Cross Shaft Damage and Repair info and pics

[TD Max]

What is the bearing material in there? I would have though that someone would have a nice oilite setup by now for this? A little slop at the steering post is one thing, but the bellcrank moving is pretty bad.

 

[cannondale27]

Yes please share as many pictures as possible. Im really sorry this happened but you weren't hurt which is the most important thing. How much is that subframe? How badly was it bent?

Subframe was about $165 and A-arm was about $80. Rivets and selftappers needed were about $20. If I stayed off computer I would say I have about 5hrs into it. To get subframe out Bulkhead (sheetmetal in front) has to be removed. None of those had Loctite and seemed real light torque even for a self tapper.

 

[cannondale27]

What is the bearing material in there? I would have though that someone would have a nice oilite setup by now for this? A little slop at the steering post is one thing, but the bellcrank moving is pretty bad.

It would be a pain to change. Cant lift it up high enough without hitting a crossmember riveted to bulkhead. Bushings are nylon or some type plastic. Hard to access probably reason no aftermarket.

 

[ViperRTX-Turbo009]

Has anyone else had cracks in there tunnel. Noticed this after the weekend. It's right at the front where the front suspension bolt is. (Carriage bolt)

 

[cannondale27]

That means the tierod your front arm floats on is bent. Remove it and replace with RR or LE shaft and bolt before it breaks and rips bolts right through tunnel. They also have little reinforcement plates for the cracked area

 

[birkebeiner]

That means the tierod your front arm floats on is bent. Remove it and replace with RR or LE shaft and bolt before it breaks and rips bolts right through tunnel. They also have little reinforcement plates for the cracked area

What's different on the RR or LE shaft?


Birkebeiner

 

[cannondale27]

RR/LE Shaft is 3/4in(.765) and the bolts go past the two collars. Stock RTX,LTX and Standard is identical to a tierod. Hollow aluminum and the bolts end right where the collars end. Thats a weak point. What happens is shaft bends contacting drivers and the drivers will rip it right off.

 

[ViperRTX-Turbo009]

It is off a 15 rtx le....

 

[ViperRTX-Turbo009]

And it's under warrantee I'm not to worried about it but ya... couldn't believe it's cracking

 

[cannondale27]

And it's under warrantee I'm not to worried about it but ya... couldn't believe it's cracking

Crap I didnt notice yours was a LE! That has the stronger shaft already. Look to the Cat race sleds for reinforcements. Looks like you may need them. I made a post somewhere of my repair. It also was covered under warranty but mine was worse than yours. Shaft was ripped right out.

 

[cannondale27]

Here.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/viper-cross-shaft-shears.135104/

Rumor I heard is the new race sleds have a steel shaft and reinforcement plates stock.

 

[ViperRTX-Turbo009]

Thanks! I had the skid.out last spring and I don't remember if the shaft was hallow or not but I was looking at it last night and I tapped it..Definitely sounds hollow to me. Probably just my luck get a regular shafts on my.so called beefed up le......


Thanks.for.your imputed tho.i appreciate it!!!

 

[cannondale27]

Just measure the OD of the shaft. In your sled it should be .765 or about 3/4in. The cheap junk shaft is .625 or 5/8in and hollow like a tierod.

 

[connor wilson]

what did the dealer do about the cracks? if its coverd underwarrenty? id want a new tunnle....

 

[tator]

went out for a ride. pulled out of the shed and down the trail. grinding noise form the track. i broke the rod but was lucky it didn't wreck anything. just wrecked a night or two of riding for me. which is worse my days are numbered. (newborn coming) not real happy right now