Cracked tunnel cooler?

[15viperturbo]

I have a 2015 Yamaha viper. Was out on it today and it got hot on me. Put a pressure tester on it found a leak tightened up some hose clamps. And it was good for about 30 miles or so then started dumping all its coolant in about 2-3 miles guessing the cooler at the front of the track is cracked as that is we’re all the coolant seams to be leaking I can’t seem to find a crack but looking at the cooler online it appears the motor bolts to it as well? Just curious if anyone else has had one crack and if there are upgrades out there before I pull the track and motor out of this thing.

 

[DennyTuna]

Common issue, that heat exchanger cracks behind the secondary at the top near a weld. Seen it 3 times now. My nephew is replacing his on a 14 with 16,500 miles as I type this.

 

[74Nitro]

Common issue, that heat exchanger cracks behind the secondary at the top near a weld. Seen it 3 times now. My nephew is replacing his on a 14 with 16,500 miles as I type this.

I did one also this season exactly where you describe.

 

[captainruss99]

I just did one on my 16, 7000. It was leaking on the track side, left top corner. Very small leak, only when above 140 degrees. Big job to change, not hard, but very tedious. Buy it from Partzilla, you'll save $$ Don't have to pull engine!

 

[15viperturbo]

I just did one on my 16, 7000. It was leaking on the track side, left top corner. Very small leak, only when above 140 degrees. Big job to change, not hard, but very tedious. Buy it from Partzilla, you'll save $$ Don't have to pull engine!

Very glad to hear engine don’t have to come out! Yeah I was thinking partzilla thanks guys I’m calling that a season for me. Tear down and rebuild for next season.

 

[captainruss99]

Buy the yamaha rivets too, and buy more than they list. I bought 24 instead of 14 that I believe they called for.

 

[15viperturbo]

Buy the yamaha rivets too, and buy more than they list. I bought 24 instead of 14 that I believe they called for.

Thanks for mentioning I would have forgotten for sure.

 

[RobX-1]

Rather than paying for the overpriced OEM rivets (ie. $1+/rivet), a fellow TY'er had recommended these Avdel Stavex rivets to me when replacing a heat exchanger and I know others here have used them as well. They are just as good as OEM but are a heck of a lot cheaper. You used to be able to purchase them on eBay in bags of a 100 but I no longer see them there and it appears you may have to purchase direct from Bay Supply but here is another link as well.

 

[maim]

i keep 100 5/16" large and small head on hand for suspension mount repair, tunnel extensions, bulkhead to tunnel rivits, etc.

i do reccomend a harbour freight hydraulic rivit gun as they are a bugger to pull by hand with a good pop rivit gun.

 

[RobX-1]

i keep 100 5/16" large and small head on hand for suspension mount repair, tunnel extensions, bulkhead to tunnel rivits, etc.

i do reccomend a harbour freight hydraulic rivit gun as they are a bugger to pull by hand with a good pop rivit gun.

Funny you should mention the Harbor Freight air rivet gun Cameron as I saw over the weekend their 1/4" model is on clearance.

 

[maim]

Funny you should mention the Harbor Freight air rivet gun Cameron as I saw over the weekend their 1/4" model is on clearance.

lol wore my cheap one out with all the sleds and boats i fixed. got a mac tools one now. good thing as a tradesman i can deduct tools for my taxes.

 

[yamahaguy]

I have a 2015 Yamaha viper. Was out on it today and it got hot on me. Put a pressure tester on it found a leak tightened up some hose clamps. And it was good for about 30 miles or so then started dumping all its coolant in about 2-3 miles guessing the cooler at the front of the track is cracked as that is we’re all the coolant seams to be leaking I can’t seem to find a crack but looking at the cooler online it appears the motor bolts to it as well? Just curious if anyone else has had one crack and if there are upgrades out there before I pull the track and motor out of this thing.

Very common as everyone said. If you put in new heat exchanger make sure you have a good TIG welder beef up the welds on your new part. From factor the very small spot welds on the cross brace break off. Once they crack its just a matter of time before the motor mount cracks the weld on the water jacket at the top of the motor mount. I have 2 of these in the shop right now that broke the same spot welds and leak from the same spot at the top of the motor mount. After you do 2 or 3 of these its pretty easy and only takes 4-5 hours. Leave the motor in just roll it forward a bit and the exchanger drops out the bottom of the sled. Just remove the tank, header, secondary clutch and all bolts from the secondary bearing bracket but leave the jackshaft in the backet you only need a little movement to get at one rivet under it. Leave the chain chase and track/skid in the sled. Its at least a 6 beer job! Good luck!