sportster64
Pro
If you remove the stripped Allen heads, you can then unbolt the muffler at rear of sled , and slide the whole assembly back, without drilling out the bracket, either way, a pita, I took the route of drilling and ez out the Allen heads, that's how I ended up snapping the welded nut off on the bottom bracket. Chasing a rabbit down a whole as they say..
I'm gonna try just dropping the rear of the skid, so hopefully I can then thread a nut onto where the one broke off the bracket, otherwise I'm taking the whole skid out, which I belive from what they say isn't too bad as long as I remove the transfer rod bolt first. I realize I won't be able to unthread it without going under the skid to manually put a wrench to hold the nut. But. Ain't any worse solution than yamaha using Allen heads in rusty exhast
Why not a hex bolt in here yamaha, or stainless hardware!
I'm gonna try just dropping the rear of the skid, so hopefully I can then thread a nut onto where the one broke off the bracket, otherwise I'm taking the whole skid out, which I belive from what they say isn't too bad as long as I remove the transfer rod bolt first. I realize I won't be able to unthread it without going under the skid to manually put a wrench to hold the nut. But. Ain't any worse solution than yamaha using Allen heads in rusty exhast
Why not a hex bolt in here yamaha, or stainless hardware!
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Winderallday!
VIP Member
One could try to remove the flex pipes (headers) from the engine itself, you need a universal swivel for your ratchet and the bolts normally come out without an issue. But optimally you need to back out the y-pipes from the flex pipes to get the necessary access to install new donuts, and what Snowman11 said about drilling out all the y-pipe bracket rivets would do the job especially if bolt heads are stripped and you don't want to eff with separating the y-pipes from the silencer. Pull the 4 bolts holding the silencer to the frame, and pull the works back far enough to slip the donuts in place. A pneumatic rivet gun is your friend in this situation.
Snowman11
Expert
Yeah I got the flex pipes unbolted from the engine , but couldn't compress the damn things enough to get them to slide out .... I saw a post from years ago on the original "y pipe" fix post and one user stated he had drilled the bracket and instead of re rivetig it .. he let it hang , his thought was to let the system flex more to maybe help with donut life ... He updated 3000 miles later and said it was still rock solid and donuts and flex pipes all in good shape .. It sounded ok to me , but now the only thing holding the system up is muffler bolts and the manifold bolts into the motor .. they may "flex" with the flex pipes but that could put alot of stress on those bolts in the head of the engine
Snowman11
Expert
I agree with sportster64 , dropping the skid can be a pita . And Yamaha skimped on the hardware In the exhaust .. titanium pipes but dollar store hardware!! Assuming they didn't intend for the donuts to premature wear and have to be taken appart ... What happen to the ole ball and socket with springs from years ago like on my two smoker ... Takes a college degree to break it ...a high school degree to fix it
Snowman11
Expert
Finnaly !!! Tryed to easy out the Allen bolts .. ended up snapping extractor off in the bolt after heat AND lube !! So took 5 min and drilled out the rivets , unbolted the rear and came out like butter !! Should have done this In the first place .. f*ck them allen heads .. will litteraly take me 5 min to re rivet .. sportster64 any luck with yours ?
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Teamblue4
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just remove the engine mount bolts, move engine forward.
Snowman11
Expert
I like the concept but with all the hoses and wires on this thing , how far would I really get ?just remove the engine mount bolts, move engine forward.
Winderallday!
VIP Member
Finnaly !!! Tryed to easy out the Allen bolts .. ended up snapping extractor off in the bolt after heat AND lube !! So took 5 min and drilled out the rivets , unbolted the rear and came out like butter !! Should have done this In the first place .. f*ck them allen heads .. will litteraly take me 5 min to re rivet .. sportster64 any luck with yours ?
These pics bring back a lot of memories some good, some not so good! lol.
Replace the allen pan head bolts with flanged hex head bolts, much better results down the road.
I have wrenched on several Apex for this issue, and if allen head bolts don't budge, I automatically drill the heads off, drill the rivets out of the bracket and separate the y-pipes from silencer, then drop the whole y-pipe disaster out to work on the bench.
I found removing the remainder of the bolts in the bracket not a big problem, no easy outs etc. I used penetrating oil, then used a vise grip on the end of the bolt sticking through the nut and backed it out of the bottom of the nut instead of the top of the nut.
Teamblue4
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You only need to move the engine less than a 1/4" to get the flex pipes out, It works for me.I like the concept but with all the hoses and wires on this thing , how far would I really get ?
Snowman11
Expert
Yeah they are a real pita...I'm not gunna mess with those Allen bolts I'm not taking the braket out to f with them .. just ghnns re rivet once my donuts come in and be done with it , if I have to do it again I'll just drill those rivets again , I've got a air rivet gun and a large supply of rivets courtesy of my time working on aircraft .. I'm hopeing the copper donuts last longer than I have the sled 4-5 seasons ..
sportster64
Pro
Snowman, one thing to consider, I believe you are using the titanium y pipes still ?
If so, some have said not to use the copper with the titanium, only copper with the stainless, though from what I have asked , the jury is mixed.
Just to add more to the donut debacle.
If so, some have said not to use the copper with the titanium, only copper with the stainless, though from what I have asked , the jury is mixed.
Just to add more to the donut debacle.
Snowman11
Expert
I've heard this as well .. seems to be mixed reviews on copper and titanium ... Yes my "y's" are in great shape still no cracks nothing .. dont look real thin, I don't feel like doing this again .. hence the copper , but I don't feel the need to do the flanges seeing how they are in nice shape still , also don't want to use OEM donuts as that's the problem to begin with ..it's a crap shoot eaither way I guessSnowman, one thing to consider, I believe you are using the titanium y pipes still ?
If so, some have said not to use the copper with the titanium, only copper with the stainless, though from what I have asked , the jury is mixed.
Just to add more to the donut debacle.
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brother just tore into an 03 rx that some one did not put the mid mount in. broke all 4 flex pipes and the rear muffler mount shattered on the sled with no obvious signs of a hit on the rear. pipes also broken at muffler as well. it had been converted to a mono skid at some point. we thought it was just donuts when we started to tear it down to mod it to match the sled it will be replacing for my brother.
Snowman11
Expert
Wow I guess that awnswrs the question on keeping the mid mount intact .. Yamaha does some stupid stuff , but they do it for a reason,brother just tore into an 03 rx that some one did not put the mid mount in. broke all 4 flex pipes and the rear muffler mount shattered on the sled with no obvious signs of a hit on the rear. pipes also broken at muffler as well. it had been converted to a mono skid at some point. we thought it was just donuts when we started to tear it down to mod it to match the sled it will be replacing for my brother.
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true enough.
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