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Can 't get my Apex to fire after storage

Thanks for all the tips folks. This morning I noticed that when I turn the key on, I'm not hearing that whirring motor noise, which I assume is the fuel pump. I did remove the headlight/guage pod to access the air intakes, but doubt that should affect anything. I'm gonna try some new plugs, and look into those fuel pump relays before attempting to start it again.
 

If you are not hearing the fuel pump then that is probably your problem. Fuel pump relay is located in the left foot well and is the closest one to the gas tank. Try swapping with the relay furthest from the gas tank. ( cooling fan ). If it starts problem solved.
 
Check your fuses. Did you install the new plugs that so many guys swore would fix your problem? I bet it made no difference.

It may be time to use a test light and follow the electrical path to your fuel pump. Have you inspected the wiring for potential mouse damage?
 
wolfie said:
Thanks for all the tips folks. This morning I noticed that when I turn the key on, I'm not hearing that whirring motor noise, which I assume is the fuel pump. I did remove the headlight/guage pod to access the air intakes, but doubt that should affect anything. I'm gonna try some new plugs, and look into those fuel pump relays before attempting to start it again.


I just noticed this sentence...... Yes it does matter. I think the ECM needs the gauge pod hooked up to run the fuel system.
 
I don't know if this helps at all, but when my old ZR6 EFI would not start one year (no fuel pressure) and I had to hook a 12V source to the fuel pump to get it to start pumping fuel. Basically I disconnected the fuel pump, hooked 12V leads to it from a battery, heard it cycle, then it was good to go.

wolfie said:
I swapped out the relays and still can't hear the fuel pump go. :o|
 
Just to clarify that you do NOT need the gauge pod plugged in to run the fuel pump or sled. I have started mine a number of times without the pod. Any luck checking the fuses or tracing the 12v?
 
There is a possibility that some valves are sticking open. I had this problem once and to solve it, I held the throttle wide open while turning it over. It took upwards of 10-15 seconds of cranking before the sled fired. What this does -- it floods the cylinder, washes the valves, and unsticks them. Some people may tell you that this is not possible although it worked for my two sleds. Give it a shot and let me know what happens. I have not had a problem since then.
 
I think I figured it out..... :o| Imagine my surprise when I pulled the seat off..... :rofl: I'm actually happy that it turned out pretty simple and basic, easy repair, and no fault of the sled.
 

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I was having a helluva time on one of my race cars t his spring...wouldnt turn over by hand or nothing. YOu wouldnt believe the issues I had trying to find this.....

How do you know your headers, and exhaust valves are just big enough ???

cylinder2.jpg


Cylinder1.jpg
 
I have seen that sort of thing many times during my years in auto repair. Glad to see you found the problem "Wolfie" ;)!
 
Kevin Garceau said:
I was having a helluva time on one of my race cars t his spring...wouldnt turn over by hand or nothing. YOu wouldnt believe the issues I had trying to find this.....

How do you know your headers, and exhaust valves are just big enough ???

cylinder2.jpg


Um... it needs to go to the ethanol plant for processing befor it will work for ya! :tg:

I have never seen this!! WOW!

Did you snap the nose off the starter motor when you first tried to start it?
 


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