sportster64
Pro
As many have said, the two Allen headed bolts that hold the exhaust y pipes to the tunnel aRe a bear to get out, I was able to use an easy out to get one out after the Allen bolt stripped, but the other one actually broke the nut off from under the tunnel, my question is..
I haven't gotten the skid out to inspect under there, but what part was that nut welded too, and can I reach up under the tunnel and just thread a new nut onto a new bolt when I put exhaust back together ?
Or, do I have to order the part the nut was attached to ?
I haven't gotten the skid out to inspect under there, but what part was that nut welded too, and can I reach up under the tunnel and just thread a new nut onto a new bolt when I put exhaust back together ?
Or, do I have to order the part the nut was attached to ?
sportster64
Pro
Why would anyone use an Allen bolt head on an exhaust bolt that rusts so tight !
Winderallday!
VIP Member
The bracket the nuts are installed to is under the tunnel (37) and is stainless steel as I recall, it is riveted to the tunnel with about 10-12 rivets. The nuts are projection welded to the bracket. You could likely use a loose nut in place of the weld nut, but could be a bear to get in there to tighten it. Probably best to tack weld a new nut in place of the broken nut or if it's not buggered up, tack weld it back on. This would mean taking the bracket out of the tunnel to work on it by removing all the rivets. If you have a pneumatic rivet gun, this bracket is not so bad to re-install from the top side. When the bolts bugger up like that, I generally took this bracket out the same way and dropped the y pipes with bracket to deal with it.
sportster64
Pro
I was hoping to just be able to reach up in there and hold a nut on till tight, worse case, drop back of skid to give more working room on my lift, to hold the nut under the skid.
Well see how it goes I guess if I have to drop the skid to drill out the bracket, might as well at least try just threading a nut on before I drill it.
Well see how it goes I guess if I have to drop the skid to drill out the bracket, might as well at least try just threading a nut on before I drill it.
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sportster64
Pro
I was able to Re-use my titanium y pipes, did I read on hear I should not use the copper donuts with the titanium?
Winderallday!
VIP Member
The titanium pipes are definitely more brittle than stainless pipes, if they are in tact, I would opt for the OEM donuts in this case to allow for some give, not saying copper should not be used, just my 2c.
The OEM donuts have improved over time, they have an embedded wire mesh inside them that makes them stand up longer than the ones without the mesh. If not already done, the round spacer that sets the closed position of the clamps over the donuts can be ground down 1-2mm or so to give the clamps some additional bite, as over time the clamps can start to rotate and rattle when the donuts start to degrade.
Cheers.
hibshman25
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The titanium pipes hold up fine if you keep on top of donuts. Once oem donuts deteriorate then the pipes become vulnerable. I feel since copper donuts will not deteriorate the life of the titanium pipes is much longer.
Teamblue4
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Don't use copper use the OEM
sportster64
Pro
Is there a part number I should be using for the newest oem donuts ?
Versus the old style oem
Versus the old style oem
Winderallday!
VIP Member
Don't think Yam supplies anything but the improved version based on my past experience, there is a superceded part number and the old style phased out.
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Snowman11
Expert
Do you think that titanium and copper would be a bad choice ? , Mine is all original 4400 miles and no leaks (yet) I've got it torn down for reg maintenance anyway and ordered the flange repair kit comes with donuts ... Thinking of just useig the copper with the original pipes ... And saving the flange kit for when needed seeing how I got a good price on the kit ... Or should I just chop the flanges and go with the SS ones with copper donuts and have no more worries ?
Winderallday!
VIP Member
If you plan to keep the sled, then this may be the time to use the SS kit and copper donuts, saves another tear down in the future. Would not use copper with the titanium at this point, just my opinion.
If you keep an eye/ear on the the condition of the new OEM donuts with the Titanium pipes, the pipes could last quite some time. If there is no hint of splitting or wear on the Titanium pipes now, no reason to think they won't stand up longer.
It's when the donuts totally fail and clamps become loose that the titanium pipes are compromised in my experience. Really no right/wrong decisions, just what you are comfortable with doing at this point.
Snowman11
Expert
Finnaly got to have some good tear down time last night.... Despite stall test being good, when I got to the donuts , 3 of the clamps had spun around and we're loose ... One donut completely gone , clamps were a b*tch go get off .. soaked I'm in penetrating oil for a few hours .. deff going to replace those bolts and use anti seize .... But as many others have stated ... Two Allen bolts witch hold the y pipes are toast , soon as I pounded in the Allen socket they instatly stripped ... Ughhh.. I'm thinking just take the flex pipes off and I'll have room to get new donuts in with out having to move the rest of the exhaust , flanges looked in really good shape , I caught it in time .. trying to upload photos , website is giving me a hassle saying they are too large
sportster64
Pro
Yes, my donuts were all relatively good looking except the right side one, oil tank side, clamp was completely loose, and donut missing in action.
If your pipes are still good, you might want to consider just sliding the whole exhaust back, instead of trying to pull the y pipes fwd, some have said the separation of the y pipes and the rear exhaust can be tuff.
Edit, I see your looking to take the flex pipes off instead, yes, that would work as well, because you won't have to separate y pipe and rear exhaust
If your pipes are still good, you might want to consider just sliding the whole exhaust back, instead of trying to pull the y pipes fwd, some have said the separation of the y pipes and the rear exhaust can be tuff.
Edit, I see your looking to take the flex pipes off instead, yes, that would work as well, because you won't have to separate y pipe and rear exhaust
Snowman11
Expert
... Moving flex pipes is a no go... Can't compress them enough to get enough room so they slide out ... Now I'm thinking , drill out rivets for y pipe bracket unbolt the muffler and slide the whole system back ... As I've heard sliding y pipes inside of the silencer can be real tight and rather not touch it ... Just drill onbolt and slide the whole system back .. then re rivet the plate and bolt the back end back up ... Then I won't have to touch the damn Allen bolts that have stripped or try to loosen the y pipes from the rear
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