Exhaust Joint Question

[RobX-1]

I seem to have a small exhaust leak and judging by the sound of it, I have pin-pointed it be the exhaust joint (see pic). At first I thought I might need to replace the gaskets but when I took my tank off and the access panel, I noticed I could turn 3 of the 4 clamps by hand. I tried to tighten the clamp but the bolt doesn't seem to want to budge. Taking a closer look at the clamp bolt and the spacer, it doesn't really look like I can tighten it too much more. This almost sounds like too dumb of a question to ask as I would think they should, but are these clamps suppose to be somewhat loose (be spun by hand). If I end up needing to relace the gaskets, they're only $9 each but want to make sure this leak isn't being caused by something else. Never had to mess with this exhaust joint so this is unfamilar terroritory for me. I did relace my stock exhaust with an aftermarket and wonder if I fudged up these gaskets when struggling to get my exhaust off at the cross-over.

 

[grader]

the clamps in the picture are hinged on one side and the bolt tightens it. remove clamp and grind the area where the clamp touches when closed. this will allow clamps to tighten and not spin. while your there, check the doughnut gaskets and lay a bead of high heat silicone inside the clamp. this will help reduce wear on the gaskets and seal things up tight.

 

[race24x]

I had my header replaced according to the dealer they crack insode the joint its like a double walled header and you cant really see where the noise is coming from. I am not saying that has happened to you but check it closely or ask a dealer for more detail it might help

 

[YAMAHAMMER101]

I also had the same problem late last season and after checking. I found that two of the four header pipes were cracked inside of the bellows. I would also reccomend checking that while you are in there. The cracks are hard to see.

 

[kinger]

What does the leak sound like at this connection, is it a lot louder or tick like a normal exhaust manifold leak on a car? Thanks!

 

[low flying missile]

exhaust leak

I just changed the donuts on my 03. The dealer says the donuts were thicker on the later models. If the clamps can spin then you definetly need to change them. With the new donuts, the machine is much quieter and a really annoying buzz that occured when I blipped the throttle is gone. The machine seems to idle a little smoother which in turn makes the rattle from the gear reduction less. I decide to change the donuts because I was replacing the 03 seat with a 06 Apex seat and was in there anyway. I was very pleasantly surprised with what resulted.

 

[RobX-1]

What does the leak sound like at this connection, is it a lot louder or tick like a normal exhaust manifold leak on a car? Thanks!

Definitely not louder; just a small minor tick or air mist of sorts. Actually, it was only noticeable when sticking your head under the sled but now that I have the tank and panel off, I can hear it better.

As for using some high temp silicone to seal everything up better, I was wondering about doing that but was worried it might be a temp fix for something else that is wrong or would have to tear back into it later down the road.

Thanks for everyone's input but now I have some more questions. First, if it's a cracked header, then I will be utilizing my last year of my extended warranty (not to mention me wanting them to replace my 03 coils). If, however, it's the gasket or clamps, this is most likely not something covered under the extended warranty, correct? About the clamps, can they stretch or loose their adjustment over time and need to be replace. It was mentioned that if I can rotate them, to replace them. I don't think I can tighten them anymore so I was wondering if that means they need to replace. If that's the case, then it surely would seem the clamps are my problem since 3 of them were loose and do not appear to be tighten anymore. But, now you guys have given me some other ideas (cracked header) where I need to take a closer look. Of course, it doesn't help when you read that the cracks are hard to see. Maybe a dealer service call is in order but when your previous dealer closes shop, it makes the task a little harder. I know the extended warranty will carry over but hated to loose that dealer relationship we had.

 

[suprfst]

I ground down the clamps so they would close tighter when I replaced my donut gaskets as well.

My sled started popping on deceleration as well as hearing the exhaust leak.

 

[RobX-1]

I just loosened one of the clamps and found they were as tight as they were going to get; outside of grounding the clamp like you guys have stated. My thinking is to replace the gaskets and clamps first and see if it resolves the leak. By having three of the four clamps loose, I'm betting they are the root cause. If not, I'll focus on the header and if that turns out to be the case, replacing the gaskets and clamps wowould have been something I would have done anyway. And if the header is faulty, at least I will know the next tear down will not come on my time or at my expense because of the warranty.

Now before I place my order at Port Yamaha (Hey Kevin, nice plug, ey), would it better to simply ground the old clamps or get new ones? It sounds like the new gasket may not be as thick; although the part numbers for both the gaskets and clamps do not appear to have changed.

Thanks again for all of your input!

 

[JDMCRX]

I just pulled my motor apart and had a exhaust rattle and we thought it was lower heat shields. Turns out all the the exhaust gaskets were gone worn out

 

[suprfst]

You shouldnt need new clamps just the donuts.The reason your clamps are loose is more than likely because thier is nothing left to the donuts.that was the case with mine.The donuts are amazingly soft so be carefull with them.

 

[RobX-1]

Turns out all the the exhaust gaskets were gone worn out

You shouldnt need new clamps just the donuts.The reason your clamps are loose is more than likely because thier is nothing left to the donuts.

Boy, were you two right on the money. Just to be sure I had everything I thought I would need for the order as I always seem to strip a bolt here and there, I decided to remove all the clamps and when these guys say worn, they weren't joking. One gasket I think is completely gone and two are torn in half and fell off and the last one was intact but was definitely worn out. I think I will hold off on the clamps and just get the gaskets as suggested.

Now, for anyone that has had to replace these gaskets I have a few questions. I still have the whole exhaust connected except at the header pipe. Do you have to completely remove the rear exhaust to slide the cross-over pipes forward far enough to get access to the gaskets? I've removed the rear exhaust before when installing my QC-1 and did not enjoy it one bit. Had one heck of a time getting the darn exhaust loose from the cross-over. The reason I ask is that I wonder if it would be easier to just remove the four header pipes. The gasket is only around $7 (cheaper than two new gaskets I would need for the rear exhaust at the cross-over) and I would not have to drop my skid. Since I've removed the clamps and the two bolts that screw into the cross-over, could the entire exhaust be slid out far enough to relace these gaskets? This would be preferred as I wouldn't have to disconnect the rear exhaust at the cross-over and replace those gaskets nor would I have to remove the header pipes and replace that gasket. I've tried to slide it back as far as I can but the cross-over pipe is still too close to the header pipes to be able to fit the gaskets in there without messing them up. Seeing first hand how soft these are, I don't won't to force them in there. It appears I may have to disconnect the cross-over pipe from the rear exhaust in order to clear the cross-over pipe from the openings in the tunnel. That is why I am thinking maybe taking the header pipes off may be the better route.

 

[suprfst]

Whe I did it I left the muffler on and just took the bolts out and slid it back as far as I could,which wasnt quite far enough.I had to pry the accordion looking tubes forward slighly to get the new donuts in place.I remember thinking the next time I had to do it I would order the exhaust gaskets as well and just remove each of the four short accordion pipes.

 

[RobX-1]

That's exactly what I am running into now. I think removing the 4 header pipes is the route to go seeing the gasket is inexpensive. I just wasn't sure if removing them was a bad thing.