Clutch servicing

[jpilk99]

My recently purchased '06 Apex GT is now running great (no coffee colored oil), fixed the damaged bulkhead where the front left lower suspension arm broke free, (thank you Travis at Barn of Parts!), and am now shifting my attention to the clutches. Note: I've owned this sled for about 3 weeks - never ridden it.

The primary clutch does NOT move in at all. I need to get the right puller even though some comment on a previous thread talk about cleaning/servicing with the cap removed. So while I wait on my puller to arrive, I'm looking at the Super Torquer (Heel Clicker) secondary. It sure looks like it could use a cleaning/servicing as well since the 3 ..."rollers" (sorry, I'm more of a car guy than snowmobile mechanic) look like they could use a cleaning as well as the ...angled surfaces they ...roll on?

I can't seem to find any documentation on this secondary, does anyone have instructions on taking them apart, or installing/tuning them that I could use as a reference? I've read that I need to be super meticulous in what I take off, and what spacers/weights may be where. I'm taking lots of pictures before I even touch it. Kinda cool, when I went to the Heel Clicker website, I couldn't find any specific info, but, I did see a phone number - so I called it. Pretty sure I talked to the owner. Nice guy. Unfortunately, he couldn't direct me to the info that he said was on his site. (It said it was in the FAQ section, which I can't find. And I'm an IT sales guy!!!). He did say one thing, when I described the issue(s) I'm noticing with the primary - where it does not want to move in at all when revving the sled, and when I told him it had a little over 5k miles, he said "thats when Yamaha's outer bushing in the cover fail. They're cheap, just replace them".

When I look on Partszilla, I see the bushing is about $18. Can I press that out of the cover and press in new one? The cover looks to be almost $100 but I don't see any reason why I'd need a new cap.

Anyhow; any guidance on Super Torquer secondaries would be great. I'll keep looking myself. After this, I should be riding!!!! Thanks all!

Jay

 

[steiner]

When removing the secondary take note of the spacers located on the front and backside to the clutch. Be sure to put them back were they were or you change your clutching offset. Can't help you much on servicing the Super Torquer. Maybe Google can.
Primary does not move in? So you are not getting engagement or movement in the track you the rpm's get past 4k? If so you have a serious issue in the primary. Remove the tower/cover that is held on with the six 10mm bolts. This will relieve the spring pressure in the primary and allow you to check to see if it slides freely. You can also check the weights and bushings when the tower/cover is off. When putting the tower/cover back on make you you align the two X's. One X is on the inside of the cover/tower and the other X is on the primary.

 

[jpilk99]

I don't know if I revved up past 4k, I'll double check. But I've owned a number of other sleds and I'm confident that I'm revv'ing this machine enough for the primary to move a little.

I've already removed the 6 10mm bolts. Numbered them all and marked exactly how the cover/cap was aligned before I removed it. Spring looks good. It don't slide a lick!!! Maybe I'll go back and really give it a shove, but, it didn't feel like it wanted to slide in at all.

Not sure how I can check weights and bushings unless I can get that cover/cap to move. (I'm probably just "clutch stupid" and not understanding what your're saying). Don't know what you mean about aligning the two "X"s... I am humbled. So much for 40 years of automobile mechanics and small engine repair.

 

[72Gran]

If you have the 10mm bolts out and spring removed the outer sheave should slide back and forth with ease. Make sure you are pushing on the sheave and not the spider. The spider is where the rollers are and it’s fixed. The sheave is where the cover was bolted to. If you push where the bolts go it should slide really easy towards the inner sheave.

 

[jpilk99]

If you have the 10mm bolts out and spring removed the outer sheave should slide back and forth with ease. Make sure you are pushing on the sheave and not the spider. The spider is where the rollers are and it’s fixed. The sheave is where the cover was bolted to. If you push where the bolts go it should slide really easy towards the inner sheave.

When I push on the sheave - where the cover/cap was bolted with those six 10mm bolts - she don't budge a C-hair. I'm trying to clean the shaft and those curved channels where the ...sheave/spider(?) slides in --- kinda dirty in there... Not sure if these pics help, but, this is what I'm lookin' at.

 

[jpilk99]

I did just find out that this sled sat since the 18/19 season, so basically 3 years. Maybe that's why she's extra ...sticky. Can I GENTLY apply a little PB Blaster in certain areas along shaft and sliders to try and help 'break it free'? Obviously, I'll clean every bit of it out when it goes back on.

 

[72Gran]

Ya should be no problem with some penetrating oil. It’s obvious that the sheave bushing is ceased. Sprat some inside where the belt runs and in the pockets where the sliders are. I think your gonna have to remove all the rollers and weights to properly clean them too.

I would suggest if you get it moving then leave the penetrating oil in there and reassemble everything put the belt on and also spray the secondary where the spring and helix are. The start the sled and run it through a few clutch cycles to free stuff up. Then you will need to disassemble everything and clean. If you find the primary sheave is still sticky the clutch will need to be removed and completely disassembled including the spider and possibly replace the bushings.

 

[jpilk99]

Potentially dumbass question #17 from me so far: All the videos I see on clutches getting cleaned show Brake Cleaner being used. Is Carb Cleaner no good? (I have a bunch of carb cleaner on my bench already....).

 

[74Nitro]

Show a pic of the shaft(between the sheaves) please.

 

[72Gran]

Carb cleaner is nasty stuff you don’t want to get it on any rubber or plastic. I would still use brake/parts cleaner. if parts are rusty or oxidized you may have to clean with fine steel wool then rinse with brake cleaner.

 

[jpilk99]

Show a pic of the shaft(between the sheaves) please.

Finally got clutch off (puller arrived !!!). But we got a tiny bit of play/movement prior to puller - enough to see the garbage in on the shaft in picture 4. Pic 3 is between sheaves. Pic 1 is self explanatory....

I don't have any more clutch tools to be able to seperate the sheaves (don't I need something to keep bottom from spinning while I unthread the top? Plus, with how crappy everything looks - that this machine hasn't been run in 3 years and was probably a dirty ol' mess before it was parked, I'm thinking I just take it to a "professional". Anyone live out here in Massatooshits?

 

[72Gran]

I would say it was put away wet or stored outside at one point. Looks like you have moved it as far as it will go. That shaft looks pitted and is most likely toast. Maybe consider buying a used clutch. I made my own tool to remove the spider it was relatively easy if you have a welder. My dealer charges 100$ to do it. If you need a new spider its 200$ US. Someone here may have a good used one.

 

[jpilk99]

I would say it was put away wet or stored outside at one point. Looks like you have moved it as far as it will go. That shaft looks pitted and is most likely toast. Maybe consider buying a used clutch. I made my own tool to remove the spider it was relatively easy if you have a welder. My dealer charges 100$ to do it. If you need a new spider its 200$ US. Someone here may have a good used one.

Keep in mind that I am not a savvy clutch guy, but, given how sticky everything is in this clutch, and the condition of that shaft... I'm inclined to think that a $250-$300 used on on ebay is a better alternative.

Does anyone on here have a good condition used primary they want to sell me?

 

[VX1R]

I just saw your thread. For what it's worth I would recommend that you touch base with the guys (Tim or Terry) at Thunder Products Clutching to get your clutch serviced by the pro's. These guys are long time members and supporters of this site and offer complete rebuilding and servicing of clutches. They're both straight shooters and will never try to sell you something that you don't need and their support is second to none.

I'm not implying that you're not capable yourself and kudos to you for trying to learn the basics but in my experience the riding season is ever so short and IMHO it's worth it to have your clutch serviced by the pros, so you know that it's done right.

These clutches, especially ones with a lot of miles that might have been neglected can do some serious harm to you and your sled if problems aren't noticed and corrected.

I saw that you're looking for someone local to help. I can't help you there, but Thunder Products is located in the lower part of MI and ships daily with a decent turn around time for work. They sometimes have some decent used clutches available for sale. Here's a link to their website:

Home - Thunder Products Clutching

Peak Shifting Performance "The Original" Thunder Shift Kit, Heavy Hitters, and more! Welcome to Thunder Products Clutching. We are your NEW source for snowmobile and ATV clutch performance upgrades. Here you will find tried and true clutching upgrades proven to give you spot-on holeshots...

thunderproductsclutching.com

 

[jpilk99]

I just saw your thread. For what it's worth I would recommend that you touch base with the guys (Tim or Terry) at Thunder Products Clutching to get your clutch serviced by the pro's. These guys are long time members and supporters of this site and offer complete rebuilding and servicing of clutches. They're both straight shooters and will never try to sell you something that you don't need and their support is second to none.

I'm not implying that you're not capable yourself and kudos to you for trying to learn the basics but in my experience the riding season is ever so short and IMHO it's worth it to have your clutch serviced by the pros, so you know that it's done right.

These clutches, especially ones with a lot of miles that might have been neglected can do some serious harm to you and your sled if problems aren't noticed and corrected.

I saw that you're looking for someone local to help. I can't help you there, but Thunder Products is located in the lower part of MI and ships daily with a decent turn around time for work. They sometimes have some decent used clutches available for sale. Here's a link to their website:

Home - Thunder Products Clutching

Peak Shifting Performance "The Original" Thunder Shift Kit, Heavy Hitters, and more! Welcome to Thunder Products Clutching. We are your NEW source for snowmobile and ATV clutch performance upgrades. Here you will find tried and true clutching upgrades proven to give you spot-on holeshots...

thunderproductsclutching.com

Thanks VX1R. I just sent them a message and left a vmail.