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Chaincase removal and inspection

2 dealers already said they won't cover it due to non-Yamaha turbo installation. I have the outside cover off and am wondering why I cant take the inner chain case off the tunnel to remove bearings and seals like the old Polaris design. Is there not enough room on the bottom to slide over the shaft?
 

I would think you could its just faster to remove the shaft and drive the bearings out with chaincase on. Never saw it done that way since the shaft is going to just be hanging there. Chaincase is sandwiched by tunnel. Would be a pain. Is a video on here somewhere. Maybe on the Evo site?
Here
 
Got it apart and out. Inner chain case ruined. Found a dealer to warranty parts and let me reassemble. Inner case removal is a pain.
 
Do chaincase screws come with loctite from the factory? My 15 with 300 miles is leaking very slowly...I would say a drop a day. I tried to tighten the screws, but they were already herculean tight. Had a heck of a time getting screw to back out, ended up using a cordless impact driver. When I finally got the boogered up screw out it had blue loctite on it.

I would take it to the dealer for warranty, but nearest sled dealer is 550 miles away (I live in North Carolina). I have read of guys having slow leaks that turned into big leaks...I can't afford for this to happen to me, as we usually trailer 13 plus hours to ride.
 
tnc110 said:
Do chaincase screws come with loctite from the factory? My 15 with 300 miles is leaking very slowly...I would say a drop a day. I tried to tighten the screws, but they were already herculean tight. Had a heck of a time getting screw to back out, ended up using a cordless impact driver. When I finally got the boogered up screw out it had blue loctite on it.

I would take it to the dealer for warranty, but nearest sled dealer is 550 miles away (I live in North Carolina). I have read of guys having slow leaks that turned into big leaks...I can't afford for this to happen to me, as we usually trailer 13 plus hours to ride.
Click to expand...

Yes they come from the factory with Loctite. And from what I've seen they use plenty of it. Clean the surfaces well and reinstall with a small amount of blue Loctite. Check for cracked tabs on the cover, that wasn't a huge problem after 2014 but still possible.


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Hmmmm...I wonder if the screws were not tight enough, but seemed tight because of all the loctite. I guess I will remove all the screws one by one and replace before I pull the chaincase apart, as I just change the engine oil.
 
DranttelSS said:
Yes they come from the factory with Loctite. And from what I've seen they use plenty of it. Clean the surfaces well and reinstall with a small amount of blue Loctite. Check for cracked tabs on the cover, that wasn't a huge problem after 2014 but still possible.


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Click to expand...

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the screws I don't have my manual in the house but they use blue loctite because it is torque retention not locking. Many people broke the tabs because they over tightened the screws. They are an inch/pound torque and if I remember correctly about 30-35 in/lbs or two-three foot pounds. If you are not used to torquing to inch pounds use a inch pound torque wrench or you will be breaking tabs and the cover is not cheap.

There is a post here from 2014 where this is discussed at length, even dealers were over tightening and breaking tabs. Once the word got out broken tabs were mostly a thing of the past.

I just found the torque spec, it is on page three of this thread. 105 inch pounds or 8.75 foot pounds. Also clean out the tapped hoses prior to reassembly junk in the holes will give a false torque rating and reduce clamp pressure which could cause a leak.
 
Last edited:
tnc110 said:
Do chaincase screws come with loctite from the factory? My 15 with 300 miles is leaking very slowly...I would say a drop a day. I tried to tighten the screws, but they were already herculean tight. Had a heck of a time getting screw to back out, ended up using a cordless impact driver. When I finally got the boogered up screw out it had blue loctite on it.

I would take it to the dealer for warranty, but nearest sled dealer is 550 miles away (I live in North Carolina). I have read of guys having slow leaks that turned into big leaks...I can't afford for this to happen to me, as we usually trailer 13 plus hours to ride.
Click to expand...

Have you ever had the chaincase apart?
Did you ever drain/change the chaincase oil?
My chaincase leaked similar to yours after my first dealer service. I took it apart and found a little speck of dirt in the groove that the oring seal sits in.
I had to remove the oring from the groove to find it. You could see the indentation in the oring.
Cleaned it all up reassembled and no leak.
It appears that that sealing area is very sensitive to any dirt or debris.
 
RTX said:
Have you ever had the chaincase apart?
Did you ever drain/change the chaincase oil?
My chaincase leaked similar to yours after my first dealer service. I took it apart and found a little speck of dirt in the groove that the oring seal sits in.
I had to remove the oring from the groove to find it. You could see the indentation in the oring.
Cleaned it all up reassembled and no leak.
It appears that that sealing area is very sensitive to any dirt or debris.
Click to expand...

Never been apart by me. 300 miles on sled. It must be a very slow leek...I took the bottom most screw out last night and checked to see if it had leaked any more, a drop hasnt formed yet.
 
How much slack is there supposed to be on the reverse chain? I'm checking out one of my vipers and I find there's a lot of play in the chain.
 
Just put a new track on a 1.6 Camoplast. What I cant figure out is why there is not a fill or drain hole in the chain case. Yamaha really thinks its a good idea to have to turn the sled on its side to fill the reservoir, and then try not to drop the screws and reattach the face plate with my sausage fingers. None the less thanks for the breakdown info cannondale27 always appreciated
 
MFC44 said:
Just put a new track on a 1.6 Camoplast. What I cant figure out is why there is not a fill or drain hole in the chain case. Yamaha really thinks its a good idea to have to turn the sled on its side to fill the reservoir, and then try not to drop the screws and reattach the face plate with my sausage fingers. None the less thanks for the breakdown info cannondale27 always appreciated
Click to expand...
You fill the chaincase by taking the reverse actuator off
 
cannondale27 said:
Yes X2 and removing the extension that it turns. Sorry for not being clear about that. Fill is pretty easy but really a 4 st engine in this entire chassis was a afterthought by Cat but a darn good one!
Click to expand...
Definitely not your fault, well now I know I made it work by putting it on its side, definitely will be easier next time
 
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