Evo Reflash With MCX Turbo

I would suggest turning the boost down with the actuator and ride it and enjoy - its a great kit! If you need help doing that there's a bunch of us that can help you with it - just ask!
 
All my buddies that got a dealer installed MCX I had to turn their boost down for them once they got the sled home.
 
All my buddies that got a dealer installed MCX I had to turn their boost down for them once they got the sled home.

I've tried to turn the boost down with the actuator but it still requires too much pressure to open the wastegate. I have a spring on the actuator rod and it is helping. But it is not very consistent. 4 psi to 6 psi. On the evo website they advertise you can safely run 2-3 more psi with their flash. Not sure what to do..
 
I would suggest turning the boost down with the actuator and ride it and enjoy - its a great kit! If you need help doing that there's a bunch of us that can help you with it - just ask!

Yeah I was told it was a great kit by a few. But it hasn't worked properly since I bought it.. and I've received zero help on the issue.
 
I've tried to turn the boost down with the actuator but it still requires too much pressure to open the wastegate. I have a spring on the actuator rod and it is helping. But it is not very consistent. 4 psi to 6 psi. On the evo website they advertise you can safely run 2-3 more psi with their flash. Not sure what to do..

Well my understanding from Allen Ulmer is that yes you can run 2 to 3 lbs more safely but that is assuming you are running an MPI trail turbo not an MXC 190 or MPI Stage I. I can tell you first hand that 7lbs is dangerous and cost about $7000 to repair depending on your altitude. The stock pump and injectors are not capable of sustaining a WOT run and it will go lean. The trail turbo is usually between 4 to 5 lbs of boost. What they are referring to is the fact that you can safely run to 7.5 lbs of boost at sea level on pump gas because of the retarding of the timing without the need for a head shim or running race fuel.

upgrading the fuel pump $700 ish
4th injector and additional gems controller $450 ish
AFR at WOT 10.5 priceless or about $5,800 cheaper than re-build:o|
 
I have never closely examined the MCX kit but I assume the wastegate is similar to that in the MPI. I can tell you that when my sled was originally built Yamahatim had his done at the same time and place. after the 1st ride his was a killer and mine was a dog. I added a boost gauge the next week and found that I was only hitting 3.5 lbs his was at 5. even though they were the same kit installed by the same guy he had 50% of the threads left on his rod for adjustment and mine was tight to the end of the threads. I had to remove the 2nd jam (lock ) nut to get mine to go to 5 lbs of boost.

wastegate rod.jpg
 
If they are saying 7.5 lbs is safe with the flash at sea level I would be happy. I just need bigger injectors. I don't believe I need a bigger fuel pump for 7.5-8psi.

I've adjusted my actuator from one end to the other.. It made very very little difference.

The spring is the only thing that made a difference... The actuator is the problem I believe.

Its difficult to take a decent pic, so I edited a couple pics together so you can get an idea..
 

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Yeah that is a bit different than ours. ours is pretty much open and ion front of everything
 
Its difficult to get at, but it serves the same purpose. You can see the black spring I placed on the rod, at the head end it just rests on the alum bracket, and on the other end I placed a washer by the jam nut.. It got me down from 8 psi to 6 psi. I'd just like to be able to use the actuator without the spring I placed on it. Only way to get an answer it seems is to pay the big bucks and figure it out myself.
 
If they are saying 7.5 lbs is safe with the flash at sea level I would be happy. I just need bigger injectors. I don't believe I need a bigger fuel pump for 7.5-8psi.

I've adjusted my actuator from one end to the other.. It made very very little difference.

The spring is the only thing that made a difference... The actuator is the problem I believe.

Its difficult to take a decent pic, so I edited a couple pics together so you can get an idea..

Make sure the actuator is not "binding" too, and that the boost line it isn't pinched or leaking boost any where - next step I would do is replace the actuator as the diaphragm inside may be ripped and leaking. You should be able to get boost down by simply lengthening the rod. I would try to correct the problem, not make a band aid solution. If there's a tear in the actuator it could get bigger and boost you to a even higher level. If you want more direct help you can pm me and I will send you my phone # and walk you through how to test the actuator.
 
Make sure the actuator is not "binding" too, and that the boost line it isn't pinched or leaking boost any where - next step I would do is replace the actuator as the diaphragm inside may be ripped and leaking. You should be able to get boost down by simply lengthening the rod. I would try to correct the problem, not make a band aid solution. If there's a tear in the actuator it could get bigger and boost you to a even higher level. If you want more direct help you can pm me and I will send you my phone # and walk you through how to test the actuator.

I greatly appreciate your help. I've tested the actuator numerous times. I would need to check my notes to be sure, but I believe it begins to actuate at 5psi and fully open at 8psi. It also holds air. So it shouldn't be ripped. The arm isn't binding either. It operates as it should. I've video recorded all my findings and sent them to Erik in Sweden as well.. He says everything is working the way it should.. He wouldn't tell me what the AFR should be at.. he wanted everything to be converted to KPA and Lambda. I also asked if he would send me a new actuator, one rated for a lower psi. He told me the one I have is the lowest they have and they all work properly.

I will check once again that all the lines are fine. I totally went through the entire machine last year, wasted the winter tinkering with this kit.. It was not a fun time for me.. Either way, I have checked the lines in the past but I will do it again.

This isn't the first MCX kit to overboost.. Unfortunately there have been several engine blow because of overboost. I know of a dealer in New Brunswick who welded and lengthened the rods so that the wastegate would be open a little all the time.. That was the only way he could get the boost down.. He lost 3 engines prior to that.

So as it is a bandaid fix.. I'm out of options. The only way I could get the boost down was with the spring you see in the picture I posted... So to me the actuator is the main problem, and a lower rated psi actuator would solve the problem.. but apparently they don't exist.
 
Have you tried bypassing your tcv?
Yes. it's currently unplugged. with it plugged in it shoots the boost back up to 8psi with or without the spring I installed.
 


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