Driveshaft dry side bearing,who has P/N and who has replacement for the stock bearing

[snowbeast]

Hi,i tried to look up bearing on Babbitts and port Yamaha and could not find P/N for stock bearing that has been spinning in race,and around 3000 miles may become a problem. Canandale (steve) showed how to peen it to stop spinning,and I thought he had a USA made bearing to replace it with,does anyone have info on that? And what is the procedure for removal of that bearing,it looks very tight down there behind the brake rotor.

 

[Pstn head]

I'm not sure the American made bearing P/N...but to remove and replace that bearing that whole aluminum part holding the caliper, and housing the bearing, (no idea what it's called) needs to be removed from the machine and the old bearing pressed out.

 

[craigwsrx]

The best way is to remove the 3 bolts from the back side which hold the brake and bearing carrier assembly to tunnel. With that out on the bench remove snap ring which holds bearing in housing to remove and replace bearing. If axle shaft spun inside bearing you may need to replace axle shaft. I had to replace mine as the axle spun to long and wore beyond repair. I knurled where bearing rides on axle to tighten up clearance. Not sure if peening will work in all cases as is will be determined by wear on axle surface. I have replaced mine twice in 9,000 miles. Need to service this bearing at least every 2,000 miles as my replacement bearing was gone again at 3,200 miles. Yamaha part number for bearing is 8JP-RAG06-00-00. Here is a picture of knurled bearing which tightened mine up so axle will fit snug in bearing so bearing will turn as designed.

 

[snowbeast]

The best way is to remove the 3 bolts from the back side which hold the brake and bearing carrier assembly to tunnel. With that out on the bench remove snap ring which holds bearing in housing to remove and replace bearing. If axle shaft spun inside bearing you may need to replace axle shaft. I had to replace mine as the axle spun to long and wore beyond repair. I knurled where bearing rides on axle to tighten up clearance. Not sure if peening will work in all cases as is will be determined by wear on axle surface. I have replaced mine twice in 9,000 miles. Need to service this bearing at least every 2,000 miles as my replacement bearing was gone again at 3,200 miles. Yamaha part number for bearing is 8JP-RAG06-00-00. Here is a picture of knurled bearing which tightened mine up so axle will fit snug in bearing so bearing will turn as designed.

OK thanks guys,ya I did find that bearing P/N once I looked under brake assm. so I should be able to remove this bearing in housing and not remove track and take shaft completely out.

 

[snowbeast]

I'm not sure the American made bearing P/N...but to remove and replace that bearing that whole aluminum part holding the caliper, and housing the bearing, (no idea what it's called) needs to be removed from the machine and the old bearing pressed out.

Do you need to remove the bottom plastic skid plate,the piece riveted on,in order to remove all the parts to slide caliper and housing off?

 

[Pstn head]

OK thanks guys,ya I did find that bearing P/N once I looked under brake assm. so I should be able to remove this bearing in housing and not remove track and take shaft completely out.

Track and shaft do not need to come out.

 

[cannondale27]

Do you need to remove the bottom plastic skid plate,the piece riveted on,in order to remove all the parts to slide caliper and housing off?

No. The key to getting the disc and caliper off is patience and only use hands. In and out and wiggle repeat. The disc puts a burr on splines by clip that can be difficult to get disc over. Be patient and don't force it or it can jam on there badly. I got 8000 mi from stock bearing which I cleaned and regreased every season. Was replaced with entire caliper under warranty when pads wore a big groove in caliper because they slide on the aluminum rather than a stainless insert like a proper caliper has.

 

[Pstn head]

Do you need to remove the bottom plastic skid plate,the piece riveted on,in order to remove all the parts to slide caliper and housing off?

It's not necessary, but it's a hell of a lot easier... Plus you can do the rivet nut modification while your at it.

 

[cannondale27]

Once disc clears shaft there is a cutaway in caliper to allow it to slide out.

 

[Pstn head]

Oh! And loosen track off, it'll reduce tension on driveshaft.

 

[XP123]

I repacked my bearing last year and it's not a bad job. I did have to split the caliper to get the rotor off and if you at planning on replacing the bearing this would be the best way to do it. After you split the bearing you can take the bearing and one half of the caliper over to your bench and remove the bearing.

 

[snowbeast]

Track and shaft do not need to come out.

Awsome,thats what I wanted to hear.

 

[snowbeast]

It's not necessary, but it's a hell of a lot easier... Plus you can do the rivet nut modification while your at it.

Yes,thats what I was thinking to,have you done the rivet nut mod. if so where can I buy the kit to do both sides with? Thanks Pete

 

[snowbeast]

Once disc clears shaft there is a cutaway in caliper to allow it to slide out.

Are you talking about the case that holds the bearing steve,looks like there are 3 screws holding the plates on around the bearing,and two screws holding the caliper togeather,once the lg. circlip is out,do you press the bearing out of case than?

 

[snowbeast]

Oh! And loosen track off, it'll reduce tension on driveshaft.

Good advice,i may have forgot about that trick... Thanks