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dead battery

jclee71

Extreme
Joined
Feb 16, 2008
Messages
82
Location
Northern NJ
went to start machine for first time of year and I turn key, it seems to cycle up properly but when I turn key to start position, nothing, no click, nothing. Sound like a dead battery?, battery tender says it is 80% or more charged but battery is about 5 years old any thoughts
 

tryed jumping it from my truck to battery leads, same thing nothing, got code 11, then took apart and tryed jumping directly to battery terminals, nothing, got code 22, what next
 
Here is a link to a list of the codes. Code 22 is because you unplugged the intake air temperature sensor when you removed the air box to get to your battery.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/download.php?id=77941

It sounds like your problem is not with the battery. Since you hear no click I would look at the starter relay next. First make sure that all of your electrical connections are clean and tight including the grounds. Are you proficient with an electrical meter? If so, check to see if you are getting 12V to the starter relay with the key in the cranking position and work backwards to the ignition switch.
 
Blue Dave said:
If you need a new battery you may want to consider upgrading to a YTX20H-BS which has more power and will fit perfectly without using the foam spacers.

Here is a link with more info on the upgraded battery.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... y&start=30

That is what I have in my Renegade ATV. I have a high compression big bore kit and the stock battery was not up to the task. This one works awesome....
 
tried new battery nothing changed, still cycles up but nothing else, checked green relay next to battery, think its the starter relay but seems ok, two red 10amp fuses look good, how do you jump the starter? have extended warranty just dont want to take to shop yet
 
jclee71 said:
tried new battery nothing changed, still cycles up but nothing else, checked green relay next to battery, think its the starter relay but seems ok, two red 10amp fuses look good, how do you jump the starter? have extended warranty just dont want to take to shop yet

Why not. That is why you bought an extended warranty right?
 
Blue Dave said:
jclee71 said:
tried new battery nothing changed, still cycles up but nothing else, checked green relay next to battery, think its the starter relay but seems ok, two red 10amp fuses look good, how do you jump the starter? have extended warranty just dont want to take to shop yet

Why not. That is why you bought an extended warranty right?

Because the dealer will 2 weeks to get around to looking at it
 
OK, did you check for power on the starter solenoid coil when the key is turned to the crank position? if so, check for voltage on the wire leading to the starter. If not, work backwards towards the ignition switch. This is a simple electrical circuit that is easy to troubleshoot if you have an electrical meter and some basic electrical knowledge.
 
thanks for input, working today but will look further tonight, hoping to leave for a short trip fri, thats why dont want to put in shop, hoping its the starter relay, it started no problem in early october, been sitting in trailer on battery tender jr since, we had real bad storm here and lost power for a week back around halloween, maybe it took a power surge and fried the relay
 
I doubt that a power surge went through your battery tender and damaged the starter relay. The coil of the starter relay is energized through the ECU so the ECU if anything would be the most likely electrical component that could be damaged by a power surge but I think that would be unlikely.

I took a minute and looked at my '07 Apex electrical schematics. I am not sure what model & year sled you have but if it is wired like mine you have red / white wire supplying + 12 vdc from the ECU to one side of the starter relay coil (and to many other relays and components on the sled). This red / white wire should be hot whenever the ignition switch is on and the kill switch is up. The ground is supplied to the starter relay coil on the blue / white wire which is connected to the ECU and to the key switch. When the blue / white wire is grounded by the key switch in the crank position the starter relay coil circuit is completed and the relay coil is energized. There is also an external diode module across the starter relay coil circuit.

When the starter relay coil is energized the normally open relay contacts are closed which is what energizes the starter. There is a large red wire on one relay contact that is fed from the positive terminal of the battery. The other relay contact feeds the + 12 vdc through a large black wire which is connected to the starter. The starter motor is inherently grounded by being attached to the engine. To test just the battery and starter you could jump across these two large relay contact terminals with a screw driver as was previously suggested which would eliminate everything else in the circuit from the relay back. However I wouldn't try this because it is very high current circuit and it could arc weld your screwdriver to the terminals.

If you are not hearing the starter relay click when the key is in the cranking position simply check the red /white and blue / white wires on the starter relay. The red / white wire should be hot with reference to ground all of the time when the key is on and the kill switch is up. The blue / white wire should be grounded when the key is in the cranking position. If you do not have 12 vdc across the relay coil circuit then you need to determine if you are missing the positive or negative side of the circuit. If you do have 12 vdc across the relay coil circuit but the contacts are not closing then it is probably a bad relay or a loose connection.

If you need help send me a PM with your phone number and I will be happy to walk you through the troubleshooting over the phone while you are at your sled.
 


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