bleeding brakes?

[XP123]

I've bled more brakes than I care over the years. I had to bleed the Winder brakes after splitting the caliper and I'm still dealing with a spongy lever. Any tricks or ideas. One of my 1200 Doo's gave me trouble a few years ago but I eventually got it to work to my liking. With the Winder it looks like I got rid of all the air but the lever isn't the way I like it feels spongy.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

I spent some time yesterday dealing with the “possible” axle bearing spin on the brake side and realized I would be “splitting” the caliper to service the bearing from now on. This will result in the need to bleed the brake system upon re-assembly.

I would presume a “gravity bleed” procedure would do the trick. Did you just open the bleeder for a time, making sure there was always sufficient fluid in the master, and let it flow?

 

[Shagnos]

On my race car I gently tap the caliper to release any clinging internal air bubbles to get a rock solid pedal. Try that on the Winder if everything else is correct.

 

[Motorhead]

I took the cap off the reservoir and adjusted the rubber diaphragm, then topped off with new oil. I then opened the bleeder, squeezed the brake lever to the bar and without letting go of the lever, I then closed off the bleeder.
It should be a steady stream of fluid without air, if not repeat until no air blurts out of bleeder at all, just fluid.

Just like new, 1 finger brake that is very touchy.

 

[krm]

I took the cap off the reservoir and adjusted the rubber diaphragm, then topped off with new oil. I then opened the bleeder, squeezed the brake lever to the bar and without letting go of the lever, I then closed off the bleeder.
It should be a steady stream of fluid without air, if not repeat until no air blurts out of bleeder at all, just fluid.

Just like new, 1 finger brake that is very touchy.

JOE.just like this .

 

[XP123]

I took the cap off the reservoir and adjusted the rubber diaphragm, then topped off with new oil. I then opened the bleeder, squeezed the brake lever to the bar and without letting go of the lever, I then closed off the bleeder.
It should be a steady stream of fluid without air, if not repeat until no air blurts out of bleeder at all, just fluid.

Just like new, 1 finger brake that is very touchy.

Yep that's what I did several times and I had a steady flow no air. To me it still feels spongy. How high are you filling the reservoir? I filled it to the high mark but when you put the rubber diaphragm and cover on it will overflow a bit.

 

[Motorhead]

Yep that's what I did several times and I had a steady flow no air. To me it still feels spongy. How high are you filling the reservoir? I filled it to the high mark but when you put the rubber diaphragm and cover on it will overflow a bit.

Not if you collapse the rubber diaphragm before putting it back on. Yes I filled to the high mark.

My brake lever has no spongy feel to it.

 

[Motorhead]

I had to collapse the rubber diaphragm because of last years bleeding without adding oil, so the rubber diaphragm did it’s job and followed the oil as it drained during last years bleeding. So this year I needed to add before bleeding again.

Should be a very sensitive feel to the brake lever. I’m sure you know what yours felt like prior.

 

[KnappAttack]

When you introduce air into the system it is a bugger to get it all out. Small tiny air bubbles tend to adhere to the line and all internal parts. You need to tap on the line and all components to get the bubbles to rise to the highest points, make sure there are no bends in the line to trap these air bubbles at too.

I would never split the caliper for this reason. It's a genuine bitch to get all the air out.

We used to put steel braided lines on our crotch rockets back in the day and it just took many hours to work out all the air. The bubbles are so minute but you have to get them all out of there.

Leave the cover off and you'll be able to see all the tiny bubbles coming out out of the master cylinder as you work the lever a bit, but be very careful to not get any brake fluid on the plastic or any other painted parts. You really have to work at it Joe to get all that air out of the system.

 

[Motorhead]

When you introduce air into the system it is a bugger to get it all out. Small tiny air bubbles tend to adhere to the line and all internal parts. You need to tap on the line and all components to get the bubbles to rise to the highest points, make sure there are no bends in the line to trap these air bubbles at too.

I would never split the caliper for this reason. It's a genuine bitch to get all the air out.

We used to put steel braided lines on our crotch rockets back in the day and it just took many hours to work out all the air. The bubbles are so minute but you have to get them all out of there.

Leave the cover off and you'll be able to see all the tiny bubbles coming out out of the master cylinder as you work the lever a bit, but be very careful to not get any brake fluid on the plastic or any other painted parts. You really have to work at it Joe to get all that air out of the system.

The rotor/caliper comes off easy but going back on is tough. So by taking the pads off and reinstalling once the rotor is back on, works nice. As long as you put the pads back on the same side that they came off, otherwise you will have to bleed the system to prevent the brakes from binding.

 

[WVTurboLTX]

I vaccume bled mine yesterday. Solid lever and really easy. My oil extractor has a hose that fits on the bleeder.

 

[cannondale27]

Put the parking brake on and try it in the morning. Has always worked for getting that last little bit of air out for me.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

I vaccume bled mine yesterday. Solid lever and really easy. My oil extractor has a hose that fits on the bleeder.

I would suspect vacuum bleeding is done on the assembly line. It is a quick efficient method.

 

[STAIN]

Bleeding brakes on small brake systems like these and motorcycles sucks. Trying to pump bleed can take FOREVER!! The best way is a vacuum bleeder, its quick and easy and mess free.
If you don't have a vacuum bleeder you can take a spray nozzle out of a spray bottle and attach a hose from the spray bottle end to the bleeder. Now pump the handle until brake fluid comes out. Be carful where you point it!!! Have an extra waste bottle to catch the fluid. I did this in a pinch years ago when installing braided brake line on my bike.

 

[@123]

can anyone send pics for that brake,caliper and bearing removal that be nice!!!! i never did this and i didn’t see any pics or vids that would be nice!!!