stevewithOCD
Yamaha, Make me Come Back
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2006 Apex RTX
I used the tool, but have not measured it yet.
I wanted to get the sheave to the machinist.
I think some are saying that this tool uses the center of the rear sheave & there is a difference between the castings. I haven't even looked yet to see where this difference could be.
I will give my measurement when done. Right now, it looks like 59 will be my number. I was at 60.5 with no shim & it looks like i need to go in 1mm.
I wanted to get the sheave to the machinist.
I think some are saying that this tool uses the center of the rear sheave & there is a difference between the castings. I haven't even looked yet to see where this difference could be.
I will give my measurement when done. Right now, it looks like 59 will be my number. I was at 60.5 with no shim & it looks like i need to go in 1mm.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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Would be nice if they all came out the same.
I hope everyone is checking the tool to make sure the bar is not bent. Mine had a slight bow in it and I had to straighten it out. Dave has a video telling us to make sure the bar is straight.
I hope everyone is checking the tool to make sure the bar is not bent. Mine had a slight bow in it and I had to straighten it out. Dave has a video telling us to make sure the bar is straight.
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
I don't want to lead anyone astray with measurements either. I saw this last season when someone said 61 mm was the number to shoot for...
I'll just say I'm between 55 - 57mm. And needed 3 mm or more cut off the secondary. Its far under the even the low side of the Yamaha spec. Install the bar one way and then the other, then average it just to double check the bar, and thats after checking it on a straight edge. Check, check, double check.
And IMO these thing should not be floating, if its in the outboard position when it binds under power, BANG!!!
I'll just say I'm between 55 - 57mm. And needed 3 mm or more cut off the secondary. Its far under the even the low side of the Yamaha spec. Install the bar one way and then the other, then average it just to double check the bar, and thats after checking it on a straight edge. Check, check, double check.
And IMO these thing should not be floating, if its in the outboard position when it binds under power, BANG!!!
Another question. Wouldnt belt used and especially length of it effect the 1:1 measurement?
STAIN
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That is exactly what mine should be when done. I had 5mm taken off and will shim it out to get the tool to fit correctly.57.5 when I measure mine after taking 3mm off my shaft to fit the tool.
WVTurboLTX
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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My tool was bent slightly as well. Straightened it best I could then took measurement, flipped and checked again. One was 2.5 one was 3.5. I was surprised he shipped it in a flat cardboard envelope instead of a box. They are going to get bent like that. Go/No go wasn't machined the greatest either but got the job done. Looks like low end of spec and take the float out to keep it there. We shall see when the snow flies.
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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We all know what it is....Please support Dave and buy a bar, its a great tool to have in your box.The Yamaha method is off the clutches. Yamaha clutches. Has nothing to do with the sled itself. If you guys dont want to say what the measurement using Yamahas method is After setting with Hurricane tool just say so. I wouldnt blame you.
Giving out the measurement on a public forum, which would be easily searchable on google is just not right IMO.
Dan
ROCKERDAN
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Seriously?57.5 when I measure mine after taking 3mm off my shaft to fit the tool.
WVTurboLTX
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And 2 other guys are getting something different. So there must be a variable that the tool is taking into account. Either way, It's still an easier and more accurate way to measure it.Seriously?
I agree. Very much simpler method. Nobody asked for the measurements of the GoNoGo guage. I still want to know what the effect of different belts than the Gauge was designed for is going to have if the goal of the whole thing is setting clutches at 1:1? And Dan I will buy one when I get the Stubshaft.We all know what it is....Please support Dave and buy a bar, its a great tool to have in your box.
Giving out the measurement on a public forum, which would be easily searchable on google is just not right IMO.
Dan
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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If your parallel is off some I believe the Hurricane bar will give a more accurate measurement than measuring at the location Yamaha shows for offset.
Just my 2 cents.
Just my 2 cents.
That makes sense. Anyone ever check Parallel and even Vertical alignment? Havent heard of a belt flipping in many years though!If your parallel is off some I believe the Hurricane bar will give a more accurate measurement than measuring at the location Yamaha shows for offset.
Just my 2 cents.
Doowithblue
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18- RTX LE
That makes sense. Anyone ever check Parallel and even Vertical alignment? Havent heard of a belt flipping in many years though!
This is what ive been asking all along. Has anyone checked parallel properly?
I will say this. I have never checked the Pyramid bolts and found them tight after a season of riding. Have to believe if they move the Jackshaft must be moving too.This is what ive been asking all along. Has anyone checked parallel properly?
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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I checked all the measurments when sled was new....all is perfect, the chassis for most part are all good in those ways....its just the offset that is a YAM spec, which I think they have used for previous models without issues. Dave's 1 to 1 has been derived from his racing experience and big power....Hoping this works!That makes sense. Anyone ever check Parallel and even Vertical alignment? Havent heard of a belt flipping in many years though!
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