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Drive/jackshaft bearing repacking

Is it a pain to remove the lower bearing in chaincase and the other side to replace them?
 

cannondale27 said:
The aluminum frame piece that holds the bearing
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I changed out my track today and I noticed that the bearing is in the frame piece that the caliper is attached to. That black ring inside the tunnel where the three bolts go through is very flimsy and I noticed it doesn't lay real flat as you tighten the bolts. That's not what your talking about is it?
 
XP123 said:
I changed out my track today and I noticed that the bearing is in the frame piece that the caliper is attached to. That black ring inside the tunnel where the three bolts go through is very flimsy and I noticed it doesn't lay real flat as you tighten the bolts. That's not what your talking about is it?
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No. Jackshaft bearing. That flimsy piece you are talking about really just protects the driveshaft bearing. Nothing to worry about if it's not flat.
 
cannondale27 said:
No. Jackshaft bearing. That flimsy piece you are talking about really just protects the driveshaft bearing. Nothing to worry about if it's not flat.
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Thanks I didn't think it would make any difference. I haven't changed a track out in a few years and many things have changed since. Everything went very well and I was able to familiarize myself with this new sled. One thing that helped a lot was reading to use a ratchet strap to pull the tunnel together or you would never get the ring clip on the brake rotor. That's why these forums are so awesome for getting info.
 
cannondale27 said:
I wish I could Kodak but it's all together already. Feel free to ask any questions. If anyone feels uncomfortable doing this start with just the Jackshaft bearing I feel at least for this year that is almost mandatory. I don't believe mine would have survived the coming season it was that dry and dirty.

For the driveshaft bearing you will need a good snapring pliers to remove the clip. You will remove the footwell,Caliper guard and the screw holding top of bellypan out. This allows you to pull belly pan side out enough to have plenty of room to use the pliers.
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Your method was very simple. Any tips on bleeding besides a pump what a pia.
 
I just went through it. Make sure you are opening the bleed screw up enough. I refilled my reservoir at least 10 times but after someone here gave me this tip, it worked immediately. Easy after that tip. Didn't need a pump.
 
Kkurz said:
I just went through it. Make sure you are opening the bleed screw up enough. I refilled my reservoir at least 10 times but after someone here gave me this tip, it worked immediately. Easy after that tip. Didn't need a pump.
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Thanks.
 
Looking for some suggestions, I’m tying to remove the brake rotor to get at the drive bearing on a friends 2014 viper. I first tried to remove the whole assembly all in one piece by removing the 3 bolts from the backside like I was able to do with my sidewinder but that didn’t work so then I put the 3 bolts back in and split the calliper but the rotor still won’t come off. The rotor moves freely until it gets to the end of the shaft. It should just slide off I don’t have to remove anything else correct? It looks like the C clip marked up the spline witch is preventing the rotor to come off. Is my next step a big puller?

Thanks, Jason
 
I think I would try to clean up the splines with a small file or some sandpaper. The clip probably has shoved a bit of a burr on the edge of the spline. I'm pretty sure there's info in the stickies about it.
 
Last edited:
TD Max said:
I wonder about using a grease injection needle? You won't necessarily know if it was dry or sloppy, but you can do this quick and easy and the rubber seals the hole back up.

images
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This is what i used to do mine. Was able to sneak it in on axle side!!
 
Goose1200 said:
Looking for some suggestions, I’m tying to remove the brake rotor to get at the drive bearing on a friends 2014 viper. I first tried to remove the whole assembly all in one piece by removing the 3 bolts from the backside like I was able to do with my sidewinder but that didn’t work so then I put the 3 bolts back in and split the calliper but the rotor still won’t come off. The rotor moves freely until it gets to the end of the shaft. It should just slide off I don’t have to remove anything else correct? It looks like the C clip marked up the spline witch is preventing the rotor to come off. Is my next step a big puller?

Thanks, Jason
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Were you able to get your rotor off? Mine is giving me the same issue and i can't get it past the end of the shaft either....very annoying! How did you end up getting it off?
 
scott bardwell said:
Were you able to get your rotor off? Mine is giving me the same issue and i can't get it past the end of the shaft either....very annoying! How did you end up getting it off?
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I didn’t end up getting it off unfortunately. I tried to file all the grooves to help and also tried a homemade puller but decided to stop before I broke something and I also ran out of time as he wanted his sled back. I was just trying to service the bearing while I had the sled in my garage so it wasn’t urgent I get it off during the season. But I’m sure I will have to deal with it soon. Lol
Hopefully you have better luck with trying to file the grooves on your sled and let us know if you have success with it

Jason
 
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