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Can you imagine this?

snowhite

Pro
Joined
Feb 19, 2014
Messages
149
Location
Saskatchewan
Country
Canada
Okay I gotta say this that I come to realize while working on my ‘15 viper lately. If you guys noticed that after the first oil change It’s recommended that the engine oil is good to 10,000 kms for a change. Then into the service manual it recommends you service the chain oil and inspect the drive system (chain/bearings/tensioner/gears), okay Yamaha to do this seasonal service the engine oil has to be drained because of the removal of the hoses connecting to the tank! Ha fooled us I guess, so much for the extended oil change, ya I know you guys are gonna say ohh that’s too many miles anyway but it’s not. Just wasted good synthetic oil.
 

You don't have to drain the oil to remove the chaincase half and inspect. Leave oil tank attached and remove as an assembly.
Correct, I often do gear changes or any chaincase work without draining engine oil. I take off the clamp that holds the 2 lines in front of the case, remove the top oil line at the upper fitting and bung it. Then basically tip the tank forward and partially upside down.
 
Okay sounds way too easy! Show some pictures. If a guy pulls those hoses off the tank (bottom) of course oil is gonna pour out, no?
 
I just had my chain case apart yesterday. I wanted to have a look to see if anything seemed wrong. First time, 2500k. Happy to report I never noticed anything other than a few brass coloured flakes. ( hope that’s normal.). I did the first oil change at 550k and thought I might as well change it again because I neglected to drain the lines the first time. With only 2000 more k on it the engine oil was a little milky. I would not have had to drain the oil but am glad I did. And thanks to RockerDan for his very informative videos and posts. !
 
Okay sounds way too easy! Show some pictures. If a guy pulls those hoses off the tank (bottom) of course oil is gonna pour out, no?
Next time I have one apart I will. Don't need to remove bottom hoses.
 
i Drilled out the rivets that hold the plastic belly pan on on the oil tank side. Then i could access the entire area with ease.
To reassemble i used the plastic automotive push pins.
Makes working in that area a breeze
 
I wondered about that? I seen some videos with no panels, I guess this is what they did, great idea! Thanks for the tip RTX
 
Okay I gotta say this that I come to realize while working on my ‘15 viper lately. If you guys noticed that after the first oil change It’s recommended that the engine oil is good to 10,000 kms for a change. Then into the service manual it recommends you service the chain oil and inspect the drive system (chain/bearings/tensioner/gears), okay Yamaha to do this seasonal service the engine oil has to be drained because of the removal of the hoses connecting to the tank! Ha fooled us I guess, so much for the extended oil change, ya I know you guys are gonna say ohh that’s too many miles anyway but it’s not. Just wasted good synthetic oil.
Doesn't it say we dont need to change the oil filter the second change
 
Okay I gotta say this that I come to realize while working on my ‘15 viper lately. If you guys noticed that after the first oil change It’s recommended that the engine oil is good to 10,000 kms for a change. Then into the service manual it recommends you service the chain oil and inspect the drive system (chain/bearings/tensioner/gears), okay Yamaha to do this seasonal service the engine oil has to be drained because of the removal of the hoses connecting to the tank! Ha fooled us I guess, so much for the extended oil change, ya I know you guys are gonna say ohh that’s too many miles anyway but it’s not. Just wasted good synthetic oil.

I my Manual it reads first oil change 800km and every 4000km after that. Oil filter first at 800km and every 20, 000 after. chain case oil changed seasonal
 
I just had my chain case apart yesterday. I wanted to have a look to see if anything seemed wrong. First time, 2500k. Happy to report I never noticed anything other than a few brass coloured flakes. ( hope that’s normal.). I did the first oil change at 550k and thought I might as well change it again because I neglected to drain the lines the first time. With only 2000 more k on it the engine oil was a little milky. I would not have had to drain the oil but am glad I did. And thanks to RockerDan for his very informative videos and posts. !

Also pulled chain case apart and noticed a crapper load of brass/bronze colored flakes. Sled has 4,000 kms on it now. Turns out the bushing in the top reverse gear was worn badly, like 20thou oversize! Also no holes drilled through the bushing that are in the gear. Lots of guys having this issue, some have found a source for replacement bushings because gears are on back order from Yamaha, which seems to be the norm for a lot of Yam parts these days. Sounds like your top gear bushing is starting to let go as well, wouldn't leave it too much longer. That being said, rumor has it Yam has an update/fix coming out, possibly and needle bearing vs bushing.
 
Well all I can say is how low can a company go on building junk? Meaning any part that has a load at high speed should have a bearing not a Babbitt bushing! So what does it really take to put a needle bearing in place of that Babbitt? Just cutting corners and then when she blows up take it to the dealership for repair at our cost! That’s how I see it
 
Sounds like the AC initial design was a bushing, why with this amount of torque, and Yamaha is improving it with caged needle bearings.
WTG Yamaha!
 
Well all I can say is how low can a company go on building junk? Meaning any part that has a load at high speed should have a bearing not a Babbitt bushing! So what does it really take to put a needle bearing in place of that Babbitt? Just cutting corners and then when she blows up take it to the dealership for repair at our cost! That’s how I see it


The bushing does not rotate at all when in forward gear, it is locked to the shaft. Imagine putting in a roller needle bearing how that would flatten those little needles and wear them into the shaft! I'll take the better load carrying ability of the bushing thanks. The only time the shaft rotates on the gear bushing is when you are in reverse, that is it. All other times its locked to the shaft and does not rotate.

Run the proper chain tension at 1.5 turns out with oil holes in the gear and your chances of ruining a bushing is slim to none.
 


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