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Exhaust Donut Replacement Procedure

A little heat around the bolts and they usually come out without braking the heads off.
 

The apex I worked on yesterday, had the clutch side flex pipe broken, and the guy broke the m8 x 1.25 flange bolt. Had to use an angle drill, but could not get what was left of the original bolt out, using ez outs and those left hand threaded screw extractors...had so much torque I broke off the drive but not the extractor.
Possibly was cross threaded when the previous owner had it. In any case, the original m8 has a major diameter around .306 and a minor diameter around .260 (from memory, may not be exact). Anyway, drilled and tapped it for 1/4-20 and torqued the flange up tight. Used a grade 8 bolt. Logic was, if the threads were crossed, we couldnt use them anyway, so would have to go bigger, either an insert or helicoil, or 5/16 - 18. Not sure how much stock is there so went with the 1/4-20..can always go bigger if theres a problem, but I doubt it...its in there tight! In a way, the m8 bolt is acting like a helicoil.
But what a pain in the arse!!
Nice, at least you were able to get some sort of use out of the original bolt!
 
also just drill out exhaust bracket to remove pipe. The kit even includes new rivits to put bracket back on!
When you removed pipe, I'm assuming you dropped the rear skid?
 
No didn’t have to. All came out as one just as is.
I haven’t seen the instructions yet, but I want to prep my Rx-1 for it when I get the kit. I believe with a 4 cylinder a person needs to drop the rear skid
 
I
So, if the clamps can't be rotated, everything seems tight, then the exhaust gaskets are likely still good? (2013 Vector LTX (17500KM (10,800 miles). Not so much room when you have the power steering unit in the way.
Pulled it apart to inspect, as I sold the sled to my nephew. However, trying to get the clamp bolts free is already proving a challenge (COVID lock down makes ordering the MAP torch very slow).
Yes, I'm already here, but the next steps are where things break or get stripped. Working around the power steering unit has already been enough "fun".
I haven’t seen the instructions yet, but I want to prep my Rx-1 for it when I get the kit. I believe with a 4 cylinder a person needs to drop the rear skid
 
Hi all in this thread. I’m not sure how to post a question, so asking here. I have a new to me 2007 vector with 4600 mile. I am a newbie. I bought the kit from FX garage to replace the donut issue. I took the 8 rivets out of the exhaust hanger. I still need to unbolt the y pipe from the hanger to remove it from the tunnel. One of the hex button bolts came out with pb blaster after a day. The other is stripped. I looked at the bolt from below and the bolt looks like it is missing a small
Chunk so it won’t move. Any ideas on how to remove the last bolt??? Should I drill from the bottom? The top of it is stripped and I broke an easy out in it so I can’t drill from the top and make any progress. //;&@();!!!! 5FC7106D-7C0F-4724-A305-6099D2EAC665.jpeg6CFC445E-2614-4887-9616-5A1596976812.jpeg
 
Hi all in this thread. I’m not sure how to post a question, so asking here. I have a new to me 2007 vector with 4600 mile. I am a newbie. I bought the kit from FX garage to replace the donut issue. I took the 8 rivets out of the exhaust hanger. I still need to unbolt the y pipe from the hanger to remove it from the tunnel. One of the hex button bolts came out with pb blaster after a day. The other is stripped. I looked at the bolt from below and the bolt looks like it is missing a small
Chunk so it won’t move. Any ideas on how to remove the last bolt??? Should I drill from the bottom? The top of it is stripped and I broke an easy out in it so I can’t drill from the top and make any progress. //;&@();!!!!View attachment 172033View attachment 172034
 
Get socket that looks like and easy out that goes over the stripped head. Use heat on bolt.
 
Added picture of bolt it is a button head. With Allen head.
 

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