes so that they are still incorrect? Build a drill jig and set them up to match the OE identically.

I did a similar fudge test with mine. I did not mark the tip, I referenced the tower hole. It was approx the diameter of the hole off. The other aftermarket helix that I have matches perfectly. Fudging the wrap will only cause confusion.
 


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