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Clutching on the cheap

Just found this Blue Dave :)

Hauck Helix
D 51/43
G 49/41
I 47/41
V 51/45
B 54/44
L 45/39
N 45/39
K 45/41
E 47/43
X 52/47
 

Studoes might be able to chime in here and repost some quick tips on freeing up some rolling hp witch could change the clutching a little too

Very true, a bone stock sled really benefits from a clutch kit, a bone stock sled also really benefits from freeing up the power lost in the suspension, all sleds have it. Do both and you'll benefit that much more.
 
Awesome! Can I use the Hauck "G" (49/41) helix?

If so, how will it react differently than the recommended 46/40 helix?

The 49 angle will bite more or ramp faster resulting in a quicker launch when the secondary spring is set correctly. Basically more pull on the engine. Might be a little less on rpm for take off but the ending result will be the same.

Didn't cost you anything .....I would run it :)
 
The 49 angle will bite more or ramp faster resulting in a quicker launch when the secondary spring is set correctly. Basically more pull on the engine. Might be a little less on rpm for take off but the ending result will be the same.

Didn't cost you anything .....I would run it :)

Thanks! Well it probably cost me plenty back in 2002. LOL! But your right, when you find something that you didn't know you had it is basically free!
 
Thanks so much for the fast response and especially for sharing your set-up. Most guys that spend the amount of time that you obviously have testing and tinkering do not want to share what they have learned with others. Thank you so much for sharing!!!!

I still have some additional questions for you. Specifically:

If I shim the helix to avoid secondary spring coil binding can I run my 8JP belt with no issues?
What thickness washers under the helix?
Stock secondary spring?
How many 1 mm primary spring shims?
What will my engagement RPM be?
Is there more than one location for the rivets? If so, which location do I use?
Which holes do I use for the secondary spring (how many degrees)?

Thanks again for the help!


One more thought Dave, the more primary clutch shims the more low and mid range. Too many shims slows top mph but adds in the middle. I run 6mm shim on mine, shim came from Bender Racing. Girlfriends runs a 7mm shim. but we do not care about top speed in the mountains. You might want to buy or make a 4mm and a 6mm shim to test, its quick and easy to change on the trail.
 
Stingray, have you thought running the short clutch cover? And what do you think of it?
 
One more thought Dave, the more primary clutch shims the more low and mid range. Too many shims slows top mph but adds in the middle. I run 6mm shim on mine, shim came from Bender Racing. Girlfriends runs a 7mm shim. but we do not care about top speed in the mountains. You might want to buy or make a 4mm and a 6mm shim to test, its quick and easy to change on the trail.

Thanks Stingray! I have three 1mm primary spring shims to play with. If needed I can buy more. I have the 8FP weights that were in my stock '07 Apex GT and I will be removing the rivets in the heal and center holes as Cannondale advised. I ordered the GWG primary spring and I will be trying my Hauck 49/41 helix.
 
Very true, a bone stock sled really benefits from a clutch kit, a bone stock sled also really benefits from freeing up the power lost in the suspension, all sleds have it. Do both and you'll benefit that much more.


Ok, I realize that this thread is about clutching but I am curious about your comment regarding "freeing up the power lost in the suspension". To avoid hijacking this thread can you send me a link to another thread that pertains to this subject?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Well, I just went through my spare clutching parts and was wondering if this is worth a try. I have a GWG spring, 4- 1mm spacers, 8fp weights, but for the secondary the only helix I have is a Apex 51-43 with a green or pink spring. My sled is a DX LTX running a hindle header with stock muffler , Hurricane pcv, and modded air box, stock gearing. Sled has 214 miles on it. I also have a Pioneer helix stamped PRXAS, but I do know what it is, tried e-mailing them but I did not get a reply.
 
Well, I just went through my spare clutching parts and was wondering if this is worth a try. I have a GWG spring, 4- 1mm spacers, 8fp weights, but for the secondary the only helix I have is a Apex 51-43 with a green or pink spring. My sled is a DX LTX running a hindle header with stock muffler , Hurricane pcv, and modded air box, stock gearing. Sled has 214 miles on it.

Just leave the stock helix in. Rest sounds great, although you may need more than just the 3.5 in the tip of the 8fp weights due to your mods after you get over 300 or so miles on it. Might add 2.5 in the middle in addition to the 3.5 in tip and let the RPM come to you as it breaks in
 
43 degree helix will hit the rev limiter on top end...just and FYI

Curious to see what that prxas helix angle would be.
 
Played with mine more yesterday, 6 pounds of boost, had stock 43 helix in and it felt good and had a nice steady pull, then put in the 50/46 helix I used last year and got the rpm right and it pulled way more on top end than with stock helix. Conditions sucked, it was just blowing soft snow but it ran the exact same mph on the tracks I had packed in as it did out in 6-8" of snow with zero tracks so it felt very consistent
 


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