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Bettter Quality Replacement bearings?

Joined
Feb 20, 2013
Messages
138
Age
55
Location
Ontario
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2017 Sidewinder LTS-SE Black/ Orange, 2012 xf1100lxr Green
LOCATION
Kanata, Ontario
I have a bearing going bad behind the brake on the drive shaft. While I have it out I want to change the other three. Does any one have a good place to source SKF or NTN bearings and their part numbers in Canada?

Thanks

Jester
 

Bottom 6009. I use Nachi but i know SKF are better.
6206 up in chaincase and behind drive in 6206 but different ID. (Dealer only, koyo made in japan)
 
Thanks Byam, I will look into those. Cheers

Jester
 
Even if I can get the one behind the brake and lower chain case. The one behind the clutch looks good so far.

Jester
 
Byam,

Do you know id that bottom bearing has any numbers after IE 6009-2RS or 6009-2RSJ

Thanks
 
I have a bearing going bad behind the brake on the drive shaft. While I have it out I want to change the other three. Does any one have a good place to source SKF or NTN bearings and their part numbers in Canada?


Thanks

Jester

It is interesting...when I worked in maintenance at ge (when I left, the stock took a dumper..lol!) we had an in house supplier..Kaman Bearing, so naturally I ordered the best idler wheel bearings they had that fit...maybe skf...but expensive. Don't last any longer than a 5 dollar bearing! I needle grease them all and have yet to have a failure on one I greased. This even goes back to my late 90''s ski doos, and all subsequent sleds. And a friend's speedometer side axle bearing siezed on a low miles anniversary Vector...original Japanese equipment. ..dry as a bone. He now needle greases them... (ok, I do for him..lol). Just some thoughts on bearings.
 
How many miles on that failed bearing? I haven't heard of many of those going bad even in the Vipers. I drilled the driveshaft on mine and placed a set screw from inside to lock that bearing to the shaft. It is just friction fit now and i have seen some driveshafts wear out.
 
It is interesting...when I worked in maintenance at ge (when I left, the stock took a dumper..lol!) we had an in house supplier..Kaman Bearing, so naturally I ordered the best idler wheel bearings they had that fit...maybe skf...but expensive. Don't last any longer than a 5 dollar bearing! I needle grease them all and have yet to have a failure on one I greased. This even goes back to my late 90''s ski doos, and all subsequent sleds. And a friend's speedometer side axle bearing siezed on a low miles anniversary Vector...original Japanese equipment. ..dry as a bone. He now needle greases them... (ok, I do for him..lol). Just some thoughts on bearings.

You are the first guy to mention using a needle grease tip. I do it this way as well, makes packing a bearing very easy to do.
 
You are the first guy to mention using a needle grease tip. I do it this way as well, makes packing a bearing very easy to do.
Super easy! Just a little thumb pressure over the injections site, until it oozes out!
 
How many miles on that failed bearing? I haven't heard of many of those going bad even in the Vipers. I drilled the driveshaft on mine and placed a set screw from inside to lock that bearing to the shaft. It is just friction fit now and i have seen some driveshafts wear out.

Bearing is an issue due to no collar and set screw, then it spins on shaft. Alot of guys are now having this issue without a ton of miles too. I peened my shaft, but would like a better solution.

Anychance you took some pics of what you did? I think this is something we all will have an issue with sooner or later and needs a fix.

Dan
 
some industrial bearings also had an eccentric flange on the inner race and a mating lock collar with an eccentric flange, rotate them against each other and the cam action grips the shaft which also serves to center the shaft a bit more in the bearing bore vs all the way to one side. If you really wanted to get fancy some bearings have slight undersize sizes available. a really good bearing house can help. Kaman is top notch in aviation. A better bearing like timken/SKF is well worth the extra $$ there are plenty of ways to make a cheaper same size bearing which will not last as long, any engineer knows this. Having a shaft with more than .003" loose fit is part of the problem because lack of concentricity means imbalance means shorter bearing life. if this was an endurance race scenario i would plate or plasma spray the shaft journals and grind them for a .002/.003 loose fit. In theory green loctite is an option but I'm not sure it would last. prick punching (is this what you did Dan?) may be the best readily done solution shy of major work.
 
some industrial bearings also had an eccentric flange on the inner race and a mating lock collar with an eccentric flange, rotate them against each other and the cam action grips the shaft which also serves to center the shaft a bit more in the bearing bore vs all the way to one side. If you really wanted to get fancy some bearings have slight undersize sizes available. a really good bearing house can help. Kaman is top notch in aviation. A better bearing like timken/SKF is well worth the extra $$ there are plenty of ways to make a cheaper same size bearing which will not last as long, any engineer knows this. Having a shaft with more than .003" loose fit is part of the problem because lack of concentricity means imbalance means shorter bearing life. if this was an endurance race scenario i would plate or plasma spray the shaft journals and grind them for a .002/.003 loose fit. In theory green loctite is an option but I'm not sure it would last. prick punching (is this what you did Dan?) may be the best readily done solution shy of major work.
Or knurl it if the axle''s out and you have a lathe available...
 
Guys 4 little peen marks and clean grease is all thats needed. Dont Loctite its a bugger to remove. If shaft is wore bad buy a new one.
 


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