Broke my sled.......again!

[snowbeast]

So there are existing plates available to reinforce and or repair this? If not i will certainly be creating something.

All I was told by cannadale was get the RR stel shaft,and add rubber O rings to bottom shaft of front skid shock mounting torque arm,i still need to get the steel RR shaft for next year. If there are any plates you can make,please do,as most of us tuned up riders,ride a little harder than the average joe,(steveOCD) exscludded,of course..lol

 

[snowbeast]

Upper and lower shaft Artic Cat part #'s

Nice,so one of these shafts is for the bottom of the front torque Arm?

 

[WinterWolf]

Do the 18 RTX’s have the same thin shafts?

Would the arctic cat part numbers of these shafts/parts be a direct fit for our Yamaha’s?

 

[krm]

If you look ,there is added support inside of the tunnel already .Pretty sad the issues with this sled .Sweet motor though .

 

[TurboJamie]

Steve that's a pretty crappy situation. I didn't realize it was that bad when you had told me about it. That just sucks and should completely be covered under warranty. Have you tried a different dealer or escalated it with Yamaha? That should be completely. Unfortunately that slide action skid with that shaft has been troublesome for years. It's too bad things get left for years and years without being addressed. Your model of sled is equivalent to the RR?

Just remember that the 900T comes in black So you don't have to worry about looking good in yellow haha. I do know one thing and that is the 900T isn't going to compete with the Sidewinder for performance bragging rights. However its going to be a far better engineered piece of equipment.

 

[MotorCityMike]

Do the 18 RTX’s have the same thin shafts?

Would the arctic cat part numbers of these shafts/parts be a direct fit for our Yamaha’s?

On a parts lookup for my 2018 SW L-TX DX it shows a 8JP-G7465-00-00 cross shaft. Is this the stronger "RR" shaft? If not, looks like I need to upgrade mine.

 

[Pstn head]

Nice,so one of these shafts is for the bottom of the front torque Arm?

Nope not for the bottom front torque arm.
The bottom RR shaft is a steel shaft that The centre shock lower eyelet slides over it along with the stock spacers. The factory/stock lower shaft is aluminum and wears terribly where the shock eyelet sits. The upper RR cross shaft is still aluminum but is a larger diameter and uses longer mounting bolts through the tunnel.

 

[Doc Harley]

Sucks to lose a good guy to team yellow. Especially since I believe things are going to go south over there in a hurry. Lol! It's going to happen on the turned up 900t.
Anyway......that looks to be a mess. You should have left it in front of a bar with key in it, of course. All your troubles would have been behind you.

 

[kinger]

I'm not convinced any manufacturer has it figured out. All have pros and cons, I know I would be sick if this happened to me and just as mad. I'm the odd man out (favoring custom and unique) but I would take a insurance claim buy it back and use it as a excuse to then mod it with a sweet CR tunnel or my own home brew of the 'ultimate' tunnel something.

 

[actionjack]

This does suck but I wouldn’t give up on warranty yet I wouldn’t given up on my Winder yet either. I mean XP123 makes a good point. There’s a fricken factory repair kit plus the long Viper thread plus we didn’t get the RR skid we preordered. then if no deal I would just get the beefier parts and the plates and ask Travis if my sled can be the test mule for his new improved reinforcing plate design.

Hey Travis I’ll offer that any way.

 

[stevewithOCD]

Those little plates won't cover up all the kinks. I'd have to make a piece that went all the way to the rivets to cover it up good.
Anyways, i have some more calls to make.

The insurance company said if there is no sign of "impact" they will assume it is a part "defect" and won't cover it.
That's what i told my dealer. Just because the bump stops were worn, doesn't indicate an "impact". All he had to do was say "defect" and i'd be getting a new tunnel.

I may be visiting my dealer's manager & ask why they didn't have the customer's back. I'm bringing a friend to keep me calm. I have a tendency to ask people to go outside to "talk". Then they trip over the curb, bump their head 10 times in a row & i get in trouble.

The only people i like are.......................dogs!

And diehard sledders

 

[SAB1]

Just do it all in a crowded showroom....

 

[cannondale27]

The best fix for tunnel would be both inside and outside plates and the RR shafts like I did but the problem with that is the self piercing rivets. They are the best but are not replaceable. It needs to be done right right from factory. I used 1/4in Huck Rivets in place of the self piercing rivets and they have held up well but its not something I would ever offer to public since most would not want to drill out the selfpiercing rivets. For those that have no choice vs replacing tunnel Hbishmans idea of a kit would be great. The existing material on inside is very weak steel and extending it all the way down and around the corner to under the running boards adds a huge amount of strength I am sure.
These are what I made for inside tunnel

 

[cannondale27]

Those little plates won't cover up all the kinks. I'd have to make a piece that went all the way to the rivets to cover it up good.
Anyways, i have some more calls to make.

The insurance company said if there is no sign of "impact" they will assume it is a part "defect" and won't cover it.
That's what i told my dealer. Just because the bump stops were worn, doesn't indicate an "impact". All he had to do was say "defect" and i'd be getting a new tunnel.

I may be visiting my dealer's manager & ask why they didn't have the customer's back. I'm bringing a friend to keep me calm. I have a tendency to ask people to go outside to "talk". Then they trip over the curb, bump their head 10 times in a row & i get in trouble.

The only people i like are.......................dogs!

And diehard sledders

Thats kind of how it went with me but my dealer didnt let up. He had to take alot of pics showing that nothing else was damaged or worn. Then they approved it as they should. I knew this was going to start happening to the Winders especially the LE's since the shocks work so well. People all said that it was my fault since I should have felt it bottoming and bucking etc. But I did not feel any of that as I am sure you didnt either. It felt great over all the stuff and in control. Just found the weak parts. With crappy shocks a person never would be able to get to the point of breaking these parts since would crash or slow down way before it ever happens. I think Yamaha used to design their sleds like that in the old days to keep warranty claims down since you couldnt ride them fast without beating yourself to death. Its not like that anymore!

 

[KnappAttack]

I had the RR pieces in my Cart on an online store and I thought it got pretty expensive, then clicked the shipping and I said no way are these parts worth that.

That said, it is going to be a common problem just like the brake, brake caliper, bearing and shaft. At some point it will all need to be modified and fixed. I had planed to take it all apart next fall and deal with this less than adequate engineering mess, fix and modify it on my sled.

I think I may just epoxy a piece of chromoly tubing over the top of the stock shaft. Quite obvious the stock shaft only takes so many hits before it breaks outta there.

I have a five year warranty and if it broke on me I'd want it warrantied. Cats engineering at its finest here, same with the brake caliper, bearing and shaft issue. Never have this problem on a Doo 1200! Biggest concern there was the brake rattle that had to be dealt with every couple thousand miles, and to think the guys thought that was bad.

This ProCross chassis is still a PIECE OF CRAP CAT, but at least its now its finally a good riding and handling POS Cat, something that couldn't be said for the 2012!