Doc Harley
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When drilling out rivots & replacing with rivnuts. What size thread? Aluminum or steel?
Dr. FeeLGooD
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sab2022
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Yes see the the RockerDan thread above.
He recommended eventually, and I installed, SS rivnuts and machine screws (hardware) (10-24.3/4"). You need a quality rivnut tool (mandrel) for SS rivnuts. I used Astro (1442 $1443B). Remove the top shock nut to get the ninth rivnut, or buy the $20 harbor freight tool to do just the ninth rivnut (both sides) - be-careful squeezing because the HF tool snaps (breaks) with SS rivnuts . I'm going to use rivnuts on my ATV that uses push-pins.
Also see
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/rivet-nuts.152114/
He recommended eventually, and I installed, SS rivnuts and machine screws (hardware) (10-24.3/4"). You need a quality rivnut tool (mandrel) for SS rivnuts. I used Astro (1442 $1443B). Remove the top shock nut to get the ninth rivnut, or buy the $20 harbor freight tool to do just the ninth rivnut (both sides) - be-careful squeezing because the HF tool snaps (breaks) with SS rivnuts . I'm going to use rivnuts on my ATV that uses push-pins.
Also see
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/rivet-nuts.152114/
sab2022
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Oh, need a floor jack not a sled lift
Doc Harley
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UGH.....sled lift get in the way?Oh, need a floor jack not a sled lift
yamamarc
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Yes put the sled on the floor to drill out rivet and install rivet nuts.UGH.....sled lift get in the way?
The frame of my lift runs along the tunnel directly below the rivet in belly that need to be driled
sab2022
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From the front of the sled, I just put a floor jack offset from center a little bit with wood blocks and lifter up from the front. just enough to be comfortable. Do one side then the other. I put two (2) jack stands underneath also for safety (always). Guess I'll been working on cars too long. Underneath you need room for the drill and the bit to come in square to the rivet (don't want to elongate the drill hole for the rivnut) I guess I could of used my 90 degree drill, but why? Plus you got handles on the rivnut tool. We're talking 5 rivets I think.
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I copied Rocker Dan's set up. Did both lower panels and disc brake guard. Harbor Freight riv nut kit with aluminium riv nuts with stainless steel fasteners. Makes oil change, chain case, clutches and brake maintenance a breeze. 7,000+ miles and no issues!
RAMSOMAIR
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Tilt sled up with milk crate under ski. Gives plenty of access to drill and rivet.
Remove the belt guard rivets while you're at it.
Doc Harley
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Hmmmm.....I hate to ask. Lol....which are those?Remove the belt guard rivets while you're at it.
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I bought M5 steel riv-nuts and stainless steel flanged socket head cap screws for mine (and an installation tool). I had to buy 2 lengths of the riv-nuts because of material thicknesses that they had to go through.
You will see them if you remove your secondary. In the 2 o'clock position if my memory serves me. There's 2 rivets right there and the guard is held on by machine screws on the other end which are fine.Hmmmm.....I hate to ask. Lol....which are those?
Doc Harley
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You will see them if you remove your secondary. In the 2 o'clock position if my memory serves me. There's 2 rivets right there and the guard is held on by machine screws on the other end which are fine.
Yep yep
Doc Harley
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Ok, so drilled all the rivots out. Stupid question time. Why not just run all 10/24 inserts, why step up the last six to 1/4 20???
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