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Chaincase removal and inspection


Is it possible to have a bushing pressed in to replace the top gear bush? Up here, Cat has the gear listed for $108!
 
Is it possible to have a bushing pressed in to replace the top gear bush? Up here, Cat has the gear listed for $108!

Yes...

1122191154.jpg
 

I bought 3 of them from a local distributor and have installed one so far for a friend who will be trying it in a Sidewinder. They are a Bunting Bearing ToughMet 3 bushing #TMCB161808. Grainger & Zoro sell them. They will cost more than what a new gear/bushing does but I am being told that they will never wear out. They have 15% nickel in them.

They are not just a drop in replacement. The bore needs to be enlarged around 0.003" in order to get it to fit back on the shaft after it is pressed into the gear. I also don't know yet if the width needs to be trimmed. The stock bushing is 7/8" wide. These are 1" and will stick out one side a bit when pressed in flush on the other. I may contact the manufacturer and see if they are able to make them them the right size specs to be a direct replacement.
 
Since the gear needs to be bored out, I wonder if anyone has considered using a needle bearing and race? Both would require press fit to prevent spinning on shaft/bore.
 
Since the gear needs to be bored out, I wonder if anyone has considered using a needle bearing and race? Both would require press fit to prevent spinning on shaft/bore.

The bushing gets bored, not the gear. Also, the bushing only spins on the shaft when in reverse so I don't see how a needle bearing would help.
 
I bought 3 of them from a local distributor and have installed one so far for a friend who will be trying it in a Sidewinder. They are a Bunting Bearing ToughMet 3 bushing #TMCB161808. Grainger & Zoro sell them. They will cost more than what a new gear/bushing does but I am being told that they will never wear out. They have 15% nickel in them.

They are not just a drop in replacement. The bore needs to be enlarged around 0.003" in order to get it to fit back on the shaft after it is pressed into the gear. I also don't know yet if the width needs to be trimmed. The stock bushing is 7/8" wide. These are 1" and will stick out one side a bit when pressed in flush on the other. I may contact the manufacturer and see if they are able to make them them the right size specs to be a direct replacement.


Thanks for the info, for now, I ordered a stock replacement gear. I'll keep the original and see what I can do with it.

My dealer told me the stockers have a teflon liner. If true, it wouldn't seem to be very robust. It was $102 CAD.
 
Hi,
I had my 2014 Viper for one season now, has about 3600 miles on. After reading the 2 or 3 different threads, I am thinking of opening up the chain case and checking for wear. I am a little unsure about the gears that are prone to wear or fail. Could someone point out which numbers on the attached picture I should be looking at for wear?
Thanks

2014 viper chain case.png
 
Hi,
I had my 2014 Viper for one season now, has about 3600 miles on. After reading the 2 or 3 different threads, I am thinking of opening up the chain case and checking for wear. I am a little unsure about the gears that are prone to wear or fail. Could someone point out which numbers on the attached picture I should be looking at for wear?
Thanks

View attachment 154670
Cant read yours. #20 is the gear the bushing wears on and #26 is the tensioner the bolts fall out of. These are from a RTX so your XTX will have a different gear.
Chaincase.jpg
 
Hi,
I had my 2014 Viper for one season now, has about 3600 miles on. After reading the 2 or 3 different threads, I am thinking of opening up the chain case and checking for wear. I am a little unsure about the gears that are prone to wear or fail. Could someone point out which numbers on the attached picture I should be looking at for wear?
Thanks

View attachment 154670
In your pic #19 is the gear and 25 is the tensioner that cannondale27 is referring to.
 


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