traverse tzeits
Veteran
Hi I have been trying to find some info on shimming by slip in the 5/16" lock washers between the Secondary's Sliding Sheave and the Spring Seat I tried this on my 06 attak with the spring removed and found that the helix did not touch the buttons when fully back shift potion or when the belt is at the top of the secondary clutch. Are you filing the slot in the fixed sheave to allow the two half’s to stay in contact with the buttons? (the buttons are in good shape and not wore under wear limit)
I also realize there will be no gain with out modifying the primary clutch to let the belt travel father out on the primary clutch.
thanks todd zeits
I also realize there will be no gain with out modifying the primary clutch to let the belt travel father out on the primary clutch.
thanks todd zeits
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
the washers go on the studs under the helix. the easiest way to see what happens in the clutch is to remove it from the sled, remove the spring and re-assemble it. when opening the sheaves you will see what stops it from opening. stock helix will bottom near the shaft, can be machined down to bushing for more clearance. aftermarket helixes are allready done. next to hit is ramp tips. the washers are a quick fix. when you drop the belt into the clutch you will see where it will run at full shift,right near the hub. remember that a stock primary will not shift that far. if it is also machined you can gear down and gain acceleration and still maintain top speed.
traverse tzeits
Veteran
How far can you cut the stock primary back before you would cause problems with the ramps sticking the primary closed?
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
the fixed sheave has 2 split rings at the bottom of the threads. when material is removed from the sheave the rings will be the next contact point. hauck sells thinner split rings or you can thin out the stock ones. i have never measured the amt. removed and if you are unsure about this mod then send your clutch to allen ulmer(site sponser) to have it done. i took an aftermarket overdrive sheave (hightech) that was much thicker than stock and had the proper taper machined back into the face, and went from there.
