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Changing the slides/hyfax on 06 Apex

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My 2-cents:
Widen windows in track via utiltiy knife.
Use a small butane micro-torch to heat the phillips head screws, they come out easliy w/some heat.
Use screwdriver to chisel back until hyfax comes thru window.
Clamp w/vice grip.
Hammer hyfax off.
Increase dia. of existing hole in new hyfax before installing, 1/4" drill bit does the job. I also experienced off-center holes in new sliders.
Apply dishwashing liquid to new hyfax.
Use blue Loctite on screws when re-installing.
 

Slides Already?

Just turned 700 miles and mine are not ever close tot he wear lines. This includes a lot of bare roads and muddy trails since NY has had little snow until now. Correct that the thinnest point is just under the rear idlers. Not going to change them yet. Going to Quebec on Feb25th for a 1200 mile loop, I'll do it before I leave.

I remember when I got my 2001 SRX the dealer kept adjusting the track to " Specifications " which would kill the slides in 200 miles. I have been running all my Yamaha sleds with about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of clearance in the middle and have had no slide waer problems or skipping drive lugs.
 
I just changed mine before I go to Ontario next week. Wanted to start a 1400 mile trip with a new set. I cut one of the old ones in half at the thinnest point and it appears you could completely wear the wide part of the hyfax away and would still have a little left before wearing through.
 
The reasons that you have all explained about ruining a new set of hyfax because of track being to tight is why I set mine the way I explain on my earlier post. It gets the tension very close to where it was when you had the least amount of wear on your sliders.
 
I tried changing the slides out on my buddies RTX. Why are the tolerances of the slide and slide rail so tight? You need to use a air chisel to get them off! I couldn't move them more than a 1/2 inch on the rail so we put it back together and dropped it off at the dealer. If I had the right tools (slide puller, air chisel, good vice grips) I could have done it. I've changed a hundred sets of slides but this was the first yammi and it didn't go well.
 
I also use the dent puller only problem with that is the new 121 hyfax has a tapered edge on the rear and it makes it tuff to get a good bite on that material, so when i change to my next set i will try some 136s and cut them down leaving plenty of material to get a hold of, this is by far the easiest way to change them i have ever seen.

I have done my fair share of pounding on the rails not anymore, BTW piss poor design on the track windows another technological breakthrough!
 
Shaf said:
I also use the dent puller only problem with that is the new 121 hyfax has a tapered edge on the rear and it makes it tuff to get a good bite on that material, so when i change to my next set i will try some 136s and cut them down leaving plenty of material to get a hold of, this is by far the easiest way to change them i have ever seen.

What I do with the dent puller, is drill a tiny hole, then I can always start the screw even though it is heavily ramped like you say.
I drill 2 tiny holes in the end of each one BEFORE I install the next set. and cutting down the 136's works too. But you do want to still ramp them some with a belt sander. Dont want that blunt cut edge to catch the clip and rip it out when you put the sled in reverse.
 
Tork said:
But you do want to still ramp them some with a belt sander. Dont want that blunt cut edge to catch the clip and rip it out when you put the sled in reverse.

Good point. I don't need to find that out when I'm up north. The last thing I want to do is work on my sled when I'm supposed to be riding.
 
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