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Driveshaft or jack shaft bearing?

anyone have the jack shaft driveshaft bearing go and take out the complete chain case...?
next question can this chew up the track??
 

First time leaving a message here. So please forgive me for errors.
Just to let you reader now, I have a 2014 SR Viper SE 137. The Jack shaft bearing, yes the one behind the secondary clutch just went on mine. It has 5400 miles or 8650 Kms. Yes it went before the drive shaft bearing. It felt like a terrible vibration. Like ice build up on the Nytro XTX's. Check yours out before you have the same expenses as me!
 
First time leaving a message here. So please forgive me for errors.
Just to let you reader now, I have a 2014 SR Viper SE 137. The Jack shaft bearing, yes the one behind the secondary clutch just went on mine. It has 5400 miles or 8650 Kms. Yes it went before the drive shaft bearing. It felt like a terrible vibration. Like ice build up on the Nytro XTX's. Check yours out before you have the same expenses as me!

And pop out the seals every season and check if the bearing is dry. You need some high quality grease for that high speed and wide temp range. I have been testing different grease and some poor grease is like hot butter in that bearing.
 
I feel. The same vibration on my left foot. The bearings on my sled are supposed to be brand new unless. The dealer lied to me and just charged m and didn't do it.. I feel. The vibration as soon as you start moving up to about 50 mph then it goes away.. I checked the bearing behind the secondary it looked good..
 
I feel. The same vibration on my left foot. The bearings on my sled are supposed to be brand new unless. The dealer lied to me and just charged m and didn't do it.. I feel. The vibration as soon as you start moving up to about 50 mph then it goes away.. I checked the bearing behind the secondary it looked good..
Does it change with terrain? Look at track also. When mine tore out little 4” flap was noticeable and it was right at 50mph.
 
Does it change with terrain? Look at track also. When mine tore out little 4” flap was noticeable and it was right at 50mph.
The track is brand new only 300 miles in it. We are having a shitty winter don't got much snow... But ya it does change from let' s driving down a road that' s covered (I feel it pretty good) to down where there is more snow not as much (but I still feel. It) is. That just kinda the way it is? I have a ripsaw 1.5" track installed
 
The track is brand new only 300 miles in it. We are having a shitty winter don't got much snow... But ya it does change from let' s driving down a road that' s covered (I feel it pretty good) to down where there is more snow not as much (but I still feel. It) is. That just kinda the way it is? I have a ripsaw 1.5" track installed
I believe what you are feeling is the Cat in our Yamahas. Honestly drove me nuts when I first bought it and then a old big time Yamaha rider of 65 years old Pete Becker whos a legend around here rode mine and complained of the vibrations right away. Bummed me out a bit but got used to it and it gradually went away with wear and was eliminated when I put introvert drivers in. But I rode it for almost 9000mi with more vibration than any Yamaha I have driven before. Is what it is.
 
My Viper jack shaft and drive shaft bearings after 1800 miles. They were a little dry for my liking but did not have dirt or grime in them. Repacked them with Mobile1 synthetic moly-lube for high speed and high shear load applications. Use this stuff on all bearings in all sleds and it far out performs all other greases I have used. I can go 2-3 years between cleaning and repacking skid wheel bearings using this stuff. Have a '99 SX with 13,000+ miles on it and it still has original skid wheel bearings because of this grease.
I took the brake caliper loose from tunnel which made it easier to access the drive shaft bearing but, the snap ring that holds the brake rotor on the drive shaft is a rear b.i.c.-itch to get back on and in the ring-land.


 
My Viper jack shaft and drive shaft bearings after 1800 miles. They were a little dry for my liking but did not have dirt or grime in them. Repacked them with Mobile1 synthetic moly-lube for high speed and high shear load applications. Use this stuff on all bearings in all sleds and it far out performs all other greases I have used. I can go 2-3 years between cleaning and repacking skid wheel bearings using this stuff. Have a '99 SX with 13,000+ miles on it and it still has original skid wheel bearings because of this grease.
I took the brake caliper loose from tunnel which made it easier to access the drive shaft bearing but, the snap ring that holds the brake rotor on the drive shaft is a rear b.i.c.-itch to get back on and in the ring-land.


Nice job! In process of doing this job myself. I have had great luck with the Mobil grease too. It's a kinda crappy job but sure saves some cash and really think about it a wheel is over $20 only takes about ten minutes each to do the job. That's good $ saved! Last season I got lazy and just decided to replace all bearings. 9000mi. Well all dealer had was some cheap o's. BAD idea. They did not even make a season. Lost two wheels. OEM bearings are all good bearings in my opinion. Grease and they will last. Hoping to be done with skid and shocks this week and moving forward to rest. Thanks for sharing and the inspiration!
 
Going to have to get some of that Mobile 1 synthetic grease..... Thanks
 
Nice job! In process of doing this job myself. I have had great luck with the Mobil grease too. It's a kinda crappy job but sure saves some cash and really think about it a wheel is over $20 only takes about ten minutes each to do the job. That's good $ saved! Last season I got lazy and just decided to replace all bearings. 9000mi. Well all dealer had was some cheap o's. BAD idea. They did not even make a season. Lost two wheels. OEM bearings are all good bearings in my opinion. Grease and they will last. Hoping to be done with skid and shocks this week and moving forward to rest. Thanks for sharing and the inspiration!
Cannondale, I have a funny story. A few years ago I had a customer restoring 81 TXL 340 Pol. He had me do engine work, but he did chassis work. He was big on using the cheapest parts he could get. On those sleds the chaincase had no seals, they just relied on the seal of the bearing to prevent oil from leaking. After driving the machine, he calls and says he has oil leak from chaincase. It was because the seals in the cheapie bearings were such poor quality, the oil travelled right through. Replaced with KOYO, problem solved. Often, using cheap parts costs more in the long run.
 
Cannondale, I have a funny story. A few years ago I had a customer restoring 81 TXL 340 Pol. He had me do engine work, but he did chassis work. He was big on using the cheapest parts he could get. On those sleds the chaincase had no seals, they just relied on the seal of the bearing to prevent oil from leaking. After driving the machine, he calls and says he has oil leak from chaincase. It was because the seals in the cheapie bearings were such poor quality, the oil travelled right through. Replaced with KOYO, problem solved. Often, using cheap parts costs more in the long run.
All the cheap bearings I used the little lip on seal that contacts inner race was gone. So wide open to dirt and water. Never again!
 
Hi all ... speaking of bearings ... lower clutch side ( brake ) on a 2015 viper ltx stock ... is SKF #6009-2rs1/c3 or a skf 6009-2rs JEM are Ok options ? I know a 6009-2rs is required but I'm not sure about the c3 clearance. ... Thanks !!!
 
Is it possible to access the driveshaft bearing behind the caliper without splitting the caliper? I'd like to repack mine and would rather not have to tear the caliper apart.
Thanks Kevin.
 
Is it possible to access the driveshaft bearing behind the caliper without splitting the caliper? I'd like to repack mine and would rather not have to tear the caliper apart.
Thanks Kevin.
Yes you should be able too once disc and pads are removed.
 


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