Chaincase grinding...

[MyOutdoors]

comes in 3's! My speedo pickup came unglued the other day...quick fix, now I'm stranded 50 miles from home..I thought my track started ratcheting but its the chaincase...I can limp along but anything with some throttle and it slips and grinds. It won't go into reverse either...ugh

 

[InRBigness]

Hahaha. Sorry to laugh but I know exactly what the issue is. I will guess it may go into reverse but wont stay in forward. If so, then it will almost certainly be your shift fork pads. If they are both gone it wont go stay in gear or reverse. I just did mine with replacements from Yamaha but have ordered the brass ones from Travis at Barn of Parts. Never have to do them again I would think. The pads hold the gear locked into place for forward.

new and what was left of old one, new installed without pad .

 

[MyOutdoors]

Actually, it wasn't going in reverse but I could baby it going forward...as soon as I gave it some throttle it was a mess. I'm hoping it's nothing too crazy...going to have to start tearing it open

 

[InRBigness]

I still think it will be the fork pads. I could still go in reverse because I still had a piece stuck on the fork. They always have pressure on the forward side, so that is more commonly where they break. Take apart the chain case and see. Even if it isn't the shift pads, change them out. Looking at your signature, this is on a Viper correct?

If so, here is how I did mine:

-Remove side panel and then remove muffler
-remove foot panel in foot well
-Remove reverse actuator
-I sucked the oil out of the chain case and the oil tank
-remove some hoses from the oil tank
-undo some of the plastics so that you can pull the oil tank out of the way without removing it completely. I installed some Riv-nuts on the plastic's to allow easier access and removal of stuff when I changed the jack shaft bearings last time. Now is a great time to do that.
-undo chain case bolts while leaving the oil tank attached to outside cover of chain case

Once inside you can pull the gears out and examine them. I changed over my torx screws to Machine bolts for ease of future removal. I also reinstalled it last time with new updated red chain case gasket.

Took me about 2 hours when I did mine last time. Riv-Nuts really make it easier.

 

[MyOutdoors]

I have new gears that I was going to install anyway...mines an xf7000 141" so I needed taller gears...I guess it's a good time to do that as well. thank you for the detailed pics...fingers crossed thats what it is.

 

[MyOutdoors]

I still think it will be the fork pads. I could still go in reverse because I still had a piece stuck on the fork. They always have pressure on the forward side, so that is more commonly where they break. Take apart the chain case and see. Even if it isn't the shift pads, change them out. Looking at your signature, this is on a Viper correct?

If so, here is how I did mine:

-Remove side panel and then remove muffler
-remove foot panel in foot well
-Remove reverse actuator
-I sucked the oil out of the chain case and the oil tank
-remove some hoses from the oil tank
-undo some of the plastics so that you can pull the oil tank out of the way without removing it completely. I installed some Riv-nuts on the plastic's to allow easier access and removal of stuff when I changed the jack shaft bearings last time. Now is a great time to do that.
-undo chain case bolts while leaving the oil tank attached to outside cover of chain case

Once inside you can pull the gears out and examine them. I changed over my torx screws to Machine bolts for ease of future removal. I also reinstalled it last time with new updated red chain case gasket.

Took me about 2 hours when I did mine last time. Riv-Nuts really make it easier.

You were right! I think I've also avoided a bigger disaster...chaincase was basically dry. It looks like I have a faulty gasket that slowly leaked. No pads on shift fork and the gear ground into the actual fork. I had ordered new gears last year and hadn't gotten to installing them...wanted to gear higher on my xf 141" to get more top end and better Gass mileage...with the kit, it looks like the chain adjuster is totally different? should I stick with the roller or the auto adjuster? Any other suggestions while I'm in here?

 

[MyOutdoors]

You were definitely right! I may have avoided an even bigger disaster...my chaincase was basically dry! It looks like the gasket was slowly leaking. The gear was grinding into the shift fork. Also it looks like my new gear set came with a totally different chain adjuster? I had purchased a set of taller gears for my xf 141" to get a better top end and gas mileage. should I put in the auto tensioner or the original roller? anything I should take care of while I'm in here?

 

[cannondale27]

Auto adjuster can fail also but less of issue. Manual is pretty basic and bulletproof as long as roller screws are tack welded to keep them from falling out.

 

[MyOutdoors]

Auto adjuster can fail also but less of issue. Manual is pretty basic and bulletproof as long as roller screws are tack welded to keep them from falling out.

I just tightened them up and put some lock tight on them...I don't have a mig to tack them. they were definitely loose and starting to oblong...they're in there tight now and the head keeps everything aligned

 

[Yamasledder]

The screws that hold the roller in the lever in your picture look like they have wallowed the hole out or is it just a shadow?

 

[MyOutdoors]

they were offset and just starting to oblong...I lock tighted them in and now the head of the screws are tight and everything is aligned

 

[InRBigness]

take them to a buddy with a MiG welder. Doesn't have to be done well or even pretty. I red Loctite'd mine and then dropped a tack on both sides just incase. Also, make sure you have the new updated red gasket. Its thicker and stops the leaks. Also, now is the time to put in the brass shift fork pads. The plastic ones will ALWAYS break.

 

[MyOutdoors]

take them to a buddy with a MiG welder. Doesn't have to be done well or even pretty. I red Loctite'd mine and then dropped a tack on both sides just incase. Also, make sure you have the new updated red gasket. Its thicker and stops the leaks. Also, now is the time to put in the brass shift fork pads. The plastic ones will ALWAYS break.

Definitely ordered red updated gasket, also waiting on Travis to let me know if he has a shift fork as well to replace the damaged one.

 

[Yamasledder]

take them to a buddy with a MiG welder. Doesn't have to be done well or even pretty. I red Loctite'd mine and then dropped a tack on both sides just incase. Also, make sure you have the new updated red gasket. Its thicker and stops the leaks. Also, now is the time to put in the brass shift fork pads. The plastic ones will ALWAYS break.

Mine hadn't worn the mounting holes so I staked them with a centre punch so they can't loosen.

 

[Stormbringer]

How many miles did you have on your sled when the pads let loose?