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Brand New to the Nytro game but I'm going all in!

edge_232

Expert
Joined
Jan 15, 2014
Messages
254
Age
50
Location
Madison WI
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2011 Nytro MTX slowly being modded
2005 IQR Trail Converted
So I'm brand new to the Nytro 4 stroke and even Yami game. Always been a Polaris guy and still am but they can't make a 4 stroke to save their lives and that's why I got the Nytro. About three quarters away through the season I bought a 2011 Nytro MTX with a Push Turbo and AC M8 153" float skid under it and the rest all stock, but not for long since I have a sickness and can't leave things alone. LOL I have to say I'm very impressed with the sled except for the common Nytro issues.
So over the summer I will begin my laundry list of mods I've researched on TY. This forum is great for people posting their mods and how to. So I'll try to thank the guys I acquired the mods and ideas from. Here's the sled in it's starting form.
 

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So I finished my first mod this weekend the Parking brake delete using the Arctis Cat brake assembly.
Thanks to Breese (I believe it was his post) and A lot of thanks to Off Trail Mike for helping me with this switch wiring. Beside just using the normal AC brake assembly, I used the one with the built in Hi/Low beam switch that is actuated by the lever. Here's a little write up on what and how I did it. Please let me know if it makes sense and is easy enough to understand.
This has two options
1. Replace the stock park brake assembly with AC wildwood assemble (most 02 and older sled)& keeping the stock switch housing
2.Replace the entire assembly (park/brake/switch housing) with the Arctic Cat bake assemble that has the lever actuated Hi/Low Beam switch in Lever (allows you to delete the stock switch). The AC assemble you will need to come from one of these sleds: Part #s Brake Assy. 1602-364, Dimmer Switch 0609-548, Lever 1602-363
03-06 Firecats 500/700
03 Z440, ZL 600/800, ZR 800/900
04-06 Firecat/Sabercat 500/600/100

Option 1
You will need everything except the circled pieces.

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AC Brake Assembly (inc. 2-14) Part number 0602-943 Replaces 0602-831
Now take off the Yamaha brake assembly. The item circled in red will need to be cut off with a Dremel or something. You either need to trim the Yamaha banjo bolt down to fit the cat cylinder or use the bolt below:

Earl's #361-977503
Brake Banjo Bolt
3/8''-24
.425" Banjo Height

Two things to make this bolt fit:

1. Shortened the banjo bolt threads slightly

2. Drill out a small ridge at the bottom of the mating threads (in the reservoir part) to give the banjo bolt some additional threads to bite into. If you look at the bottom of hole where you screw in the banjo bolt, there is a 1/2 donut shape at the bottom that prevents the bolt from threading in very far. I think I used a drill bit slightly smaller than the thread diameter (5/16" ??) to get rid of the ridge. I didn't drill much, maybe a 1/16 to 1/8" of cut, so you only gain a thread or two. Now clean the hole, assemble, and bled the system.


Now the Plunger style AC Brake switch needs to be wired up to the Yami. Splice AC's brake stop switch red wire to the Yamaha wire with a red line and the yellow with Yamaha’s other. Bolt the Cat side and Yamaha side and you’re done.
Option 2
To make the Lever actuated Hi/Low switch work you will need to do:
1. 1. Cut the common yellow jumper between the brake and light circuits (so you don’t over load the Nytro circuits)
2. 2. Cut the white wire from its Hi/Low switch connection & re-solder it to the Brake common connect (brake side of the yellow common you cut in step one)
3. 3. Now the white & red wires will be for the brake switch & the yellow & blue wires will be for the Hi/Low switch
4. 4. Re-assemble the switch to the lever
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Now this will allow you to delete the bake brake and Hi/Low switch at the same time.
 
I also did the OFT steering relocation on the sled right away when I first got as well. That made a huge difference and is a fairly inexpensive mod for what the outcome is. Plus Rick is a great guy to work with at OFT.
 
I had a little time last night so I decided to do the moto-cross style fuel tank vent I saw on Nikolai sled build. Since I race moto cross I thought it would be a cool mod and it gives you a different look. All I did was drill and tap the center of the fuel cap with a 1/4" pipe thread and threaded a 1/4" x 1/8" brass nipple into it. Then to make sure the fitting stays in the cap I but some epoxy the back side just to be save.
 

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Congrats on your new nytro and welcome to yamaha.
nice write up.
Even though i dont own a nytro, i have a buddy with one so i follow them just out of curiosity.
Its always great to see when people take the time to document thier mods.
Cant wait to see what else you plan on doing.
 
To finish off the left side of the handle bars I installed my new hand / Thumb warmer switch. Originally I wanted to try and relocate the stock blue rocker switch but I could not figure out how to secure the switch without making it permanently mounted. So I just got a DPDT momentary (on)- off- momentary (on) toggle switch with a water proof boot. The momentary part means the switch returns back to center once you push it forward or back, just like the stock blue rocker. You can find them all over the web and I got mine on E-bay $10 for 2 of them. This toggle will work just like your stock blue rocker switch. Push the toggle forward or back and it will bump the hand or thumb warmers up one level.
The main thing to remember is to connect the black wires from the stock switch to the center terminal of the new switch. Then the yellow/white and yellow/blue wires on opposite ends of the new switch. Be sure to test the switch before you finish mounting and to have the yellow/white wire side of the switch facing the front of the sled. This way its in the same operation sequence as your stock switch (Push forward for hand warmers and backwards for thumb warmer).

If you have An questions as and I can post more pictures if need be. I mounted the toggle near my teether switch (left side of the bars).
 

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OTM you'll have to keep me posted on your direct steer conversion. I'm going to look into it this summer as well but that might be all the further I get. It may take a few beers to figure that one out LOL. Thanks again for your help.
 
Since I removed the park brake and caliper I decided to remove the rotor "cooling" fins as well. One thing to remember when doing this do not drink too much before drilling the rivets out or you just might drill the center hub out first! Yes this did happen to me and I about pissed my pants laughing after I did.

I believe I got this process / post from Rick at OFT.

Use a center punch on the fin rivets so that you only drill on the rivet and not the rotor, Drill a small pilot hole using a 5/32 drill bit about 1/3-1/2 of the way into the rivet, Then us a 1/4" drill bit to pop the head of the rivet from the stem and a punch to drive the remainder of the rivet through. It sound's much more complicated than it is, but using a slightly smaller bit aids in not messing up the hole with the drill.

I noticed my rotor was a little sloppy on the jack shaft (see attached picture) and some people complained of excess brake dust once the fins were removed.
So I used some machine bushing I got from the local hardware store to help center the rotor in the caliper and remove the excess slop. Now this should help with the brake dust. My sled had a ton of brake dust anyways. I really have no idea what those "cooling fins" did inside the hood. There is no air flow through there in the stock set up wit hall the foam and no vents. Yami really should of just used a slotted rotor.
 

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LOL, that is too true and that is why I have a Z-Broz 40+3 sitting in my garage and a set of the Fox Evol canisters to add to my Float 2s.
 
Very good! Yamahas branding of an Arctic Cat with their own name still really bothers me and I am not about to get rid of my Nytro. Every time I look at the name of this forum and think about the Viper, I have to chuckle.
 
I was looking at your front end this past winter and really liked it but it was just a little to narrow for me. Then just 2 weeks ago I saw your new trail version and about kicked myself in the a$$ since I already had the Z-Broz. That's the way things go sometimes.
 


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