I see what your talking about now! Yes that race is definitely not tight. That bearing is junk. Good eye Clutchmaster. I couldnt see that on phone.Use some force and pull up and down, I’m sure it will clunk.
View attachment 155233
That ball is almost falling out of the race.
Here where circled. That race should be much tighter to ball.
ClutchMaster
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2002 Viper W/162 A.C. skid, SRX pipes &CDI, 780 BB
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The more I look at it I guess it could just be the shadow tho? You need to grab the shaft and pull up and down hard on it, if it moves even a little bit it’s toast.
It is hard to tell. Sure looks like it got hot and cage is loose.The more I look at it I guess it could just be the shadow tho? You need to grab the shaft and pull up and down hard on it, if it moves even a little bit it’s toast.
honda400ex2
Veteran
Haven't had a chance yet to get the collar off to double check.
If I find out that it is shot;
when removing the jackshaft does the pounding typically destroy the bearing at the secondary clutch side? Seem it would be pushing on the inside of the bearing.
If I find out that it is shot;
when removing the jackshaft does the pounding typically destroy the bearing at the secondary clutch side? Seem it would be pushing on the inside of the bearing.
It depends on how hard you have to hit it. Mine just took a few taps but some guys have literally had to cut that bearing off! Only reason I could see that happening is if bearing lock was way over torqued.
The one behind secondary won't be effected. Your tapping on the nut with orange paint on it. That's just on the taper lock.
ClutchMaster
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Haven't had a chance yet to get the collar off to double check.
If I find out that it is shot;
when removing the jackshaft does the pounding typically destroy the bearing at the secondary clutch side? Seem it would be pushing on the inside of the bearing.
You don’t need to remove the collar or anything to know if the bearing is shot.
Grab the shaft as it sits and pull hard up and down, if it has any movement or play it’s bad, this is the best way to check it, not after removal.
Inspection is equally important. I have seen these perfectly tight with pieces of cage bent or missing.You don’t need to remove the collar or anything to know if the bearing is shot.
Grab the shaft as it sits and pull hard up and down, if it has any movement or play it’s bad, this is the best way to check it, not after removal.
ClutchMaster
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2002 Viper W/162 A.C. skid, SRX pipes &CDI, 780 BB
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Haven't had a chance yet to get the collar off to double check.
If I find out that it is shot;
when removing the jackshaft does the pounding typically destroy the bearing at the secondary clutch side? Seem it would be pushing on the inside of the bearing.
Like Cdale and others have said, typically the collar will release with a piece of tubing or pipe of the same diameter is slipped over the shaft and tapped with a hammer. Mine was so tight it didn’t release, had to remove the clutch side jackshaft bearing and aluminum brace. Then remove the jackshaft out through the chaincase. Once it’s out cut through the bearing with a cutoff wheel to remove it. A real pita!
Do not heat the bearing or jackshaft to release it! The jackshaft is heat treated alloy steel, heating it will remove the temper from the steel, ruining the shaft.
honda400ex2
Veteran
I double checked with the collar on, really tried moving the jackshaft every direction with a lot of force and no movement. Took the taper nut off, and inspected it from this point checked for bearing movement, all seems good, cage seems in good shape. I think the picture was not real great. Thanks all for the help on this.
Has anyone recently had any luck getting the warranty to cover the bushing wear in the top gear? I took to the dealer and explained the situation & they said they needed to talk to Yamaha, I send a small video clip to them of the movement. Have not heard back yet, but what is typical for this type of claim?
Has anyone recently had any luck getting the warranty to cover the bushing wear in the top gear? I took to the dealer and explained the situation & they said they needed to talk to Yamaha, I send a small video clip to them of the movement. Have not heard back yet, but what is typical for this type of claim?
I got my first gear warranted. Went aftermarket after that.I double checked with the collar on, really tried moving the jackshaft every direction with a lot of force and no movement. Took the taper nut off, and inspected it from this point checked for bearing movement, all seems good, cage seems in good shape. I think the picture was not real great. Thanks all for the help on this.
Has anyone recently had any luck getting the warranty to cover the bushing wear in the top gear? I took to the dealer and explained the situation & they said they needed to talk to Yamaha, I send a small video clip to them of the movement. Have not heard back yet, but what is typical for this type of claim?
honda400ex2
Veteran
I got my first gear warranted. Went aftermarket after that.
Is the aftermarket one holding up better than the oem, or is it still something that should be watched every xxxx miles? I am just wondering if it pays to put a oem back unless they improved them?
Do you remember where you got the aftermarket one from & what it costed?
Thanks
My aftermarket gear still wears the bushing every year. I replace the bushing every off season. Is what it is.Is the aftermarket one holding up better than the oem, or is it still something that should be watched every xxxx miles? I am just wondering if it pays to put a oem back unless they improved them?
Do you remember where you got the aftermarket one from & what it costed?
Thanks
honda400ex2
Veteran
My aftermarket gear still wears the bushing every year. I replace the bushing every off season. Is what it is.
Ok, something to watch every year. Thanks for the help.
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