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Clutching on the cheap

I just posted my setups from clutching I tried.... There is a mountain 8FP setup, my setup from last winter with just the MBRP can and 2 more from this year.

I also added exhaust in my column....don't forget to post snow conditions under observation. Plays a huge factor

Here is a shortcut:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/post-your-clutch-setup.132429/
 

Hope I'm not talking out of turn here, but wouldn't it be nice to keep the original thread about NA clutching and start a different one about the turbo clutching?


Actually, the turbo setup is almost the same just a lot more weight on the weights.
 
For the guys running a stock secondary spring and helix, what happens first..does the stock spring bind up first or does the stock helix bottom out and stop shifting? I have stock spring and helix (43*) in my turbo viper. On the helix I had the neck machined to match what a dalton helix measures, haven't machined anything to eliminate the coil bind and mine is defiantly binding up at 109 mph. I'm just curious if I hadn't machined the neck on the helix to shift more if the helix would've bottomed out first or if the spring would've bound up first. Order the secondary spring from ulmer this morning so that should cure the problem, just curious what comes first.
 
The spring binds first. If you would run a different spring (thinner wire diameter) you wouldn't have any issues. The spring binds way before the helix bottoms out.
 
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The way you are geared without coil bind....I think you would be close to 118...maybe more the way your helix shoulder is machined.
 
Still gonna machine a bit more on the helix yet just to see what I can squeak out of it. Not going to touch the primary. I have 21/41 gearing on the way so after that there shouldn't be any top speed issue, I'll likely never run the 21/41 gearing completely out but should also help to keep the ltx from blowing the track out as i need a little higher engagement to clean up the really rich fueling on a wot launch
 
Be carefull how much you take off the helix as your belt will hit the drum in the center of the secondary. As of now the coil bind is the stop for the secondary opening full... Oops been there done that years ago racing. Had to throw that helix away. lol
 
The neck on my stock helix has been machined to match the exact specs of a dalton helix, so chances are I should leave it at that. Especially now with the 21/41 gearing coming I won't need to worry about freeing up that last few mph in the clutches. Right now with the spring out and the helix bolted on and sheaves opened all the way there is roughly 1/4-1/2 inch gap between the belt and center hub so it's still in safe territory.
 
The neck on my stock helix has been machined to match the exact specs of a dalton helix, so chances are I should leave it at that. Especially now with the 21/41 gearing coming I won't need to worry about freeing up that last few mph in the clutches. Right now with the spring out and the helix bolted on and sheaves opened all the way there is roughly 1/4-1/2 inch gap between the belt and center hub so it's still in safe territory.
Yes that is enough. Any more and the force of the pull from the primary could pull into center.
 
We'll leave it at that then, got 5 different primary springs, 3 different helix's, ulmers secondary spring and a couple different sets of weights, the sled is all washed and ready to go and I got the itch..oh wait, no snow:dunno:
 
it s
We'll leave it at that then, got 5 different primary springs, 3 different helix's, ulmers secondary spring and a couple different sets of weights, the sled is all washed and ready to go and I got the itch..oh wait, no snow:dunno:
it supposed to snow next couple days on tug hill you get your itch out
 


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