I'm running 05 clutching in my sled
8bu-10 /10.3 steel
14.5 rollers
O-P-O 30X3.25
White 70 on secondary.
0-1000 elevation
50/50 trail/off trail, we don't have any real hills around here.
I noticed this year I'm pulling 11000 to 11100 RPM at WOT. It holds there and drops down to 10800-10900. Is this too high and should I consider trying to get my RPM's down. If so how would I get the RPM's back down. This setup pulls nice and hard I'm just a little concerned with the RPM above 11000. I changed my skid this year I'm not sure if this would have changed the max RPM.
8bu-10 /10.3 steel
14.5 rollers
O-P-O 30X3.25
White 70 on secondary.
0-1000 elevation
50/50 trail/off trail, we don't have any real hills around here.
I noticed this year I'm pulling 11000 to 11100 RPM at WOT. It holds there and drops down to 10800-10900. Is this too high and should I consider trying to get my RPM's down. If so how would I get the RPM's back down. This setup pulls nice and hard I'm just a little concerned with the RPM above 11000. I changed my skid this year I'm not sure if this would have changed the max RPM.
Turk
Tech Advisor
Add more weight to the primary. change out the 10.3 steels to either 13.9 or 17.2 rivets.
Thanks I'll try the 13.9 rivets first.
Turk
Tech Advisor
Probably would be better to go with the heavier rivets then just grind em down to a lighter weight if you need more rpm,s. those big rivets are a pain to change.
Turk
I went to the dealer and they only had four 17.3 weights in stock so I picked up the 13.9 that were in stock. At WOT I'm hitting 10800-10900 and then dropping to 10600-10800. I think I'll keep the setup for now. It drops back down to 10600 and doesn't feel like the sled wants to over rev. Thanks for the help.
I went to the dealer and they only had four 17.3 weights in stock so I picked up the 13.9 that were in stock. At WOT I'm hitting 10800-10900 and then dropping to 10600-10800. I think I'll keep the setup for now. It drops back down to 10600 and doesn't feel like the sled wants to over rev. Thanks for the help.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Here's a couple more ideas for you.
You could try a Orange/Silver/Orange primary spring. It has a higher (142) total force and should help out with your RPM issue. I always use the strongest primary spring I can so I can throw as much weight at the primary as possible (loading the motor) to make it work for the RPMs.
Also, try a couple of Yamaha spring shims on each end of your primary spring. It makes it just a bit stronger to overcome by the clutch weights and can be a great little tunning aid. Yamaha says a maximum of three shims per primary spring.
I went from 14.5mm up to 15mm rollers because the the larger the roller the less effect (lever effect) your weights have on your RPM. The stock 16.5mm rollers allowed Yamaha to use 72 gram flyweights. By going to smaller rollers, less weight is needed to affect the appropiate cluching and vice versa.
Turn down your secondary one notch if you don't need a killer backshift your your type of riding. I found that going from 80 degrees back to 70 degrees you may lose 100-200 RPM on top but, you really should do your shift speed tuning with the primary first and use the secondary for condition changes.
Buy a Shockwave adjustable helix. You can always dial your clutching to be right where you want it. This little gadget has really made me love to turn RPM. I put it on because I was losing RPM while climbing and wanted to be able topull 10,500 while climbing. I can now. If I leave the shockwave turned in (= more RPM) I have hit 11,200-11,300 on the trail (man does it sound mean) just goofing around but never hit the rev limiter (I wonder why).
By the way, I'm not sure if you have the ECP filters or not but, if you do you want to run at 10,500 for maximum power.
Good luck
Frosty
You could try a Orange/Silver/Orange primary spring. It has a higher (142) total force and should help out with your RPM issue. I always use the strongest primary spring I can so I can throw as much weight at the primary as possible (loading the motor) to make it work for the RPMs.
Also, try a couple of Yamaha spring shims on each end of your primary spring. It makes it just a bit stronger to overcome by the clutch weights and can be a great little tunning aid. Yamaha says a maximum of three shims per primary spring.
I went from 14.5mm up to 15mm rollers because the the larger the roller the less effect (lever effect) your weights have on your RPM. The stock 16.5mm rollers allowed Yamaha to use 72 gram flyweights. By going to smaller rollers, less weight is needed to affect the appropiate cluching and vice versa.
Turn down your secondary one notch if you don't need a killer backshift your your type of riding. I found that going from 80 degrees back to 70 degrees you may lose 100-200 RPM on top but, you really should do your shift speed tuning with the primary first and use the secondary for condition changes.
Buy a Shockwave adjustable helix. You can always dial your clutching to be right where you want it. This little gadget has really made me love to turn RPM. I put it on because I was losing RPM while climbing and wanted to be able topull 10,500 while climbing. I can now. If I leave the shockwave turned in (= more RPM) I have hit 11,200-11,300 on the trail (man does it sound mean) just goofing around but never hit the rev limiter (I wonder why).
By the way, I'm not sure if you have the ECP filters or not but, if you do you want to run at 10,500 for maximum power.
Good luck
Frosty
Thanks for the additional ideas. I may try the O-S-O spring just for fun. I like the amount of backshift I have so I'll try to tune the primary with your additional comments. I don't run ECP filters on my sled.
